DIY- Monroe Rear Air Shocks w/Photos
I wanted to thank Manxman for all the instructions on this. I took a step beyond and had a local shop replace the lower end bolt hole to fit the Honda Fit specs. You can see the pictures on my FS thread.
FS: Monroe Air Shocks
FS: Monroe Air Shocks
Warning if your Fit spent time in northern climates:
Buy yourself an extra pair of dirt-cheap lower flange bolts (part# 90176-SFA-010) before you start!
The story:
My GD3 reached 90k miles, stock shocks were getting weak, and it was finally time to do this upgrade for hauling stuff.
Passenger side stock shock came out smoothly; the driver side... not so much: the bottom flange bolt rusted solid into the shock bushing. I tried loosening with PBlaster, but there was no direct access to the rusted joint. I tried cranking on the bolt, but the bushing is encased in rubber, and the whole thing would turn. After two nights wrestling with this, enough was enough.
I dremel cut the lowermost sleeve in two, carved the rubber off with a knife, then hacked the bejeezers out of the inner bushing with the dremel. (note to the wise, use metal cutting disks, don't waste time with other bits) Eventually, the bushing gave up the ghost and I could take out the bolt.

The Monroes went in easily, but when it came time to put the flange bolt back, I found the rusted one's threads were also damaged from my excessive use of the breaker bar. No problem, it's just a bolt...?
Apparently, these bolts (part# 90176-SFA-010) are M10-1.25 x 73, which is an unusual size no hardware store carries. Honda dealers don't stock these either, and they must be shipped from the Ohio warehouse to the dealer, and then to you. Lead time: for freakin evah.
Don't be like me - buy your bolts first, as insurance.
Buy yourself an extra pair of dirt-cheap lower flange bolts (part# 90176-SFA-010) before you start!
The story:
My GD3 reached 90k miles, stock shocks were getting weak, and it was finally time to do this upgrade for hauling stuff.
Passenger side stock shock came out smoothly; the driver side... not so much: the bottom flange bolt rusted solid into the shock bushing. I tried loosening with PBlaster, but there was no direct access to the rusted joint. I tried cranking on the bolt, but the bushing is encased in rubber, and the whole thing would turn. After two nights wrestling with this, enough was enough.
I dremel cut the lowermost sleeve in two, carved the rubber off with a knife, then hacked the bejeezers out of the inner bushing with the dremel. (note to the wise, use metal cutting disks, don't waste time with other bits) Eventually, the bushing gave up the ghost and I could take out the bolt.

The Monroes went in easily, but when it came time to put the flange bolt back, I found the rusted one's threads were also damaged from my excessive use of the breaker bar. No problem, it's just a bolt...?
Apparently, these bolts (part# 90176-SFA-010) are M10-1.25 x 73, which is an unusual size no hardware store carries. Honda dealers don't stock these either, and they must be shipped from the Ohio warehouse to the dealer, and then to you. Lead time: for freakin evah.
Don't be like me - buy your bolts first, as insurance.
Thanks for the write-up on this! I'll be towing a little 4x4 trailer with my 08 GD3 so I went ahead with this shock upgrade. I ran each line individually through the abs sensor bulkhead into the cabin (comes through the floor right behind the back seat on either side), haven't decided exactly where I'm going to mount them yet.
Thank goodness I read through this thread all the way first!
I came across this and having dealt with a sticky bolt before that had to be replaced, I ordered a pair of these up. Took about 2 weeks to get them and it turned out to be a good thing!
I'm at 75K - driver side came out nice and smooth first and then I went to the passenger side... a little stuck to say the least. Breaker bar wouldn't touch it, broke a 1/2" socket on it, proceeded to strip it with a 3/8". Through this process I was applying PB blaster, heating with a torch, freezing with freezing spray, hammering, nothing. Then I cut the sides of the bolt head off to make a flat surface and went at it with vice grips. Moved a little and then stopped again. Proceeded to do this...
But even with the inner bushing hacked up, and with lots of hammering, the thing wouldn't budge. Sawzall with a bi-metal blade finally did the trick, sliced the bushing out at both sides (the bolt would turn a little so I knew I could just back the threaded part out) - probably should have just started there instead of hacking the shock off... Went ahead and put the new bolts on both sides - smeared up with anti-seize this time!!!
Time spent - about 90 min total if you don't count the 7.5 hrs I spent on one bolt.
Glad to have that over with and happy that she is ready to do some haulin!
Thanks for the tip Tommy!!
Thank goodness I read through this thread all the way first!
I dremel cut the lowermost sleeve in two, carved the rubber off with a knife, then hacked the bejeezers out of the inner bushing with the dremel. (note to the wise, use metal cutting disks, don't waste time with other bits) Eventually, the bushing gave up the ghost and I could take out the bolt.
Time spent - about 90 min total if you don't count the 7.5 hrs I spent on one bolt.
Glad to have that over with and happy that she is ready to do some haulin! Thanks for the tip Tommy!!
My Air shocks should be in by the end of the week. Thanks to all who posted real experiences. Not so much thanks to those who never have but still had a negative opinion.
I'll post my experience after installing.
I'll post my experience after installing.
I am also doing an install of the Monroe Max Air MA811 on my GK 2015. I have a few posts in my main thread with pictures. I hope to install them soon I'm still waiting for a few small parts and some good weather to install them. my intent is to haul a small Sure-Trac 5 by 8 utility trailer.
Getting ready to put Monroe air shocks on wife 2007 Fit . Reading post , it look like single lines are the way to go . Is there a single air fill value or do you close off one side of the dual value that come with kit.
Thanks for any help --don t want to get in trouble with the wife --LOL
Thanks for any help --don t want to get in trouble with the wife --LOL
Getting ready to put Monroe air shocks on wife 2007 Fit . Reading post , it look like single lines are the way to go . Is there a single air fill value or do you close off one side of the dual value that come with kit.
Thanks for any help --don t want to get in trouble with the wife --LOL
Thanks for any help --don t want to get in trouble with the wife --LOL
My thread is for the GK 2015, but what you seek for a valve...you are better off with a flow control.
It can be found on amazon, dont have link.
https://www.mettleair.com/store/ptc/...-npt-male.html
Last edited by Bassguitarist1985; Apr 30, 2015 at 09:05 AM.
Getting ready to put Monroe air shocks on wife 2007 Fit . Reading post , it look like single lines are the way to go . Is there a single air fill value or do you close off one side of the dual value that come with kit.
Thanks for any help --don t want to get in trouble with the wife --LOL
Thanks for any help --don t want to get in trouble with the wife --LOL
tank valve
The reason for separating is so you dont see massive bodyroll as the air shoots to the unloaded side, possibly causing major handling issues.
The separation severely improves safety. Safety is also a plus!
The separation severely improves safety. Safety is also a plus!
And here is the flow control I was talking about. It fits the stock air line kit the Monroe's come with. I keep it wide open when inflating, then I nearly close it to restrict (or shut off completely) air flow between the shocks.
In my first video, at about 3:30 I demonstrate why you need this flow control valve, the body roll will be HORRENDOUS! Closing the valve prevents this and allows you to keep one Schrader valve for both air shocks.
MettleAir MSCA1/8-1PK Push to Connect Inline/Inflow Speed Control Fitting, 1/8" OD: Other Products: Amazon.com: Home Improvement
In my first video, at about 3:30 I demonstrate why you need this flow control valve, the body roll will be HORRENDOUS! Closing the valve prevents this and allows you to keep one Schrader valve for both air shocks.
Well, to resurrect an old thread, has anyone since done this to a GD, and if so, what shocks did you use? It appears the MA811 from Monroe is discontinued and every place I've inquired states they're unavailable. One of the MA811s I installed years ago blew out and I'm trying to spec out an option for replacement.
Help?
Help?
Well, to resurrect an old thread, has anyone since done this to a GD, and if so, what shocks did you use? It appears the MA811 from Monroe is discontinued and every place I've inquired states they're unavailable. One of the MA811s I installed years ago blew out and I'm trying to spec out an option for replacement.
Help?
Help?
Check my 2017 thread. Post 301 and on shows the MA809s installed.
Can you describe the inconsistent placement any further? Since it matters for this application, I'd consider buying several in the hope that some of them are arranged the way I need, and returning the rest.
Thanks for the valuable pictures and documentation!
Thanks. I see you went down to 3mm spacers and also noticed your comment about the inconsistency of Monroe's placement of air stems.
Can you describe the inconsistent placement any further? Since it matters for this application, I'd consider buying several in the hope that some of them are arranged the way I need, and returning the rest.
Thanks for the valuable pictures and documentation!
Can you describe the inconsistent placement any further? Since it matters for this application, I'd consider buying several in the hope that some of them are arranged the way I need, and returning the rest.
Thanks for the valuable pictures and documentation!
The pictures say it all. I actually removed the spacers all together, but one stem is far closer than the other, likely the inconsistent mounting of the stem by Monroe. You can use the smallest spacer i linked to and it will be more than enough for clearance. Any wider than OEM size 185/55R16 though will need larger spacers
I just installed MA777s, since MA811 and MA809 shocks are no longer available.
The MA777's require a 12mm outer diameter, 10mm inner diameter 1.5" lower eye mount spacer. For spacer/bushing I used Grainger sleeve bearing part #786Y65 x1 and #786Y68 x2 per lower mount. Such spacers are difficult to find.
I also found them a bit tight fit and ground away maybe the little bit of the upper, circular mount (for the spring) that protruded towards the shock and tire. I found the spring works fine without that little fraction ground away (spring never touched that part) and the air shock has more free space to operate.
The shocks work good so far and are similar to Monroe's OEM replacement shock for compressed and extended length. I hope this info is helpful for those running air shocks.
I just posted this on another thread about MA811s being discontinued.
The MA777's require a 12mm outer diameter, 10mm inner diameter 1.5" lower eye mount spacer. For spacer/bushing I used Grainger sleeve bearing part #786Y65 x1 and #786Y68 x2 per lower mount. Such spacers are difficult to find.
I also found them a bit tight fit and ground away maybe the little bit of the upper, circular mount (for the spring) that protruded towards the shock and tire. I found the spring works fine without that little fraction ground away (spring never touched that part) and the air shock has more free space to operate.
The shocks work good so far and are similar to Monroe's OEM replacement shock for compressed and extended length. I hope this info is helpful for those running air shocks.
I just posted this on another thread about MA811s being discontinued.
Last edited by seattleguy; Aug 30, 2023 at 05:26 PM.
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