Is there a special training the grease monkeys go through that brainwashes them to hamfist the crap out of everything that hangs off the car? I usually do my own oil changes, but local Honda had an oil change special, so being strapped for time, I had them do it. Few thousand miles later (today), I went to change the oil. The oil pan bolt took a breaker bar to undo. The oil filter was on there so tight, my usual trickeries did not work. I was about to end it's life with a screwdriver but luckily a big pipe wrench worked.

I understand they don't want things to come loose but good grief. The battered filter. Could have been worse:

 

The only time to take a car to the dealer for an oil change is first thing in the morning. They get cars to the flat rate (ie, trained and certified) techs before they start handing tickets to the hourly techs, who are lube and tire folks. Still doesn't guarantee the tech won't tighten the dog snot out of the plug and filter -- since the last thing they want is a comwback -- but they shouldn't crush a filter like that. That's pretty bad.

 

I tighten them all the time pretty tight. I work at a dealer... I have a cup that takes off the filters and put them on with it. Get one of those and u won't have any issues.

 

A spin-on filter like the one in the picture above should only ever be hand tightened. Even then, it's only like a half turn or so past where the gasket stops. If you're leaking after it's that tight, you double gasketed the thing.

 

I think you just made kobudo's point. No nonwarranty dealer work for me ever!!!!!!!

 

There are some engines where hand tight won't do, and the DIYer not having the right tools isn't the tech's concern. I put mine on hand tight and get them off with one of these:

I don't remember if it was Snap-On or Cornwall, but it cost about $10.

 

Which engines? I've had numerous cars, trucks, SUV's of various makes, and none of them "required" the filter to be tightened beyond hand tight + 1/8-1/4 turn. Either case, the Fit does not (should not) require a tool. But that tool would have helped. If I were to take the car in more often, I would probably invest in one.

kobudo - That filter was the result of me trying various tools--c-clamp, 2x4 + clamp, and pipe wrench. Luckily, the pipe wrench worked well.

On another note, I finally switched to synthetic after 80k miles (0w-20). May be placebo, but the engine seems to run quieter/smoother, even at freeway speeds. I keep a detailed log of the MPG, so I'll have to see if it affects it at all.

 

Oh, then that's normal

The only filters I can think of that take extra tightening are the cartridge type filters you see on Minis, BMWs, Toyotas, and more cars all the time. But then, that's more like putting a lid on a housing than spinning on a filter.

And those 3 jaw geared filter wrenches are the best for removing a "normal" filter. Got one at home.

 

The Chrysler 5.7 is a good one; it vibrates a lot. Quite often we'll see them either leaking or loose enough to start leaking soon. Lately chrysler wants them to take the small filter instead of the big one, so more restriction there is just going to add that much more load on the gasket.

But anyway,
1. A good filter wrench isn't going to slip (the geared ones actually grip better when you have to apply real force) off of the filter.
2. A good tech cares more about doing his current job properly than insuring that the next "tech" is able to do the job while lying on his back and without tools. He isn't going to use the wrench to install the filter, but he isn't going to be shy about tightening it.

 

P nut, what brand of oil for the 0w-20 are you using? We use Pennzoil platinum 0w-20 and the engine is quieter on the interstate and when climbing hills. We may try Amsoil 0w-20 for the next oil change. That's a true synthetic.

 

Genuine Honda Oil Filter Wrench:Amazon:Automotive

This it the honda oil filter cup I was referring to. Also they have a torque wrench u use on the filter. With the cup. It is blue handled and is preset to 8.7 lb ft. They also have have another torque wrench just for the drain plug.

Dealerships arent the only ones that do this. Ma and pa shops and lube and tire shops all do the same thing. So if u don't like it or have the right tools to take it off when they do it then just do your own oil changes.

I've been working at a Chevy dealership for 8 years and also worked at a Honda dealership for a little bit. started out as a lube guy and now I'm a gm master tech. I started in quick service and was doing 10+ oil changes a day myself at 6 days a week for 3 years. That's about 9000 oil changes. How many have u done? Sounds like inexperience to me.

 

No justification for over tightening neither filter nor drain plug threads.
Stripped thread is an expensive repair and if it doesn't happen now, it is more likely to happy with routine over tightening. Just use the specified torque setting, it can be much, maybe 20 lb ft for the filter and 25-30 for the nut...

 

Spent some time as a tech myself in a GM shop, been working in a different part of the industry since then. I have thousands of contacts at hundreds of shops -- not just automotive, but marine, diesel, aircraft, machining, and engineering. I'm all for using the right tool for a job, if you have a torquing tool for specific vehicles, go for it.

That said, lube techs are usually not the most experienced or trained people working on cars. And I can guess that if you see fit to use a torque tool, you know that overtighening a filter or plug can be just as bad as leaving it too loose.

 

My oil changes have only been done by my Honda dealership since 2007 when I bought the car. If anything gets damaged - I know who is responsible. I've had no issue with any of the work they've done for the car.

 

The 3 fingered oil filter shown above is labeled Craftsman, it probably came from Sears. I believe mine cost more than $10 8-10 years ago.

The genuine Honda filter link shows a standard looking cup type wrench. $25???. I have one I purchased locally several years ago at one of the chain auto parts places several years ago for about $6. It looks to be better built than the so called genuine Honda filter in the link.

If buying locally take a filter to the store and check the fit. Mine is marked inside 65/14. 65 mm with 14 flutes.

I have tightened filters by hand for many years, never had one come loose. Whatever you do, don't double gasket a filter, that's asking for trouble.

Clifton

 

Every person working in the service department of a dealership and any other professional mechanic has tons more experience than I do, and I know not to over-tighten things.

 

I've tried Amsoil, Mobil1, Penn, and Valvoline synthetics. Results from Blackstone says no real difference between the oils (about 9-10k miles oci). I usually get Valvoline (as in this case), as it's on sale the most. For the filter, I have settled on Napa Gold (Wix), although Amsoil and K&N are also excellent.

 

Sounds like forum-nerd speak to me. More posts = more cred.

Jiffy Lube does more oil changes than your dealership. I guess that puts them up higher on the totem pole.

 

So take it there then

 

the best type of oil filter wrench is the very basic large plier type (looks like a big pipe wrench).


ive pretty much tried them all.


and yah, i only hand tighten my filters snug. ive never had one back out.