GE8 1.5L Supercharger Kit.
The little under hood I/C is said to have less pressure drop that the front mount they were trying... It sure seems to boost more quickly than the graph shows.. The Rotrex can spin safely at 28000 and on the kits they keep it down around 18000 or 20000... The high boost kit is quite a bit stronger at 1/3 or less throttle from 4500 RPM up than the the 5PSI base kit at the same revs. My IATs are way high after a WOT romp in 5th but I think it has to do with what I told you about the upward flow of heated air from the radiator caused by the louvers since it runs coolest at 40 to 50 with light throttle... I have checked the traction oil temperature by touch after it exits the cooler in front of the radiator after a hard run and it is not anywhere near being hot... I know it would be hotter straight from the blower but the little cooler couldn't bring it down as low as it is if it was dangerously HOT hot. I have 400 tread wear compound tire with a very open tread.. I did have all season performance tires with 320 compound and lots of surface contact... They were better on smooth concrete and very worn asphalt but neither hop unless the tire pressure is hyper miler high. You just have to compromise on some things or die in the poor house... I am kind of like you and prefer to put the go pedal down after I am moving. That 0 to 60 stuff is too costly, wears out clutches, destroys drive trains, and bends connecting rods.... Oh I forgot bending frames and snapping rear control arms.
And thats a good point. In a pure DD you want to leave yourself a fuse in the drivetrain. The tires are a great one and definitely the easiest.
Recently I have been using my pressure plate on the Laser. So when I go back to AWD if I overwhelm it the first time I re-tune my 2-Step/Anti-Lag I'll only slip it and glaze the disc at the worst, and if I do it's a cheap revised ACT Ceramic 6-puck in a 2900lb pressure plate. But if the disc is fully warmed up I'm probably boned. I just want it to put up with even the hardest launch, because I next to never launch the car, but have to when tuning those systems properly.
Now I can pop the wheels, CV shafts and yank the whole engine/trans in less than an hour and a half. I am on engine/trans combo number 4 in 3 years!
Anyways about your IAT situation..
Because I have one laying around.. I have an old sidemount intercooler you could tuck in a fenderwell. You could mount a 7" Fan on it, and have it switched.. that might help fight that.
I am also trying to find you a couple of shots I found of people who added ducting and louvering like you did and they were able to log a considerable decrease in both Coolant temp and IAT
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Feb 24, 2011 at 02:03 AM.
That is terrible about your wheel... I sure hope that your alignment isn't knocked out of alignment or the control arm is damaged... I've done the same thing a few times messing around on empty streets on dry pavement, yeah and on ice too... When you spend a lot of time in your car and your young and crazy you have to expect these things to happen.. If you are old and crazy you can expect the same just trying to get out of your own driveway.... You know..... Shit Happens and the sun rises, until 12- 21-2012 at least..
That is terrible about your wheel... I sure hope that your alignment isn't knocked out of alignment or the control arm is damaged... I've done the same thing a few times messing around on empty streets on dry pavement, yeah and on ice too... When you spend a lot of time in your car and your young and crazy you have to expect these things to happen.. If you are old and crazy you can expect the same just trying to get out of your own driveway.... You know..... Shit Happens and the sun rises, until 12- 21-2012 at least..
Eh. Clutch isn't too bad in the old DSM's, especially FWD. Still, never fun.
Get the front way up in the air pop the CV shafts and the 5 bolts to drop the subframe, undo 2 motor/trans mounts, two sensors and about 8 bell-housing bolts.
The F5M33 FWD 1G trans only weighs about 70lbs wet so one person can do the whole job in about an hour.
A sprung 6-puck disc can usually be had for about $150 or less.
It sure takes a lot of voodoo to beat a Big block V8's torque. I doubt we'll ever see a Fit do that.
And thats a good point. In a pure DD you want to leave yourself a fuse in the drivetrain. The tires are a great one and definitely the easiest.
Recently I have been using my pressure plate on the Laser. So when I go back to AWD if I overwhelm it the first time I re-tune my 2-Step/Anti-Lag I'll only slip it and glaze the disc at the worst, and if I do it's a cheap revised ACT Ceramic 6-puck in a 2900lb pressure plate. But if the disc is fully warmed up I'm probably boned. I just want it to put up with even the hardest launch, because I next to never launch the car, but have to when tuning those systems properly.
Now I can pop the wheels, CV shafts and yank the whole engine/trans in less than an hour and a half. I am on engine/trans combo number 4 in 3 years!
Anyways about your IAT situation..
Because I have one laying around.. I have an old sidemount intercooler you could tuck in a fenderwell. You could mount a 7" Fan on it, and have it switched.. that might help fight that.
I am also trying to find you a couple of shots I found of people who added ducting and louvering like you did and they were able to log a considerable decrease in both Coolant temp and IAT
And thats a good point. In a pure DD you want to leave yourself a fuse in the drivetrain. The tires are a great one and definitely the easiest.
Recently I have been using my pressure plate on the Laser. So when I go back to AWD if I overwhelm it the first time I re-tune my 2-Step/Anti-Lag I'll only slip it and glaze the disc at the worst, and if I do it's a cheap revised ACT Ceramic 6-puck in a 2900lb pressure plate. But if the disc is fully warmed up I'm probably boned. I just want it to put up with even the hardest launch, because I next to never launch the car, but have to when tuning those systems properly.
Now I can pop the wheels, CV shafts and yank the whole engine/trans in less than an hour and a half. I am on engine/trans combo number 4 in 3 years!
Anyways about your IAT situation..
Because I have one laying around.. I have an old sidemount intercooler you could tuck in a fenderwell. You could mount a 7" Fan on it, and have it switched.. that might help fight that.
I am also trying to find you a couple of shots I found of people who added ducting and louvering like you did and they were able to log a considerable decrease in both Coolant temp and IAT
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,295
From: Wandering around.
In the diagram of the Spintex parts, is that big black blob, cast iron/aluminum or plastic?
On a related note... Is there a way to manipulate the "exhaust gas recirculation" (EGR) system?
On a stock Fit, that area looks so exposed, and seems to me that it would be a more easily accessible location to mess with.
Take that EGR section and make a subsystem out of it.
Can we use that exhaust for like an non-cooled secondary intake? My thinking is that part of the purpose of the EGR is to mix hot gases with the fresh intake air to cause it to swirl, thereby mixing the fuel more. Or would the exhaust at low RPM be too slow to push a turbo to compress (and heat up) the air sufficiently?
I had thought about running that secondary intake and forcing it to heat soak. But, would it then cause it to get TOO hot once the turbo spools up at higher RPM?
On a related note... Is there a way to manipulate the "exhaust gas recirculation" (EGR) system?
On a stock Fit, that area looks so exposed, and seems to me that it would be a more easily accessible location to mess with.
Take that EGR section and make a subsystem out of it.
Can we use that exhaust for like an non-cooled secondary intake? My thinking is that part of the purpose of the EGR is to mix hot gases with the fresh intake air to cause it to swirl, thereby mixing the fuel more. Or would the exhaust at low RPM be too slow to push a turbo to compress (and heat up) the air sufficiently?
I had thought about running that secondary intake and forcing it to heat soak. But, would it then cause it to get TOO hot once the turbo spools up at higher RPM?
Last edited by Goobers; Feb 24, 2011 at 06:52 PM.
In the diagram of the Spintex parts, is that big black blob, cast iron/aluminum or plastic?
On a related note... Is there a way to manipulate the "exhaust gas recirculation" (EGR) system?
On a stock Fit, that area looks so exposed, and seems to me that it would be a more easily accessible location to mess with.
Take that EGR section and make a subsystem out of it.
Can we use that exhaust for like an non-cooled secondary intake? My thinking is that part of the purpose of the EGR is to mix hot gases with the fresh intake air to cause it to swirl, thereby mixing the fuel more. Or would the exhaust at low RPM be too slow to push a turbo to compress (and heat up) the air sufficiently?
I had thought about running that secondary intake and forcing it to heat soak. But, would it then cause it to get TOO hot once the turbo spools up at higher RPM?
On a related note... Is there a way to manipulate the "exhaust gas recirculation" (EGR) system?
On a stock Fit, that area looks so exposed, and seems to me that it would be a more easily accessible location to mess with.
Take that EGR section and make a subsystem out of it.
Can we use that exhaust for like an non-cooled secondary intake? My thinking is that part of the purpose of the EGR is to mix hot gases with the fresh intake air to cause it to swirl, thereby mixing the fuel more. Or would the exhaust at low RPM be too slow to push a turbo to compress (and heat up) the air sufficiently?
I had thought about running that secondary intake and forcing it to heat soak. But, would it then cause it to get TOO hot once the turbo spools up at higher RPM?
That could very well be a high-density plastic, or metal. Either way it doesn't have to deal with the heat it would have to put up with if it was used as a wastegate actuator. That location shouldn't get much hotter than 200-225F.
The EGR is primarily for emissions, it basically lets the engine burn any fuel that passed through untouched but at the expense of performance because having exhaust gasses remain present in the combustion chamber.
I actually delete the EGR with a block off plate where possible, but I need to keep it functional on the Fit for emissions compliance. It basically becomes an exhaust leak under enough backpressure. Even if backpressure rise 1:1 with boost which is better than most of us will see on our Turbo fits.
The solenoid or the actuator can be forced open and introducing EGR gasses when they are not supposed to be allowed which is under most driving conditions. Really only at start up and low throttle is when you want the EGR open.
The EGR doesn't provide swirl, the intake runners and valve event choreography take care of that!
Most EGRs are literally just a path from the exhaust runner on one of the end cylinders (#1 or #4 for us) to dump back into the opposite intake runner.
And when it comes to boost you want your intake air to be as cold as possible. The process of creating positive manifold pressure creates enough heat as it is!
Even on ethanol engines, you want things as cold as possible and then use the combustion chamber conditions to bring the fuel up to the "sweet spot" temperature.
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,295
From: Wandering around.
The blob that is kinda circled in the first but not in the second image.
Hum, I wonder how complicated it would be to jus route the exhaust on that side into the exhaust piping, given the current space constraints.
Maybe its not really worth messing with afterall.
Edit: I figured I wouldn't bring up emissions since we're talking about FI, where people are more likely to do straight up cat-deletes.
Hum, I wonder how complicated it would be to jus route the exhaust on that side into the exhaust piping, given the current space constraints.
Maybe its not really worth messing with afterall.
Edit: I figured I wouldn't bring up emissions since we're talking about FI, where people are more likely to do straight up cat-deletes.
Last edited by Goobers; Feb 24, 2011 at 09:00 PM.
The blob that is kinda circled in the first but not in the second image.
Hum, I wonder how complicated it would be to jus route the exhaust on that side into the exhaust piping, given the current space constraints.
Maybe its not really worth messing with afterall.
Edit: I figured I wouldn't bring up emissions since we're talking about FI, where people are more likely to do straight up cat-deletes.
Hum, I wonder how complicated it would be to jus route the exhaust on that side into the exhaust piping, given the current space constraints.
Maybe its not really worth messing with afterall.
Edit: I figured I wouldn't bring up emissions since we're talking about FI, where people are more likely to do straight up cat-deletes.
How long will this internal conflict go on before the temptation is just too much to resist?
I have more faith in this thing to be a reality as the sc already does exsist and the production is more of an oem standard as opposed to an enthusiat product. It's just a matter of time(hopefully) and time I have a lot.
I know how it feels... as much as I was stoked that my Top Fuel arrived, I'm pretty much dismayed that my J's Racing tail lights has not arrived yet and my FIT has been invited to represent and be in a "well known crew". Knowing that I only have a FIT (we all know how the GE is screwed with aftermarket manufaturers)... the J's tail light would have been an ego booster LOL
Let's lengthen our patience on this one...
Let's lengthen our patience on this one...