Hello - New to the forums, lots of great information here. I have browsed the posts before, just now joined. I have a 2007 Fit Sport, automatic. 80K miles. On my way home tonight, I began to smell a slight burning odor, but then it dissipated. Then, when I hopped onto the on-ramp to the highway and accelerated, the check engine light came on and it would not shift into 5th. I drove it for a few miles in 4th and exited off to a nearby Autozone. I checked my trans fluid, it was low. I had the tech plug the diagnostic meter in and it also said low fluid and also a possibility of a failed transmission sensor (???). I went ahead and topped off the fluid there and drove another 10 miles home. The check engine light remains on and it will no longer shift into 5th, even when I place it into "S" and paddle shift. Is there hope for a simple fix or am I looking at $$ to repair a fried transmission? Anyone else experience this?

 

Just out of curiosity, have you changed the tranny fluid yet? 85k here and no problems. I've changed it twice so far.

 

There is also an external filter for the A/T behind the battery on the GD3's change that too! if you have not changed the ATF in 80k your prob. worn out/off the friction material on the clutches, not good. You'll be able to tell if the trans. plug is one big glob of black goo when remove it. There may also be a solenoid bad keeping 5th gear from working too.

 

I'm @ 28K and drained and filled twice w/ syn. Amsoil 1st time then Mobile1 and added a trans cooler too.

 

I didn't see any mention of resetting the MIL - this won't go away on its own, and the car will do everything in the computer's power to keep you going while minimizing further damage - which explains the lack of 5th gear. The Autozone readout gave the two most likely causes for the diagnostic code that was set - that either a) the ATF is low or b) the level sensor has died in such a fashion that it looks like the level is low.

If it were my car, I'd buy a couple of gallons of either DW1 (Honda's new ATF, better than Z1) or Amsoil ATF, and two AT filters from Honda. While you are at the dealer, buy three new AT drain bolt crush washers and one for the fill bolt. Get home, get comfy. Remove battery (10mm), air intake (12mm), and battery tray (10mm). Put a 17mm socket on a 6" extension, then use it with all your might to crack the AT fill bolt loose. Swear a bit until the bruised knuckles stop hurting so much, then remove the bolt (10mm) holding the AT filter clamp in place. Grab some needlenose pliers and slide the spring clamps off the filter hoses. Only tiny drips come out when you open these connections up, use a paper towel to catch them. Swap out the filter, reseat clamps. Stick your 3/8 ratchet into the AT drain bolt, be slightly vicious to crack it loose. Swap ratchet for 6" extension, position oil drain pan, unscrew plug using extension as handle. Be amazed at just how nasty your old ATF is. Clean off the drain plug magnet with paper towels. (If you have anything here other than powder, you have major problems. Stop and decide rebuild or have someone else do?) Swap for a new crush washer, reinstall drain bolt. Torque it till it starts to strip, then back off 1/2 turn ( jk!!!!). Using funnel and hole created by removing fill bolt, pour in 2.6 qts new ATF. Put a trace of ATF on the fill bolt threads to make future removal a less Herculean effort, and reinstall it reusing old crush washer. Put battery tray, intake, and battery back where they belong. Drive enough to bring things up to temp, then check fill level.

50 - 100 miles later, use long extension to remove fill bolt without messing with intake or battery. Drain, clean magnet, new washer, reinstall. Use funnel, add 2.6 qts, replace fill bolt. Verify fill level.

50-100 miles later, repeat 2.6 qt change, except this time use the new crush washer on the fill bolt.

1-2000 miles later, swap out the filter again, removing the stuff the new fluids have knocked loose.

You will notice an improved feel after the first 2.6 qts. Why repeat? Each time, you get (very roughly) half of the total volume. Three changes gets you into the 85% range.

 

Guilty! 80K without a transmission fluid change. After reading your responses, it sounds like i may have done some damage, but maybe I will get lucky. I don't have a warm place right now to do a fluid change myself, I will go ahead and go to the local Honda dealership and pay a pro to do it right (and then listen to them lecture me on regular maintenance)

 

You should be fine with that mileage. Unless it was really abused. I just changed the oil at 70k miles and it was pretty dark but the transmission performed flawlessly. Plan to do another one soon. From the looks of it the previous owner never touched it.

 

Ok, I'm getting ready to change the transmission fluid myself and I found a good price on this and I was wondering if it would be fine as a replacement:

Valvoline MAX Life Dex/Merc ATF
It says recommended for most GM, Ford, Toyota & Honda models, on the back it says Honda/Acura ATF-Z1 (except CVTs)

I see repeated comments on this forum to go with ONLY Honda ATF-Z1. Best to pay the high price for that or go with this Valvoline equivalent?

Thanks for your input!

 

I wouldn't risk it. You can order the Honda stuff below retail. It's just alot easier to stop by the dealer and get it.

 

Honda Z1 has been superceded by DW1, Honda part # 08200-9008 . DW1 is a synthetic blend. Majestic is selling it for 5.44/qt + shipping. http://www.hondaautomoviveparts.com

I applaud you for seeking advice - fluids are a complicated subject, and manufacturers all have their own agendas. FitFreak DiamondStarMonsters Unofficial Honda FIT Forums - View Profile: DiamondStarMonsters is very knowledgable on the topic, I'd see if he would chime in on this.