Fit Suspension & Brake Modifications Threads discussing suspension and brake related modifications for the Honda Fit

DIY- Monroe Rear Air Shocks w/Photos

  #161  
Old 01-17-2014, 05:21 PM
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 53
I wanted to thank Manxman for all the instructions on this. I took a step beyond and had a local shop replace the lower end bolt hole to fit the Honda Fit specs. You can see the pictures on my FS thread.

FS: Monroe Air Shocks
 
  #162  
Old 09-03-2014, 09:47 PM
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: California
Posts: 5
Exclamation Can't drive my car for days because of a stupid bolt

Warning if your Fit spent time in northern climates:
Buy yourself an extra pair of dirt-cheap lower flange bolts (part# 90176-SFA-010) before you start!


The story:

My GD3 reached 90k miles, stock shocks were getting weak, and it was finally time to do this upgrade for hauling stuff.

Passenger side stock shock came out smoothly; the driver side... not so much: the bottom flange bolt rusted solid into the shock bushing. I tried loosening with PBlaster, but there was no direct access to the rusted joint. I tried cranking on the bolt, but the bushing is encased in rubber, and the whole thing would turn. After two nights wrestling with this, enough was enough.

I dremel cut the lowermost sleeve in two, carved the rubber off with a knife, then hacked the bejeezers out of the inner bushing with the dremel. (note to the wise, use metal cutting disks, don't waste time with other bits) Eventually, the bushing gave up the ghost and I could take out the bolt.


The Monroes went in easily, but when it came time to put the flange bolt back, I found the rusted one's threads were also damaged from my excessive use of the breaker bar. No problem, it's just a bolt...?

Apparently, these bolts (part# 90176-SFA-010) are M10-1.25 x 73, which is an unusual size no hardware store carries. Honda dealers don't stock these either, and they must be shipped from the Ohio warehouse to the dealer, and then to you. Lead time: for freakin evah.

Don't be like me - buy your bolts first, as insurance.
 
  #163  
Old 02-02-2015, 05:52 PM
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 2
Thanks for the write-up on this! I'll be towing a little 4x4 trailer with my 08 GD3 so I went ahead with this shock upgrade. I ran each line individually through the abs sensor bulkhead into the cabin (comes through the floor right behind the back seat on either side), haven't decided exactly where I'm going to mount them yet.

Thank goodness I read through this thread all the way first!

Originally Posted by tommytomato View Post
Warning if your Fit spent time in northern climates:
Buy yourself an extra pair of dirt-cheap lower flange bolts (part# 90176-SFA-010) before you start!
I came across this and having dealt with a sticky bolt before that had to be replaced, I ordered a pair of these up. Took about 2 weeks to get them and it turned out to be a good thing!

Originally Posted by tommytomato View Post
My GD3 reached 90k miles, stock shocks were getting weak, and it was finally time to do this upgrade for hauling stuff.

Passenger side stock shock came out smoothly; the driver side... not so much: the bottom flange bolt rusted solid into the shock bushing.
I'm at 75K - driver side came out nice and smooth first and then I went to the passenger side... a little stuck to say the least. Breaker bar wouldn't touch it, broke a 1/2" socket on it, proceeded to strip it with a 3/8". Through this process I was applying PB blaster, heating with a torch, freezing with freezing spray, hammering, nothing. Then I cut the sides of the bolt head off to make a flat surface and went at it with vice grips. Moved a little and then stopped again. Proceeded to do this...

Originally Posted by tommytomato View Post
I dremel cut the lowermost sleeve in two, carved the rubber off with a knife, then hacked the bejeezers out of the inner bushing with the dremel. (note to the wise, use metal cutting disks, don't waste time with other bits) Eventually, the bushing gave up the ghost and I could take out the bolt.
But even with the inner bushing hacked up, and with lots of hammering, the thing wouldn't budge. Sawzall with a bi-metal blade finally did the trick, sliced the bushing out at both sides (the bolt would turn a little so I knew I could just back the threaded part out) - probably should have just started there instead of hacking the shock off... Went ahead and put the new bolts on both sides - smeared up with anti-seize this time!!!

Time spent - about 90 min total if you don't count the 7.5 hrs I spent on one bolt. Glad to have that over with and happy that she is ready to do some haulin!

Thanks for the tip Tommy!!
 
  #164  
Old 02-04-2015, 09:47 PM
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ashland City
Posts: 68
My Air shocks should be in by the end of the week. Thanks to all who posted real experiences. Not so much thanks to those who never have but still had a negative opinion.

I'll post my experience after installing.
 
  #165  
Old 02-04-2015, 11:55 PM
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,508
Originally Posted by breadtrk View Post
My Air shocks should be in by the end of the week. Thanks to all who posted real experiences. Not so much thanks to those who never have but still had a negative opinion.

I'll post my experience after installing.

I am also doing an install of the Monroe Max Air MA811 on my GK 2015. I have a few posts in my main thread with pictures. I hope to install them soon I'm still waiting for a few small parts and some good weather to install them. my intent is to haul a small Sure-Trac 5 by 8 utility trailer.
 
  #166  
Old 04-29-2015, 07:04 PM
New Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Winston Salem NC
Posts: 7
Question ? about single air lines on air shocks

Getting ready to put Monroe air shocks on wife 2007 Fit . Reading post , it look like single lines are the way to go . Is there a single air fill value or do you close off one side of the dual value that come with kit.
Thanks for any help --don t want to get in trouble with the wife --LOL
 
  #167  
Old 04-29-2015, 09:37 PM
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,508
Originally Posted by jimzman View Post
Getting ready to put Monroe air shocks on wife 2007 Fit . Reading post , it look like single lines are the way to go . Is there a single air fill value or do you close off one side of the dual value that come with kit.
Thanks for any help --don t want to get in trouble with the wife --LOL
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...orber-mod.html

My thread is for the GK 2015, but what you seek for a valve...you are better off with a flow control.

It can be found on amazon, dont have link.

https://www.mettleair.com/store/ptc/...-npt-male.html
 

Last edited by Bassguitarist1985; 04-30-2015 at 09:05 AM.
  #168  
Old 04-29-2015, 09:47 PM
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 2
Originally Posted by jimzman View Post
Getting ready to put Monroe air shocks on wife 2007 Fit . Reading post , it look like single lines are the way to go . Is there a single air fill value or do you close off one side of the dual value that come with kit.
Thanks for any help --don t want to get in trouble with the wife --LOL
All I used from the kit was the air line. Single line on each side going to a compression fitting (with a bulkhead adapter so I could mount it) and a tank valve. I used these pieces...

compression fitting with bulkhead adapter compression fitting with bulkhead adapter

tank valve
 
  #169  
Old 04-30-2015, 01:10 AM
13fit's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Ft.Hood TX // LaCrosse WI
Posts: 1,911
The reason for separating is so you dont see massive bodyroll as the air shoots to the unloaded side, possibly causing major handling issues.

The separation severely improves safety. Safety is also a plus!
 
  #170  
Old 04-30-2015, 09:13 AM
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,508
And here is the flow control I was talking about. It fits the stock air line kit the Monroe's come with. I keep it wide open when inflating, then I nearly close it to restrict (or shut off completely) air flow between the shocks.


In my first video, at about 3:30 I demonstrate why you need this flow control valve, the body roll will be HORRENDOUS! Closing the valve prevents this and allows you to keep one Schrader valve for both air shocks.













MettleAir MSCA1/8-1PK Push to Connect Inline/Inflow Speed Control Fitting, 1/8" OD: Other Products: Amazon.com: Home Improvement MettleAir MSCA1/8-1PK Push to Connect Inline/Inflow Speed Control Fitting, 1/8" OD: Other Products: Amazon.com: Home Improvement


 
  #171  
Old 04-30-2015, 06:26 PM
New Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Winston Salem NC
Posts: 7
Smile Big Thanks

Thanks for the advice on running single line , a BIG HELP
 
  #172  
Old 05-01-2015, 12:40 AM
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,508
Originally Posted by jimzman View Post
Thanks for the advice on running single line , a BIG HELP
You are very welcome!!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Yosemite
2nd Generation GE8 Specific For Sale/WTB Used Parts Sub-Forum
11
01-20-2015 10:48 PM
mkok
1st Generation (GD 01-08)
6
03-30-2014 12:40 PM
mrphilip
SoCal Classifieds
9
10-22-2013 08:46 AM
mrphilip
2nd Generation GE8 Specific For Sale/WTB Used Parts Sub-Forum
9
10-07-2013 09:34 PM
JoshMorrison
Fit DIY: Repair & Maintenance
7
08-16-2013 07:34 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: DIY- Monroe Rear Air Shocks w/Photos


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.