Sorry I've been out of the scene for a while and don't remember most of the things with those cars anymore...

I did both intake and exhaust on the cam swap in my driveway, from what I remember it was very easy, no problem with space. I had unorthodox cam gears and it had been well documented what to set them at. I don't remember now what that was tho sorry...

I would not use the teflon, it is not needed IMO.

 

excellent.

thanks!

 

I notice that when I depress the clutch at idle, the change in sound that occurs from the throwout bearing being engaged is not instant. There is a weird delay that you can hear. Is this the delay valve/damper at work?

 

lcq -

so i recently came into some money... so i think imma do this...

q's:
-how do you prevent the master cylinder from spewing clutch fluid while the lines are being disconnected? depress and hold the clutch in? or nothing?
-where is the bleed valve for the clutch so i can bleed it after the line change?

 

You don't prevent it from spewing fluid. What I did was bled the clutch before starting, to get most of the fluid out of the reservoir, then disconnected the reservoir. I snaked it out, then bench bled the new one, disconnected the reservoir, plugged it, snaked it in, reconnected, bled again.

Then I bled it again, and again, and again, and again. It took a few times to get everything air-free.

 

Good to hear, I got my car going again on Friday, so I will be ordering these parts this week too. As for the fluid I would drain the system before doing anything or it will be a mess. Just look for the bleeder off of the slave and drain with a rubber line attached to it and an oil bucket to drain into.

 

^thanks

i might get a shorter length... but we'll see...

so in the parts list, you're going to run the 90* on the master cylinder, then brake line, then straight adapter onto the slave?

it looks like the slave has a male end... and the adapter has two males as well...

just trying to figure this out...

 

[quote=lcq4blackstar;850361]



If you look at the diagram I posted on the first page the stock master cylinder/hard line has an adapter that is male to female too. If you look at the Russell adapter fittings I posted above you will see they have different ends even though they are both male. This is because the master/slave cylinder use 10mm X 1.0 male end. The new line you will be running uses the -3AN end as this is how all of these lines are made. Whatever length of line you use is up to you, I have measured and the ideal length that I would use is 48" to follow along the firewall and onto the stock configuration along the block. The stock hardline that connects to the slave cylinder is at a 120 degree bend, so the extra 90 I put on the list will go there. There are 120 degree ends but at the minimum size of -6AN...

 

One other thing to consider, if you were to go with male ended line is that you would be at the mercy of whatever angle the 90 degree ends end up when tightened down. With the adapters in place you should be able to line up the 90 at any position and tighten it down, making it better in this application IMO.

 

you've done more research on this than i have...

so you only need one 90* coupler, and one adapter? or do you need two adapters?

 

so you're doing:

master cylinder -> male/male adapter -> 90* coupler -> 90* end on brake line -> straight end on brake line -> slave cylinder

? is that right

or do you need another adapter between the straight end of the brake line and the slave?

 

master-> male/male adapter-> 90 end of line-> 90 coupler one the straight end of the line-> male to male adapter-> slave

 

shibby... ordering.

 

just ordered... should be here early next week, and i should be able to get to them later in the week...

 

hoping to get to this tomorrow...

 

alright yall... hold off on ordering the parts previously listed... the adapters are the wrong size...

the line and the 90* coupler should work fine, but the male-to-male russell adapters are too small for the adapters on the cylinders...

i have another option that i'm going to try but i don't want to post about it until i find out if it works or not... so be patient and we'll hopefully get a parts list put together that will make this work...

good news is that it's not all that hard to change the lines... if you are mechanically minded, and able to get creative in spots, it'll be pretty easy...

more later.

 

Hi Scott,
did you succeed in removing the CDV? My car uses to judder when I release clutch in a shift quicker (or less slow) than usual... and clutch is not abused.

Any chance to get a revised part list?

Stefano

 

i've ordered what i believe to be the correct adapter... but again, i don't want to put it out there until i've confirmed that it works correctly...

i too get that clutch shudder from time to time and just general pedal engagement and feel is crappy... hoping this will do the trick...

after this gets installed then i'll go in and adjust the pedal throw as well so it won't feel as high... but i want to wait until after b/c the ss line is going to change some things for sure...

i'm taking lots of pics and will update as soon as i can!

 

tracking has it arriving tomorrow... i don't think i'll be able to get to it tomorrow... but should be able to get to it this weekend if everything goes well...

 

Oh, that would be great!!! That juddering worried me a bit and I'd like to cure it before starting the car inhalation improvements you depicted so well.

Thank you! (and of course +rep!)