Clutch replacement/recommended maintenance
#1
Clutch replacement/recommended maintenance
The car is a USDM 2007 Sport manual (obviously) with 235,000 miles. I'm fairly certain I've done a few firsts on this car after talking with the original owner, he had no idea what I was talking about when I asked if the valves had been adjusted recently (191k), coils packs etc etc...shocking how reliable it was for him really. Anyway pretty safe guess this will be the replacing the original clutch.
My plan is to pay a shop to replace the clutch, my first question is, will this be a straight forward job for a general purpose repair shop? I would prefer to use this shop as they are reliable and allow me to provide my own parts.
Which segues into my second question. I am planning on using rockauto to order the parts i.e. clutch kit. Seems like the Exedy and LUK are the cheapest options, is there a preference for one over the other? I don't do anything more than daily it, and just want to run it into the ground.
Which parts that could/should be replaced via being accessible during the clutch change? Seals for the trans, fluid recommendation for refill...master cylinder/slave, what else? Mounts, which ones? As you can tell I need a bit of hand holding here as I don't know what makes sense, and what would be a waste in terms of spending. I want to drive it as long as possible, but I doubt it is worth replacing things like suspension pieces and so on.
Unrelated, I would appreciate a recommendation on a short shift kit for the car. I have one in my RSX and really like the difference it makes.
Thanks guys!
My plan is to pay a shop to replace the clutch, my first question is, will this be a straight forward job for a general purpose repair shop? I would prefer to use this shop as they are reliable and allow me to provide my own parts.
Which segues into my second question. I am planning on using rockauto to order the parts i.e. clutch kit. Seems like the Exedy and LUK are the cheapest options, is there a preference for one over the other? I don't do anything more than daily it, and just want to run it into the ground.
Which parts that could/should be replaced via being accessible during the clutch change? Seals for the trans, fluid recommendation for refill...master cylinder/slave, what else? Mounts, which ones? As you can tell I need a bit of hand holding here as I don't know what makes sense, and what would be a waste in terms of spending. I want to drive it as long as possible, but I doubt it is worth replacing things like suspension pieces and so on.
Unrelated, I would appreciate a recommendation on a short shift kit for the car. I have one in my RSX and really like the difference it makes.
Thanks guys!
Last edited by 07sport; 03-20-2019 at 11:22 PM. Reason: spelling
#2
Does the clutch slip? Why do you want to replace it?
+1, my 2008 Sport has 237k on the original clutch and it still doesn't slip. Replacing it is on my list of things to do, however, since it's no longer very smooth. I believe it is a fairly straightforward job, and I'm planning on tackling it myself.
I don't know about LUK, looks like it is US-made. Exedy makes a lot of OEM clutches for Japanese cars, and is usually a safe bet. I'd go for OEM, regardless of price (especially considering the OEM clutches last as long as they do!).
Check the CV axle boots - if they're cracked, might want to replace the axles at the same time.
+1, my 2008 Sport has 237k on the original clutch and it still doesn't slip. Replacing it is on my list of things to do, however, since it's no longer very smooth. I believe it is a fairly straightforward job, and I'm planning on tackling it myself.
I don't know about LUK, looks like it is US-made. Exedy makes a lot of OEM clutches for Japanese cars, and is usually a safe bet. I'd go for OEM, regardless of price (especially considering the OEM clutches last as long as they do!).
Check the CV axle boots - if they're cracked, might want to replace the axles at the same time.
#3
Thanks for the reply!
The clutch is slipping without a doubt. On incline low-rpm it will start to climb, and if you give it more than 20-30% power when launching or up shifting it just winds out the motor and the power isn't being delivered under load.
As far as YOUR clutch is concerned, you are probably fine. I see people getting much more than 250k, but I am under the impression that one or more people learned to drive manual on this Fit before I got it...
My experience with the half dozen or so Honda manuals I've owned over the years is that they give you a good bit of warning before they completely give out.
Anyway I'm honestly just at a cross roads, it needs new summer and winter tires coming up, a battery couldn't hurt, new plugs, oil change...even doing most of it myself I am just wondering if I am not punishing myself for no reason. I see 2016 Elantras for under 10k used. Sorry, rambling. Thanks for your input.
The clutch is slipping without a doubt. On incline low-rpm it will start to climb, and if you give it more than 20-30% power when launching or up shifting it just winds out the motor and the power isn't being delivered under load.
As far as YOUR clutch is concerned, you are probably fine. I see people getting much more than 250k, but I am under the impression that one or more people learned to drive manual on this Fit before I got it...
My experience with the half dozen or so Honda manuals I've owned over the years is that they give you a good bit of warning before they completely give out.
Anyway I'm honestly just at a cross roads, it needs new summer and winter tires coming up, a battery couldn't hurt, new plugs, oil change...even doing most of it myself I am just wondering if I am not punishing myself for no reason. I see 2016 Elantras for under 10k used. Sorry, rambling. Thanks for your input.
#4
The car is a USDM 2007 Sport manual (obviously) with 235,000 miles. I'm fairly certain I've done a few firsts on this car after talking with the original owner, he had no idea what I was talking about when I asked if the valves had been adjusted recently (191k), coils packs etc etc...shocking how reliable it was for him really. Anyway pretty safe guess this will be the replacing the original clutch.
My plan is to pay a shop to replace the clutch, my first question is, will this be a straight forward job for a general purpose repair shop? I would prefer to use this shop as they are reliable and allow me to provide my own parts.
Which segues into my second question. I am planning on using rockauto to order the parts i.e. clutch kit. Seems like the Exedy and LUK are the cheapest options, is there a preference for one over the other? I don't do anything more than daily it, and just want to run it into the ground.
Which parts that could/should be replaced via being accessible during the clutch change? Seals for the trans, fluid recommendation for refill...master cylinder/slave, what else? Mounts, which ones? As you can tell I need a bit of hand holding here as I don't know what makes sense, and what would be a waste in terms of spending. I want to drive it as long as possible, but I doubt it is worth replacing things like suspension pieces and so on.
Unrelated, I would appreciate a recommendation on a short shift kit for the car. I have one in my RSX and really like the difference it makes.
Thanks guys!
My plan is to pay a shop to replace the clutch, my first question is, will this be a straight forward job for a general purpose repair shop? I would prefer to use this shop as they are reliable and allow me to provide my own parts.
Which segues into my second question. I am planning on using rockauto to order the parts i.e. clutch kit. Seems like the Exedy and LUK are the cheapest options, is there a preference for one over the other? I don't do anything more than daily it, and just want to run it into the ground.
Which parts that could/should be replaced via being accessible during the clutch change? Seals for the trans, fluid recommendation for refill...master cylinder/slave, what else? Mounts, which ones? As you can tell I need a bit of hand holding here as I don't know what makes sense, and what would be a waste in terms of spending. I want to drive it as long as possible, but I doubt it is worth replacing things like suspension pieces and so on.
Unrelated, I would appreciate a recommendation on a short shift kit for the car. I have one in my RSX and really like the difference it makes.
Thanks guys!
All of the other maintenance items you talk about have no link to the transmission job except maybe it could be easier to see the rear engine mount. All of those maintenance items are good but the could be done before during or after the clutch job with no real link that job.
#5
Thanks for the reply!
The clutch is slipping without a doubt. On incline low-rpm it will start to climb, and if you give it more than 20-30% power when launching or up shifting it just winds out the motor and the power isn't being delivered under load.
As far as YOUR clutch is concerned, you are probably fine. I see people getting much more than 250k, but I am under the impression that one or more people learned to drive manual on this Fit before I got it...
My experience with the half dozen or so Honda manuals I've owned over the years is that they give you a good bit of warning before they completely give out.
Anyway I'm honestly just at a cross roads, it needs new summer and winter tires coming up, a battery couldn't hurt, new plugs, oil change...even doing most of it myself I am just wondering if I am not punishing myself for no reason. I see 2016 Elantras for under 10k used. Sorry, rambling. Thanks for your input.
The clutch is slipping without a doubt. On incline low-rpm it will start to climb, and if you give it more than 20-30% power when launching or up shifting it just winds out the motor and the power isn't being delivered under load.
As far as YOUR clutch is concerned, you are probably fine. I see people getting much more than 250k, but I am under the impression that one or more people learned to drive manual on this Fit before I got it...
My experience with the half dozen or so Honda manuals I've owned over the years is that they give you a good bit of warning before they completely give out.
Anyway I'm honestly just at a cross roads, it needs new summer and winter tires coming up, a battery couldn't hurt, new plugs, oil change...even doing most of it myself I am just wondering if I am not punishing myself for no reason. I see 2016 Elantras for under 10k used. Sorry, rambling. Thanks for your input.
#6
Went with exedy clutch, ams flywheel. new seal, transmission mount.
Also new air filter, IK22 plugs, and oil change.
Did the valve adjust 10k ago, and now with most things seemingly sorted the car runs pretty well.
Thanks for the help!
Also new air filter, IK22 plugs, and oil change.
Did the valve adjust 10k ago, and now with most things seemingly sorted the car runs pretty well.
Thanks for the help!
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