Do you still have the ability to plug in with an OBD scan tool with your swap? If so, try watching the crank sensor readout while cranking, a lot of newer cars, if there is no signal from the crank sensor (won't show RPM while cranking if bad), it won't run the fuel pump or fire the coils.

 

I recently went back to school, so with a tighter budget a change in vehicle was in order.

For the last four years I've been driving a 2007 VW GTI. When I took it over there were 9000 miles on the clock, and yesterday it had seen 69500 miles when I handed over the keys. This was a car I loved with my whole heart and soul, so I was very sad to see it go.

In order to drop my payments I was looking at the usual suspects, Mazda 3, Ford Fiesta, and just to say I did my homework, the Chevy Sonic (although it would have had to REALLY impress me). I've always liked the Fit for what it is, but I for some reason never considered it for myself... I was a bit put off by the 109 hp.

After test driving and subsequently hating the interior build quality of the vehicles listed above, I spotted a 2008 Fit Sport on the lot of a Chevy dealership. The exterior was in perfect condition... the silver paint only had a small scuff on the rear bumper from loading cargo. The interior was god damned impressive considering what its contemporaries had to offer (ugly fabric patterns, cheap feeling plastics that bend when lightly poked, UGLY instrument setups, no manual transmissions in sight, etc), so I decided to test drive it. While it obviously doesn't have the power I had before, I was surprised at the capable performance in second and third. Since I got to test it without a salesman around to bug me, I brought it to one of my favorite twisty back roads. The handling did leave something to be desired... lots of oversteer when throwing it into corners, but all in all it was fun and very very liveable.

Three hours later I got done wrestling with the finance guy, and I said my teary goodbyes to the GTI (ok, maybe not teary, but somber none the less). Ended up with a great rate, and paid $11.5k.

Tonight I had time to take it out for a solo night drive so I could formally get acquainted with my new baby. Going into this, my sights have admittedly been set low. This car is made to be economical. It's got pep, but without major modifications I'll not be winning any races any time soon. The interior is fantastic, and it's got plenty of room to haul my drums.

During the drive I decided I really like the gearbox... The shift throw is a little long, but I'll get used to it. I keep waiting for the turbo that's not there to start pulling in first gear, which is disappointing, but second and third hit the power that's there nicely (although heading toward redline makes a sound of pain rather than pleasure).

I'm extremely happy with my choice. I think I could love this car... Now if I could just fix that god damned oversteer.

edit - Anyone who autocrosses on a budget, pointers for cheap handling mods you used would be excellent... Stiffer sway bar? Modestly lower springs? Stiffer engine mounts? Bang for buck type stuff. I know track day tires are probably not a bad idea either, but we'll see about that.

 

Every thing I have read here is a rear sway bar if you are on a budget. Personally I find that a stab of brakes will counter the under steer, just don't over do it, the tail is very happy to come around on you.

 

I removed the fuel pump from the car and brought it to a shop to have it tested, it works. So I know for a fact the pump is working, some where in the line its not getting power.

No I unfortunately can't run a OBD scan tool, I have a stand alone ECU.

 

Bad relay, bad ground, loose signal wire.. corrosion somewhere

Crank/CAS sensor issues would cause this as well, but are less common.

It can be fun, especially when you have more than one pump.

And the lift pump "dies" which causes your injection pump to cavitate and then you're out ~$1k in fuel pumps.

Ask me how I know lol

 

Well this is interesting. I went to the haltech web site and downloaded the software. I figured even though im not really sure what I will be looking at I thought I would give it a try. The ECU plugged into my laptop the car will start. unplug still doesn't want to start.

 

ECU is not holding your settings, perhaps?

That is not making sense.

When you turn the key with no laptop.. does your dash (Racepak?) light up?

And the motor cranks, no fire?

Plug in the laptop, connect to ECU and the car will crank and fire?

 

So if I understand this correctly, the car starts with the ECU plugged into your laptop and doesn't start if the ECU is on it's own (not plugged into the laptop)? Sounds like you have a bad chip set. Just a SWAG since I don't have the full story and not sure it would help anyway.

But I would ride on DSM's floating/bad ground or missing signal. I think what you just did just eliminated all the other externals - relays, wires, etc. Just my thoughts...

 

exactly. no laptop car just cranks over. laptop plugged in it fires right up.

 

this is why I hate dealing with electrical issues so much. It could be any number of things that is causing the issue

 

I'd hunt for ground. Maybe check ECU ground pins if you have the pin out diagram.

 

Day 3:

I had the day off, so I took this opportunity to hardwire install my radar detector.

I haven't checked if there's a decent DIY on this forum or not, if it would be helpful I can create a thread for this to help others... It's super simple.



The first thing I did was run the cable from my detector (Escort Passport 8500) through the handy guide hole in the rear view mirror brace, and up under the head board. Sorry I don't have pics of this process, I wasn't thinking about it at the time. Just take a credit card and gently push the cable up under the panel.



I guided the cable over to the driver side A pillar and again tucked it behind the panel. When I reached the dash, pulled the cable tight-ish and began running it under the foam door molding.



This leaves very little cable exposed, and definitely looks better than having a big assed exposed cig outlet charger.



Next I ran the cable up under the panel below the fuse box (not through the actual fuse box access door).



I popped the cover panel out from behind next to the mirror adjustment controls and hid the mute switch here, securing it with some velcro. This worked out nicely for the Passport's mute switch, however other brands may or may not fit well. Either way, this is a very discrete, easy to reach spot to hide the mute switch.

Now we get to the fun part. Be sure your car is turned off, keys are out of the ignition, and you may want to disconnect your battery (I didn't but others may advise it). I piggybacked off of the rear power window circuit since it comes on with aux power, and I won't be using them that often. The line its self has its own fuse so using an add-a-circuit wasn't completely necessary, but you could also go this route for a cleaner install.



I pulled the fuse and carefully wound the positive lead to one of the posts, and secured it with electrical tape. This will be compressed pretty tightly once you re-install the fuse, so it won't come loose, but he sure you don't have too much bulk or it wont fit. I had this setup on my previous car for four years without issue.



It should fit back in place with slightly more effort than usual, but you shouldn't be jamming it in. It will fit flush with the rest of the fuses. Now we need to ground the system.




It may be a little difficult to see from these pictures, but up and to the right there's a bolt that connects to the frame. I loosened this a few turns so there was some clearance between the collar of the bolt and the frame. Next I exposed about an inch of copper on the ground lead, and bent it into a hook shape. The hook went between the frame and the bolt, and the bolt was cranked good and tight over it, keeping it secure.

Next I popped the key in, fired the car up and tested the windows. The detector comes on with aux power just as expected.

... Ok I lied... Since this is a new car, last night I was sitting in it for a while fiddling with settings on the radio, and playing with the seats, etc etc... When I tried to fire it up the battery was dead. This gave me a scare. I assumed I may have set off some sort of immobilizer. After a quick check on the battery's eye, I was relieved to see it just needed a jump. After flagging down the neighbor and getting it jumped all was well.

NOTE - This DIY is just to show what I did. Myself and this forum are not responsible if you do some sort of damage to your car. In addition, radar detectors are not an excuse to drive like a retard. They are a protective measure to keep you in check. Don't drive like a jerk.

 

tint and mugen visors.



I also transported an engine, transmission, cross member, a few boxes of misc parts, and 2 backpacks in the back. Ratchet strapped the engine to the rear seat anchors, worked well for a 500 mile trip.

 

Wow, day 3 and you're already all over that thing... I like the way the mute remote fits right in that spare slot. Nice!

I have an 8500 also but I don't have your patience and besides I swap it around with other cars I drive.

If I may revise or add to your NOTE, "Radar detectors, if used properly, are added tools that can enhance your driving pleasure." Good luck and safe driving!

 

WHOA! Huge pictures there bud. And even a bigger load there!

Don't know of any other 1.5li cars that can do these things... Enjoy!

 

Just for weekend shows don't ya know

 

One good thing about the 8500 is that its got an RJ-11 connection. Just get two hard wire kits (they're like $20) and install on both. That guide is pretty much universal. That or hard wire your main ride and keep the cig charger in the other.

 

Bled the brakes yesterday with Motul 600 to top off again this time while at work. While the Fit was in the air, I inspected the chassis, suspension, and drivetrain for anything that needed to be addressed soon. So far with just under 61k on the clock, nothing as of yet. ^.^

 

Changed oil (Mobil1 0-20w) & filter (Nappa silver) ordered 1 A/T filter (hondapartsunlimited $27.19 shipped)
and going w/ Mobil1 A/T fluid, is it I'm getting old or are prices going through the roof? again....
ya i know the answer to that lol.

 

Prices are going through the roof. If you remember $0.05 CocaCola in a 8 oz deposit bottle you are getting old...