13fit

I wholeheartedly admit to being biased against CXRaging stuff from 240 friends and experiences, however they truly have been getting MUCH better lately. If they pick up the phones, that is a BIG from me!!!

You can do all that. The rims and suspension will be a HUGE change.

I can 100% confirm, that without a Flashpro, I/H/E will only make more noise, and possibly lose power on a GD Fit.

My initial dyno base line with my I/H/E with IK-22's and 91 octane before reflash was 89hp.... That was WELL down on most cars, even a stock Fit (Coil packs were good, plugs were good, oil was 300 miles old, air filter was clean, and a valve adjustment had been done in the last 10K miles so I KNOW it was not a "mechanical" issue that had me down on power.)

So, pointless? No, just don't expect any noticeable gains from "bolt on" performance parts, as there are NONE that last through a full ECU learning cycle.

I HIGHLY encourage you to learn EFI and engine tuning... I am starting to. If you would rather pay a pro, there are tons of options to get you a tune ASAP.

+1 on the try to have a weight less than the rim diameter in inches. IE, a "lite" 15" rim is <15 pounds. Keep in mind the tires you intend to use when specking rims. Nothing like finding out the "205" you ordered runs FAT and is not really ideal on anything smaller than a 7.5" wide wheel....

 

I'd rather have a Flashpro than all the bolt-ons in the world. The only thing i'd put above it is tires (don't even care about wheels).

Buy Flashpro, optimize stock motor, buy plugs and run premium, optimize, buy Intake, optimize, buy exhaust, optimize, buy headers, optimize. Practice practice practice.

 

I WISH I had done it that way...

You can get an AFR gauge and a bung welded into the down pipe before the OE cat all for under $300 or so at a local shop...that's what I did. Then datalog and street tune that thing yourself!!!

 

@Pippins

The reason why we push you to get a Hondata is because our car's ecu is smart, and it reprograms your car back to oem specs if ever it detects a change. For example you get I/H/E and then dyno it off the bat, it will recognize the power gains right there but as soon as you drive the car for a while it will slowly re-learn the stock settings and your power will be back to a measly 85-89hp.

I myself should have done it too, unfortunately I already have a header and intake but I will get a Hondata this year before adding some more power mods.

For that budget, focus on suspension and handling for now. You'll have fun with a better handling car even though it's under powered.

 

The things that yield the mostimprovement in performance for the least amount of cash and least change in mpg are:
1, tires (195/50x16 or 205/50x15)
2. wheels 6 0r 7 x15,16, or 17" with offset not less than 42 mm
3. shocks KYB AGX adjustables)
4. brake pads. (Hawk HPS)
5. Disconnect front antisway bar

All are found on TireRack's website, particularly comparisons of lap times on their a/x course for various tires. They are a good independent source of info and prices, edspecially when you ignore they're opinions and go with data only. Only your budget has any affect on your choices.
Rember, as you increase tire section width, reduce tire diameter slightly to make up for the heavier weight of the tire.
good luck.

 

just leave it stock. put that $5k towards a motorcycle