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I have 2 other cars, and I’m looking to free up some space. It was easily the most reliable car I’ve ever had, it’s been a lot of fun. Maybe someone else will enjoy it and appreciate some of the goodies/extras I’m looking to send off with it
My headlights were out and I replaced the switch (accidentally breaking the clock spring during that venture) and bulbs, which didn't look burnt out to begin with. Running lights also didn't work, and though the headlight indicator shows up on the dash (despite no headlights) the brights indicator didn't light up It doesn't look like the recall on those wires behind the switch was done on mine, or if it was, they did a good job. My VIN didn't show up when checking for the recall too. Fuses and relay is fine as well.
After checking for bad wires between the driver's side headlight and fuse box and brushed some dirt off the headlight bulb connector, my headlights started working again. Don't know if it was because I wiggled the right wire, or if it was the dirt. But at least I know the issue is downstream from the fusebox and I don't have to go messing with the wires between the switch and fusebox, which is a fresh level of hell. So I can just put in my new clockspring. And put a new H on the airbag casing since mine is worn to crap.
Just washed mine, also apparently after my dad drove it around my right front power window does not move im trying to find out is it switch, motor or the fuse. any tips?
Last edited by 1zyklopus; Nov 10, 2024 at 08:14 PM.
Just washed mine, also apparently after my dad drove it around my right front power window does not move im trying to find out is it switch, motor or the fuse. any tips?
Hi, welcome to the forum!
Hate to ask but did your Dad press the window lockout button? Does the window operate from the passenger door switch? Please note the following is from a US domestic service manual. You can check fuse 17. If good you can check if the driver door switch if faulty by unplugging the driver door master switch and can jumper the blue/white and green/black terminals (assuming they look good) and the window will go down when the ignition is in the Run position. If the window worked jumper the blue/red and green/black and the window should go up. If nothing works it might be a broken wire (in the door flex joint?) or a bad motor/broken mechanism.
Hate to ask but did your Dad press the window lockout button? Does the window operate from the passenger door switch? Please note the following is from a US domestic service manual. You can check fuse 17. If good you can check if the driver door switch if faulty by unplugging the driver door master switch and can jumper the blue/white and green/black terminals (assuming they look good) and the window will go down when the ignition is in the Run position. If the window worked jumper the blue/red and green/black and the window should go up. If nothing works it might be a broken wire (in the door flex joint?) or a bad motor/broken mechanism.
Thanks a lot it was the fuse and it works just fine rn!
Over the weekend I pulled the centre console and did some work in the fuel tank. There were some bits of dirt in the bottom that I sucked out with a syringe/tube combo, and I discovered that the seal around the top of the pump assembly was torn, so that got replaced. I also made a tool for driving the lock ring so I could tighten it properly afterwards: basically bent a flat metal bar into a U shape, screwed it onto a short block of 2x4 to extend the height above the seats, and screwed on a long handle on top. Previously I wasn't able to tighten it fully (there's a yellow paint mark showing the original alignment). I applied a little silicone grease to the threads and to the seal to help things along.
I also installed a small fire extinguisher into the front passenger foot well using a couple of rivet nuts. One of those things I'll hopefully never need to use!
How's this working out for you? Seems like a simple, yet great idea to get a CAI on the cheap and without CEL's. Does it work well? Any issues? Any gains?
This weekend I changed the spark plugs and ignition coils. Need to do a valve adjustment next along with new brakes / rotors and then shocks all the way around. We are about to hit the 200k mile mark.
I had clunking from the rear on the Fit. Turns out to be the sway bar. The install document of the progress tech sway bar shows the isolator bushing right on the bolt heads... mine wore through and it was clunking. So, I designed and printed my own. The indented centering point is from a 3D scan of the perch. It is printed in 3 pieces. Two are in TPU and one in 100% infill PLA (has suprising compression resistance).
I cut up some 1" insulation foam board and dialed in the contours with expanding foam (which was not fun to clean up), wrapping the bottom side with area rug underlayment and the top side with black fleece. A 9/32 tire fits pretty snug, but a worn 4/32 tire slips right in. Room in the wheel for a bottle jack, center cap, and set of lugs- but I'm looking into cutting some foam out from the pass. side and putting something in there. That'll be on the backburner- I'm just glad I got rid of that donut. I don't expect a tire from '06 to last that long with my driving.
Exhaust harshness and road noise from the rear has gotten a lil' better.
Somewhat finished a retrofit of led projectors then aimed them. Not perfect, but good enough for now. Will likely clock them both flat one day. Planning to cast a clear reflector soonish and change out the lenses of these lights. Debating on buying generic shrouds or make my own. Decision decisions.
Last edited by Kis4Ken_GD3; Nov 28, 2025 at 02:19 AM.
Reason: Typo
Hello! I'm a new member and poster! Please have patience with me and I'll try to make changes if needed to this post if anything is out of the ordinary and pointed out to me!
In June of 2025 I found my perfect Fit! 2008 Honda Fit Sport with 63k miles! I flew from Texas to Colorado to pick it up and drive it home after picking up friend in Denver to join me for the drive back. After being introduced to HondaFit4Adventure videos on YouTube and reaching out on Instagram to them, I was inspired to get a Yakima rooftop storage system. (In hindsight I should have went with Thule like HondaFit4Adventure uses to save some headaches, which is part of what this post is about). In January while I was picking up some camp stove fuel at an outdoor store I spied the Yakima system and asked for a price. While steep, it was within budget for the towers, rails and Loadwarrior basket. My troubles had just began!
They said that they had everything except the front clips indicated on the Yakima website. I asked if they could locate the front clips anywhere in DFW, Texas (A metropolitan area of 6.5 million) and I would drive to get them. They could not and offered the name of e-Trailer as a source. I was up against a deadline. It was Thursday and I was planning to move to my current state on Tuesday the following week. That wouldn't have been a problem except that a major storm affecting over half the United States was coming on Saturday with dire predictions.
I called e-Trailer and attempted to order the clips for Next Day Air delivery. The sales agent on the phone was very effective and managed to sell me the clips, towers and rails for my vehicle with the promise that they would go out later in the day for Next Day Air Delivery Friday. This did not occur. Friday saw no activity on the assigned tracking number until 5:30pm when it was scanned for pickup. I thought things might yet be okay. Throughout the day I was able to locate a LoadWarrior Basket used near me and a Thule rooftop Bag. Both at steep discounts off of retail as they were used.
The storm came.. and it had teeth. Rain followed by 2" of sleet turned DFW into an ice skating rink and the DFW Metroplex was 'closed.' What I did not expect to happen came next. By Tuesday everything had thawed out and my package was loaded onto the delivery vehicle. But no trucks were put on road for delivery until Thursday. My Trailer was attached to my Fit fully loaded waiting for the roof rack system. And, I had a roof basket and nothing to attach it to!
When everything arrived I was behind schedule so I put the whole system and rooftop basket into my trailer and headed out of state.
Once I arrived in Wyoming, I went to the local Yakima dealer and offered to pay them to install the system for me, they agreed and found that there were parts missing from the shipment and ordered them on my behalf. What came next was most unexpected, the specified rear clips were too short!
The Yakima dealer contacted Yakima and was working with their product engineers to figure out what the issue was. All measurements and parts were re-checked according to the website and were correct for the 2008 Honda Fit Sport. The Yakima Dealer noticed something though. The measurements were different for the Base Model and the Sport for the same year. This is not correct as you might imagine! Since they are the same Unibody with different trim levels they should be the same. He noticed and applied the measurements of the Base model and everything came together! He has notified Yakima of the website error and it should be revised by the time of this post.
Thanks for reading this saga/drama! It's my first post here!
Ordered new headlights. My BOM hl are 18+ years old. And Mcguires headlight spray
These come in nighthawk black. $272.15 shipped, with bulbs 💡.
The originals look good during the day clear and all but turn 'em on and fractures all over and the orange is more than skin deep if ya know what I mean. The poor things have been wet sanded and buffed 50 times....but
Mcguires has a headlight spay that Scotty did a test on for 3 or more years. His car he used the spray. I think'n he said once a year and they looked like new. But his wife's car was just left alone and they looked pretty bad. So maybe this helps. 🤔 it has UV and plastic conditioners. Scotty on utube he gets so wound up just saying hello, he's a hoot.
