Impressive.
Think the general consensus is the Mazda2 is the better racing
chassis.
Good luck!

 

not necessarily. My fit was not fully prepped for STF. If I had stiff coilovers, bigger rear bar, intake, high flow cat and exhaust, I could have easily beat the 2. Those guys were lowered and had the better set up. I know I'm the better driver and it was my first time in the Fit!

 

You killed that slalom the first run! Also what was that noise? Sounded like you were dragging a jack or something. What size ZII are you running?

 

Interesting that you say this. During the 2nd heat that you were working and I took a break, one of the Mazda2 guys came over to talk to me. He mentioned that the guy that was driving the Mazda2 had a completely stock setup. I have to remember that some people's idea of completely stock is 'oh I only have an intake and/or exhaust' or 'Oh I'm only using drag slicks and aftermarket coil-overs'. I didn't dig for details. EVERYONE looked impressive to me as this is all new to me.

 

how's the rear disc setup working for you?

 

Well both 2 look lowered but the faster 2 had the faster tires too. Those hankooks

 

I did a few panic stops right after I did the swap and it was a bit scary. I ended up finding some air in the rears when I replaced the front hoses and flushed the whole system. It felt better after that. The course last week had a fast finish and it felt great. I don't think I've found the limit yet, no ABS engagement on course but the RE71R's are STICKY so I would guess the extra grip there is helping. I was concerned at first a different master cylinder may be necessary but it felt good at autox and while slightly different feeling on the street I think it's all working well.

 

Good to hear...
I'm still thinking about a master cylinder... Nothing soon but I'll be researching it a bit - from what I've seen there isn't a direct replacement for either a larger bore or rear disc one...

 

I did rear disc on my fit and had to do the front setup because it had too much rear braking. The rear brake setup I have is the Fastbrakes kit. Now with the fronts done it is manageable to not lock up the rears too early but still does. I still have oem master cylinder and next step is plumbing the brakes without abs and with an adjustable prop valve. I'll run most braking up front and hardly any in the rear but with the adjustment in case of rain so I could put more in the rear.

 

Didn't the JDM Fit RS come with rear disc? I had started trying to find a part number for a master cylinder out of one of those. It seems there are places to order OEM Japanese parts but figuring out the part number is the hard part. I'm guessing the ports would be on the "wrong" side being RHD, but nothing a few custom bent lines can't fix. Has anybody found a somewhat easy way to figure out JDM OEM part numbers?

 

^ that

10char

 

Ran again today. The course and my driving were not so great. I finished 39th out of 120 raw time. 18th of 120 in PAX. Won STF again but same story as last week, not much real competition in class. The car felt good but I was struggling to find time on the course. Still a fun day!!

 

I tried again last sunday at Devens. I didn't do too well. Here's my fastest dirty

 

If you're using a GoPro I'd recommend getting a remote mic to cut out the wind noise on your video's. It really works well for reviewing your footage and listening to the engine.

Looked like you had some understeer with the sound of inside spin going in certain areas. I'm not sure on your set-up but try to get the car to rotate.

 

Here's one of my co-drivers runs from last week.

 

It only has 205/50/15 Z2 Star Specs on Kosei K6.

Here's some rotation for you. First time with this setup and tires were at 35psi square. I lowered all of them to 31 font 30 rear. The car rotates all right, I would like some koni's.

 

Mark your tires to see what pressure is best. Second if you want more rotation got the time being I would run the rears high. On RE-11A's with F8.5 R10K spring rates I ran F50, R40 psi. Now with RE-71R F10K, R14K spring rates I run F48, R42.

 

If you only have wheels and tires, why are you running stf? Just curious.

 

If the off-set is greater than 6mm over OEM, it's enough to bump you up on that factor alone.

 

Just bump the rear pressures up and you'll get better rotation on the stock suspension.

Because he is technically modded.

H class - Stock Fit
HS (street) - Stock fit with street tires only
STF - Wheels and tires (plus bolt-ons which he doesn't have).

STF doesn't have any restriction on wheel offset only tire width at 225.