GE8 1.5L Supercharger Kit.
#141
Hey Diamondstarmonsters do you know of any books that I can read or buy to get to your level of knowledge on tuning I've been reading your posts for a while. and while I cant understand some of them I've learned a lot about tuning. I like to think I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have a good knowledge about cars but it stops after the electronics of a car which all of todays cars have lol just wondering thank you.
Well if I can help or clarify anything just ask Here's a couple good ones to start:
Amazon.com: Engine Management: Advanced Tuning (9781932494426): Greg Banish: Books
Amazon.com: Designing and Tuning High-Performance Fuel Injection Systems (9781932494907): Greg Banish: Books
If you can already confidently bolt on parts, change belts, etc. the install of a kit like this is not bad at all.
Tuning from scratch the first couple times though can be nerve wrecking when you're just getting a feel for the hardware and learning what your individual car likes as far as AFR's, boost and timing.
I haven't updated this in a while because I have been busy but here is a thread full of stuff that may be helpful on some level or another:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ater-meth.html
Here is another good one, start on pg5:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...our-fit-5.html
There's a lot of good info in both by multiple contributors! Feel free to pm me if you have any questions!
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 03-10-2011 at 01:57 AM.
#142
Ahh the art of street tuning. First, you must believe in yourself. Second, you must believe in your car. All else will fall into place.
With that being said, when I decided that I would tune my car myself I simply read everything I could get my hands on. The basic principles of piggyback tunning are remarkably simple. It consists of two basic parts. Don't ever let the stock ecu see boost and add fuel preportional to the quantity of boost.
To keep the ecu from seeing boost we need to modify the maf signal and the map signal. The map is the simplest. Out of boost we allow the stock ecu to see the actual map reading. 0-14.7 psi. In boost we always tell the ecu it has 14.7 psi no matter how much boost there is. This is accomplished by clamping the map signal so that it never exceeds the voltage equivalent of 14.7 psi. The maf is much more difficult to clamp, and is probably the most difficult part of the tune. To clamp the maf we log the maf signal on a WOT run bone STOCK. Then we analyze that log and see what the maximum maf voltage is at various rpm levels. We then take that data and put it into a spreadsheet. We instruct the FIC with that data to never allow a voltage exceeding the bone stock voltage to reach the stock ecu.
So now with the maf and map clamp written into our fic tables and our turbo installed, what will happen if we go wide open throttle. We will enter boost, but the stock computer will only inject 14.7 psia worth of fuel in! Perfection! This is exactly what we want. We want the stock computer to give us exactly 14.7 psia worth of fuel regardless of how much boost we make.
Are you following me cameraguy?
But how do we make it inject the correct amount of fuel then?
Good question!
This brings us to our second phase. Fuel mapping. This is actually very easy. You see if I am making 14.7 psi worth of boost (29.4 psia) that means to achieve the same air fuel ration as I normally would at 14.7 psia or no boost, I need to inject roughly twice as much fuel. Well we are in luck! We can easily tell the fic to do just that. With the onboard map sensor, the fic can tell exactly how much boost we are making. We create a fuel table that says, at 5 psi, inject 33% more fuel than the signal you are recieving from the stock ecu is telling you. So it adds 33% more pulse width and now we are running at stock afr again! Then we tell it the same for each boost level 66% for 10 psi 100% more pulse width for 15psi boost ... Etc. The fic will calculate between boost levels for you... Just with that alone it now knows that it should also do 50% more fuel at 7.5 psi of boost. It can do basic math.
It is actually a bit more compliated but if you follow me so far, you understand the essentials. You see with a table like above we would be running at stock afr, which is actually 13.x and boost requires 11.5 afr for safety so instead we actually add ~125% more fuel at 29.4 psia and proportionaly scale that.
Now with what we have so far we can actually start the car and drive it down the street. We can make a couple wot passes and record our afr at different rpm and boost levels and add more or less fuel at different points to fine tune.
Ahh! But what about part throttle. Well unfortunately this is where piggybacks usually fail. Our fuel maps are 2 dimensional boost x rpm. Until they make me a piggyback that can work in 3 dimensions boost x rpm x throttle it just isn't realistic to think you can 'hard tune' or in other words specifically write out the fuel levels for every part throttle fuel possibility. If they made me a damn tuning cube l could pull it off. Do you hear me developers! Make me a friggin 3 dimensional fuel map already! But I digress, anyway there is a solution for the time being. Luckily the fit loves to operate in closed loop. Literally, you are either in wot and open loop or you are at any partial throttle level and in closed loop. What can we do with this fact? Well in closed loop as you know, the stock ecu will add or subtract fuel on to the base map to keep the car near stoich. So even if you can't add enough fuel in part throttle the ecu will add more for you to keep you at stoich. But we don't want to be at stoich, you say! You are right. So what do we do? We change the signal from the o2 sensor so that when the engine is running at stoich, the computer thinks it is running lean. The percentage we change the signal by, determines how much more fuel the ecu will add. As fate would have it, the maximum the fic allows, 50%, is exactly how much we need to modify the signal to make the stock computer think that 11.5 afr is 13.7 afr. So in other words in part throttle, the stock computer will keep adding fuel, regardless of how bad your non-existant part throttle fuel map is, until you are running at 11.5 afr. Perfection! Then we just clean up the little bit of part throttle fuel map we do have so that the stock ecu doesn't have to work too hard to get the afr right!
Also pull timing, takes like 5 seconds, 1 degree per psi at first.
Wasn't that easy?
With that being said, when I decided that I would tune my car myself I simply read everything I could get my hands on. The basic principles of piggyback tunning are remarkably simple. It consists of two basic parts. Don't ever let the stock ecu see boost and add fuel preportional to the quantity of boost.
To keep the ecu from seeing boost we need to modify the maf signal and the map signal. The map is the simplest. Out of boost we allow the stock ecu to see the actual map reading. 0-14.7 psi. In boost we always tell the ecu it has 14.7 psi no matter how much boost there is. This is accomplished by clamping the map signal so that it never exceeds the voltage equivalent of 14.7 psi. The maf is much more difficult to clamp, and is probably the most difficult part of the tune. To clamp the maf we log the maf signal on a WOT run bone STOCK. Then we analyze that log and see what the maximum maf voltage is at various rpm levels. We then take that data and put it into a spreadsheet. We instruct the FIC with that data to never allow a voltage exceeding the bone stock voltage to reach the stock ecu.
So now with the maf and map clamp written into our fic tables and our turbo installed, what will happen if we go wide open throttle. We will enter boost, but the stock computer will only inject 14.7 psia worth of fuel in! Perfection! This is exactly what we want. We want the stock computer to give us exactly 14.7 psia worth of fuel regardless of how much boost we make.
Are you following me cameraguy?
But how do we make it inject the correct amount of fuel then?
Good question!
This brings us to our second phase. Fuel mapping. This is actually very easy. You see if I am making 14.7 psi worth of boost (29.4 psia) that means to achieve the same air fuel ration as I normally would at 14.7 psia or no boost, I need to inject roughly twice as much fuel. Well we are in luck! We can easily tell the fic to do just that. With the onboard map sensor, the fic can tell exactly how much boost we are making. We create a fuel table that says, at 5 psi, inject 33% more fuel than the signal you are recieving from the stock ecu is telling you. So it adds 33% more pulse width and now we are running at stock afr again! Then we tell it the same for each boost level 66% for 10 psi 100% more pulse width for 15psi boost ... Etc. The fic will calculate between boost levels for you... Just with that alone it now knows that it should also do 50% more fuel at 7.5 psi of boost. It can do basic math.
It is actually a bit more compliated but if you follow me so far, you understand the essentials. You see with a table like above we would be running at stock afr, which is actually 13.x and boost requires 11.5 afr for safety so instead we actually add ~125% more fuel at 29.4 psia and proportionaly scale that.
Now with what we have so far we can actually start the car and drive it down the street. We can make a couple wot passes and record our afr at different rpm and boost levels and add more or less fuel at different points to fine tune.
Ahh! But what about part throttle. Well unfortunately this is where piggybacks usually fail. Our fuel maps are 2 dimensional boost x rpm. Until they make me a piggyback that can work in 3 dimensions boost x rpm x throttle it just isn't realistic to think you can 'hard tune' or in other words specifically write out the fuel levels for every part throttle fuel possibility. If they made me a damn tuning cube l could pull it off. Do you hear me developers! Make me a friggin 3 dimensional fuel map already! But I digress, anyway there is a solution for the time being. Luckily the fit loves to operate in closed loop. Literally, you are either in wot and open loop or you are at any partial throttle level and in closed loop. What can we do with this fact? Well in closed loop as you know, the stock ecu will add or subtract fuel on to the base map to keep the car near stoich. So even if you can't add enough fuel in part throttle the ecu will add more for you to keep you at stoich. But we don't want to be at stoich, you say! You are right. So what do we do? We change the signal from the o2 sensor so that when the engine is running at stoich, the computer thinks it is running lean. The percentage we change the signal by, determines how much more fuel the ecu will add. As fate would have it, the maximum the fic allows, 50%, is exactly how much we need to modify the signal to make the stock computer think that 11.5 afr is 13.7 afr. So in other words in part throttle, the stock computer will keep adding fuel, regardless of how bad your non-existant part throttle fuel map is, until you are running at 11.5 afr. Perfection! Then we just clean up the little bit of part throttle fuel map we do have so that the stock ecu doesn't have to work too hard to get the afr right!
Also pull timing, takes like 5 seconds, 1 degree per psi at first.
Wasn't that easy?
Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; 03-10-2011 at 06:30 PM.
#145
Ahh the art of street tuning. First, you must believe in yourself. Second, you must believe in your car. All else will fall into place.
With that being said, when I decided that I would tune my car myself I simply read everything I could get my hands on. The basic principles of piggyback tunning are remarkably simple. It consists of two basic parts. Don't ever let the stock ecu see boost and add fuel preportional to the quantity of boost.
To keep the ecu from seeing boost we need to modify the maf signal and the map signal. The map is the simplest. Out of boost we allow the stock ecu to see the actual map reading. 0-14.7 psi. In boost we always tell the ecu it has 14.7 psi no matter how much boost there is. This is accomplished by clamping the map signal so that it never exceeds the voltage equivalent of 14.7 psi. The maf is much more difficult to clamp, and is probably the most difficult part of the tune. To clamp the maf we log the maf signal on a WOT run bone STOCK. Then we analyze that log and see what the maximum maf voltage is at various rpm levels. We then take that data and put it into a spreadsheet. We instruct the FIC with that data to never allow a voltage exceeding the bone stock voltage to reach the stock ecu.
So now with the maf and map clamp written into our fic tables and our turbo installed, what will happen if we go wide open throttle. We will enter boost, but the stock computer will only inject 14.7 psia worth of fuel in! Perfection! This is exactly what we want. We want the stock computer to give us exactly 14.7 psia worth of fuel regardless of how much boost we make.
Are you following me cameraguy?
But how do we make it inject the correct amount of fuel then?
Good question!
This brings us to our second phase. Fuel mapping. This is actually very easy. You see if I am making 14.7 psi worth of boost (29.4 psia) that means to achieve the same air fuel ration as I normally would at 14.7 psia or no boost, I need to inject roughly twice as much fuel. Well we are in luck! We can easily tell the fic to do just that. With the onboard map sensor, the fic can tell exactly how much boost we are making. We create a fuel table that says, at 5 psi, inject 33% more fuel than the signal you are recieving from the stock ecu is telling you. So it adds 33% more pulse width and now we are running at stock afr again! Then we tell it the same for each boost level 66% for 10 psi 100% more pulse width for 15psi boost ... Etc. The fic will calculate between boost levels for you... Just with that alone it now knows that it should also do 50% more fuel at 7.5 psi of boost. It can do basic math.
It is actually a bit more compliated but if you follow me so far, you understand the essentials. You see with a table like above we would be running at stock afr, which is actually 13.x and boost requires 11.5 afr for safety so instead we actually add ~125% more fuel at 29.4 psia and proportionaly scale that.
Now with what we have so far we can actually start the car and drive it down the street. We can make a couple wot passes and record our afr at different rpm and boost levels and add more or less fuel at different points to fine tune.
Ahh! But what about part throttle. Well unfortunately this is where piggybacks usually fail. Our fuel maps are 2 dimensional boost x rpm. Until they make me a piggyback that can work in 3 dimensions boost x rpm x throttle it just isn't realistic to think you can 'hard tune' or in other words specifically write out the fuel levels for every part throttle fuel possibility. If they made me a damn tuning cube l could pull it off. Do you hear me developers! Make me a friggin 3 dimensional fuel map already! But I digress, anyway there is a solution for the time being. Luckily the fit loves to operate in closed loop. Literally, you are either in wot and open loop or you are at any partial throttle level and in closed loop. What can we do with this fact? Well in closed loop as you know, the stock ecu will add or subtract fuel on to the base map to keep the car near stoich. So even if you can't add enough fuel in part throttle the ecu will add more for you to keep you at stoich. But we don't want to be at stoich, you say! You are right. So what do we do? We change the signal from the o2 sensor so that when the engine is running at stoich, the computer thinks it is running lean. The percentage we change the signal by, determines how much more fuel the ecu will add. As fate would have it, the maximum the fic allows, 50%, is exactly how much we need to modify the signal to make the stock computer think that 11.5 afr is 13.7 afr. So in other words in part throttle, the stock computer will keep adding fuel, regardless of how bad your non-existant part throttle fuel map is, until you are running at 11.5 afr. Perfection! Then we just clean up the little bit of part throttle fuel map we do have so that the stock ecu doesn't have to work too hard to get the afr right!
Also pull timing, takes like 5 seconds, 1 degree per psi at first.
Wasn't that easy?
With that being said, when I decided that I would tune my car myself I simply read everything I could get my hands on. The basic principles of piggyback tunning are remarkably simple. It consists of two basic parts. Don't ever let the stock ecu see boost and add fuel preportional to the quantity of boost.
To keep the ecu from seeing boost we need to modify the maf signal and the map signal. The map is the simplest. Out of boost we allow the stock ecu to see the actual map reading. 0-14.7 psi. In boost we always tell the ecu it has 14.7 psi no matter how much boost there is. This is accomplished by clamping the map signal so that it never exceeds the voltage equivalent of 14.7 psi. The maf is much more difficult to clamp, and is probably the most difficult part of the tune. To clamp the maf we log the maf signal on a WOT run bone STOCK. Then we analyze that log and see what the maximum maf voltage is at various rpm levels. We then take that data and put it into a spreadsheet. We instruct the FIC with that data to never allow a voltage exceeding the bone stock voltage to reach the stock ecu.
So now with the maf and map clamp written into our fic tables and our turbo installed, what will happen if we go wide open throttle. We will enter boost, but the stock computer will only inject 14.7 psia worth of fuel in! Perfection! This is exactly what we want. We want the stock computer to give us exactly 14.7 psia worth of fuel regardless of how much boost we make.
Are you following me cameraguy?
But how do we make it inject the correct amount of fuel then?
Good question!
This brings us to our second phase. Fuel mapping. This is actually very easy. You see if I am making 14.7 psi worth of boost (29.4 psia) that means to achieve the same air fuel ration as I normally would at 14.7 psia or no boost, I need to inject roughly twice as much fuel. Well we are in luck! We can easily tell the fic to do just that. With the onboard map sensor, the fic can tell exactly how much boost we are making. We create a fuel table that says, at 5 psi, inject 33% more fuel than the signal you are recieving from the stock ecu is telling you. So it adds 33% more pulse width and now we are running at stock afr again! Then we tell it the same for each boost level 66% for 10 psi 100% more pulse width for 15psi boost ... Etc. The fic will calculate between boost levels for you... Just with that alone it now knows that it should also do 50% more fuel at 7.5 psi of boost. It can do basic math.
It is actually a bit more compliated but if you follow me so far, you understand the essentials. You see with a table like above we would be running at stock afr, which is actually 13.x and boost requires 11.5 afr for safety so instead we actually add ~125% more fuel at 29.4 psia and proportionaly scale that.
Now with what we have so far we can actually start the car and drive it down the street. We can make a couple wot passes and record our afr at different rpm and boost levels and add more or less fuel at different points to fine tune.
Ahh! But what about part throttle. Well unfortunately this is where piggybacks usually fail. Our fuel maps are 2 dimensional boost x rpm. Until they make me a piggyback that can work in 3 dimensions boost x rpm x throttle it just isn't realistic to think you can 'hard tune' or in other words specifically write out the fuel levels for every part throttle fuel possibility. If they made me a damn tuning cube l could pull it off. Do you hear me developers! Make me a friggin 3 dimensional fuel map already! But I digress, anyway there is a solution for the time being. Luckily the fit loves to operate in closed loop. Literally, you are either in wot and open loop or you are at any partial throttle level and in closed loop. What can we do with this fact? Well in closed loop as you know, the stock ecu will add or subtract fuel on to the base map to keep the car near stoich. So even if you can't add enough fuel in part throttle the ecu will add more for you to keep you at stoich. But we don't want to be at stoich, you say! You are right. So what do we do? We change the signal from the o2 sensor so that when the engine is running at stoich, the computer thinks it is running lean. The percentage we change the signal by, determines how much more fuel the ecu will add. As fate would have it, the maximum the fic allows, 50%, is exactly how much we need to modify the signal to make the stock computer think that 11.5 afr is 13.7 afr. So in other words in part throttle, the stock computer will keep adding fuel, regardless of how bad your non-existant part throttle fuel map is, until you are running at 11.5 afr. Perfection! Then we just clean up the little bit of part throttle fuel map we do have so that the stock ecu doesn't have to work too hard to get the afr right!
Also pull timing, takes like 5 seconds, 1 degree per psi at first.
Wasn't that easy?
which will be never!
#146
The part of all that you should find encouraging is the very short period of time in which he figured all that out!
If you have the curiosity, the ability to read and some patience we would be happy to help!
This stuff is my obsession and I love to bring new people into the tuning world!
It will change the way you think about modifying cars entirely. ~80% of tuning EFI systems is mechanical.
If you have the curiosity, the ability to read and some patience we would be happy to help!
This stuff is my obsession and I love to bring new people into the tuning world!
It will change the way you think about modifying cars entirely. ~80% of tuning EFI systems is mechanical.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 03-15-2011 at 12:29 AM.
#147
If you have the curiousity, the ability to read and some time we would be happy to help!
This stuff is my obsession and I love to bring new people into the tuning world!
It will change the way you think about modifying cars entirely. ~80% of tuning EFI systems is mechanical.
What is counter-intuitive for some is that tuning for part throttle comfort is more involved than going for big power. Though there is a point where those two lines intersect but that is towards the extreme ends of the spectrum.
This stuff is my obsession and I love to bring new people into the tuning world!
It will change the way you think about modifying cars entirely. ~80% of tuning EFI systems is mechanical.
What is counter-intuitive for some is that tuning for part throttle comfort is more involved than going for big power. Though there is a point where those two lines intersect but that is towards the extreme ends of the spectrum.
But really, believing is 90% of it.
Aye, you can handle this, heck I'm an insurance agent for goodness sake. Everyone knows how dumb we are. As corny as this is going to sound, it's the power of the scientific method that has gotten me this far. (well that and whipering sweet nothings to my baby while she idles) If you can be objective, isolate variables, and perform simple high school algebra you got this. Even for me the biggest obsticle was myself. 4 months ago I couldn't tell a compressor map from a highway map or an exducer from a thrust bearing. But all the information is already out there. This is the 21st century, your ability to succeed is no longer determined by your ability to retain large amounts of information (we have the Internet for that) but rather your ability to process that information in a meaningful way. Okay, I'm starting to get off topic... But seriously you just have to believe in yourself first.
Last edited by Lyon[Nightroad]; 03-15-2011 at 12:46 AM.
#148
That just BOOSTED my self-esteem. ha get it? *snort snort*. but yea, I new to the automotive field and would love to get a hands on experience with these kinds of technologies. but in the mean time, baby steps. I am taking fundamentals of automotive technologies at a community college to get a feel of what am I up against.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
#149
Maybe the interested people are still in warranty period...? I'm still under 5K miles and would be hesitant to do major work and or mod just yet. A direct bolt-on here and there which can easily be reverted to stock is where I'm at with the given situation. I've been reading and been scouring different sources of knowledge... nowhere near competent but I'm slowly getting it.
#150
holy fuck boys and girls, i just got some FUCKING GREAT NEWS!!! LOL
i got on to sprintex, emailed them. searched their site and came across boostecus.com. i decided to email them for the fun of it. i hit send, and not even 2 min later my phone is ringing.
anyways, long convo short, i was talking to the main distributor for north america. his name is Rick Rimmer. he said that the kit is fully functional with the USDM fit, with some minor wiring to do.
i mentioned this site, and he said i was the second person to do so(props to who was the first!!!) and asked if i could do this for him. so, here goes guys.
his email address is boostec@msn.com
he wants us to email him to see if there is any interest(i told him there is) and he said if people are interested, and they are fine with the price, then he will certainly bring some in.
he will be talking to spintex directly tomorrow to see what it will cost to ship over, and all. he will forward me any info he can, and will be emailing me back which i plan to copy and paste onto here.
he quoted me a price of about $3200 (plus or minus) plus shipping.
all i can say is wow, and supercharger......comon down!
i got on to sprintex, emailed them. searched their site and came across boostecus.com. i decided to email them for the fun of it. i hit send, and not even 2 min later my phone is ringing.
anyways, long convo short, i was talking to the main distributor for north america. his name is Rick Rimmer. he said that the kit is fully functional with the USDM fit, with some minor wiring to do.
i mentioned this site, and he said i was the second person to do so(props to who was the first!!!) and asked if i could do this for him. so, here goes guys.
his email address is boostec@msn.com
he wants us to email him to see if there is any interest(i told him there is) and he said if people are interested, and they are fine with the price, then he will certainly bring some in.
he will be talking to spintex directly tomorrow to see what it will cost to ship over, and all. he will forward me any info he can, and will be emailing me back which i plan to copy and paste onto here.
he quoted me a price of about $3200 (plus or minus) plus shipping.
all i can say is wow, and supercharger......comon down!
#151
I'm down with that!
...if there is any interest(i told him there is) and he said if people are interested, and they are fine with the price, then he will certainly bring some in.
he will be talking to spintex directly tomorrow to see what it will cost to ship over, and all. he will forward me any info he can, and will be emailing me back which i plan to copy and paste onto here.
he quoted me a price of about $3200 (plus or minus) plus shipping.
all i can say is wow, and supercharger......comon down!
he will be talking to spintex directly tomorrow to see what it will cost to ship over, and all. he will forward me any info he can, and will be emailing me back which i plan to copy and paste onto here.
he quoted me a price of about $3200 (plus or minus) plus shipping.
all i can say is wow, and supercharger......comon down!
#152
i just made a new thread, to catch peoples eye, and to let them know this is avaible now......post up!
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post972793
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tml#post972793
#153
holy fuck boys and girls, i just got some FUCKING GREAT NEWS!!! LOL
i got on to sprintex, emailed them. searched their site and came across boostecus.com. i decided to email them for the fun of it. i hit send, and not even 2 min later my phone is ringing.
anyways, long convo short, i was talking to the main distributor for north america. his name is Rick Rimmer. he said that the kit is fully functional with the USDM fit, with some minor wiring to do.
i mentioned this site, and he said i was the second person to do so(props to who was the first!!!) and asked if i could do this for him. so, here goes guys.
his email address is boostec@msn.com
he wants us to email him to see if there is any interest(i told him there is) and he said if people are interested, and they are fine with the price, then he will certainly bring some in.
he will be talking to spintex directly tomorrow to see what it will cost to ship over, and all. he will forward me any info he can, and will be emailing me back which i plan to copy and paste onto here.
he quoted me a price of about $3200 (plus or minus) plus shipping.
all i can say is wow, and supercharger......comon down!
i got on to sprintex, emailed them. searched their site and came across boostecus.com. i decided to email them for the fun of it. i hit send, and not even 2 min later my phone is ringing.
anyways, long convo short, i was talking to the main distributor for north america. his name is Rick Rimmer. he said that the kit is fully functional with the USDM fit, with some minor wiring to do.
i mentioned this site, and he said i was the second person to do so(props to who was the first!!!) and asked if i could do this for him. so, here goes guys.
his email address is boostec@msn.com
he wants us to email him to see if there is any interest(i told him there is) and he said if people are interested, and they are fine with the price, then he will certainly bring some in.
he will be talking to spintex directly tomorrow to see what it will cost to ship over, and all. he will forward me any info he can, and will be emailing me back which i plan to copy and paste onto here.
he quoted me a price of about $3200 (plus or minus) plus shipping.
all i can say is wow, and supercharger......comon down!
#155
You guys with GEs didn't have to wait any longer than the GD guys did for the KWSC kit.. I wonder how long it will be for them to have a high boost upgrade... It seems to me that the boost characteristics of the Sprintex will make for easier tuning for an upgrade.
#156
Power: Before: 91.6PS, After 117.31PS for a gain of 25.71PS
Torque: Before: 11.35kg/m, After 13.36kg/m for a gain of 2.01kg/m
The SC is boosting at 0.6 bar.
The kit comprises of the supercharger, intake manifold, additional fuel injector, Perfect Power SMT-8 piggyback (preloaded with the fuel map) and the brackets/pulleys. This is installed on a totally stock engine, cooling system, air intake and exhaust.
Much more potential to be released I would assume... what do you guys think?
#157
This is what I got off another magazine.. It's for the same car (the City in my previous post):
Power: Before: 91.6PS, After 117.31PS for a gain of 25.71PS
Torque: Before: 11.35kg/m, After 13.36kg/m for a gain of 2.01kg/m
The SC is boosting at 0.6 bar.
The kit comprises of the supercharger, intake manifold, additional fuel injector, Perfect Power SMT-8 piggyback (preloaded with the fuel map) and the brackets/pulleys. This is installed on a totally stock engine, cooling system, air intake and exhaust.
Much more potential to be released I would assume... what do you guys think?
Power: Before: 91.6PS, After 117.31PS for a gain of 25.71PS
Torque: Before: 11.35kg/m, After 13.36kg/m for a gain of 2.01kg/m
The SC is boosting at 0.6 bar.
The kit comprises of the supercharger, intake manifold, additional fuel injector, Perfect Power SMT-8 piggyback (preloaded with the fuel map) and the brackets/pulleys. This is installed on a totally stock engine, cooling system, air intake and exhaust.
Much more potential to be released I would assume... what do you guys think?
#158
This is what I got off another magazine.. It's for the same car (the City in my previous post):
Power: Before: 91.6PS, After 117.31PS for a gain of 25.71PS
Torque: Before: 11.35kg/m, After 13.36kg/m for a gain of 2.01kg/m
The SC is boosting at 0.6 bar.
The kit comprises of the supercharger, intake manifold, additional fuel injector, Perfect Power SMT-8 piggyback (preloaded with the fuel map) and the brackets/pulleys. This is installed on a totally stock engine, cooling system, air intake and exhaust.
Much more potential to be released I would assume... what do you guys think?
Power: Before: 91.6PS, After 117.31PS for a gain of 25.71PS
Torque: Before: 11.35kg/m, After 13.36kg/m for a gain of 2.01kg/m
The SC is boosting at 0.6 bar.
The kit comprises of the supercharger, intake manifold, additional fuel injector, Perfect Power SMT-8 piggyback (preloaded with the fuel map) and the brackets/pulleys. This is installed on a totally stock engine, cooling system, air intake and exhaust.
Much more potential to be released I would assume... what do you guys think?
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