I have an '09 Sport with 163k miles. We just picked up a '16 CRV, and it made me realize how rough our Fit has been riding over bumps, potholes, and such. I've done plenty of DIY stuff, but never anything suspension-related. My assumption is that it is the shocks and struts are worn out, but I was curious if

a). that is the most likely culprit. Should I check something else out before replacing them? I was looking at these up front for $63 apiece. Thoughts? (This is just a daily driver car.)

b). are there other parts I should swap while I'm at it? Sway bars? Control Arms? I'm seeing kits like this out there. Would I be wise to swap all of this out with the struts? On the other hand I don't want to throw away money...

c). Anything I should be aware of before jumping in? I have general tools, including sockets, as well as jack stands.

I'll add that I don't feel like the car has play in the steering or any weird steering-related noises. It just feels like it is harsh on bumps and potholes.

 

I’d do shocks and tires as a general rule for comfort. Bushings for sloppy feels. I’m typically not brand picky with OE replacements, as anything new will probably feel worlds better than a163k miles-old suspension.

Spray everything with penetrating fluid the night before.

Another thing I can recommend is don’t let the hub hang to the point it pulls the axle out. If it does, feel around at the end and you’ll feel like 3 ball bearing type things, rotate the hub with one hand while holding those ball bearings with the other, guiding the axel back into the transmission while rotating it slowly, It will eventually slot back in but it might be panic inducing at first.

Otherwise the fit is really easy to work on
I’m sure there are YouTube vids for your exact car Budget two days if it’s your first time!

 

I posted this on the Fit subreddit and several people said I should replace the control arms as well. It looks like that would add around $120 to the price. Anybody have any thoughts on doing this myself and if it is warranted? $110 doesn't seem like that much money, but what should I look for to determine if they need replacing?
And thanks jbyron for the helpful advice!

 

If you are going through the effort of this work, you should use Honda or premium parts IMHO. Changing suspension parts that fail after a year is painful and generally requires another alignment. Moog is hit or miss these days and you also should steer clear of economy parts IMHO.

163k miles is too much for shocks and struts. I would either consider Honda or performance brands like Bilstein, not third-tier brands.

With that mileage and crusty dampers, your springs are probably getting on also. You can inspect the springs for damage but they do eventually wear.

When changing struts, you should consider the related hardware also as a general matter (mounts, bellows,...)

You can visually check the entire suspension bits and bushings for wear. Look at the CV boots and axle (note there is an axle recall). You can also jack up each wheel and check for any play and/or noise (internet shows how to do that).

*** Springs are incredibly dangerous. Deadly even under just a little compression. Do NOT use a cheap spring compressor. Study very carefully how this works or have someone experienced deal with all spring work. Pro spring compressors are relatively safe and very speedy. Home gamer spring compressors are both dangerous and take a lot of time and effort.

You should be using premium brand-name tires with long warranties. Get the tires balanced. Low profile tires are sporty but higher profile tires offer a lot more comfortable shock absorption so that might give you a better ride. If you get higher profile tires, that may change the speedometer reading and acceleration a bit.

After suspension work you need to get the car aligned or your tires will wear very quickly. Do the alignment with the new tires.

 

I would recommend going with KYB's over cheaper shocks.

 

So I haven't get around to doing the work yet, but I've also noticed that I'm getting a grinding noise in the front right when I turn to the left. I'm assuming that my cv axle is going bad. I'm going to take it to the dealership and see if I can get it replaced under the recall, but I'm far enough south (Louisville, KY) that I doubt it will qualify. Anyway, can anybody weigh in on the sequence of replacing parts if I'm doing shocks, control arms, and cv axles? Also, I'm assuming if I'm already doing everything else to replace the LEFT cv axle as well (I'm not hearing any grinding there yet...)? And maybe a silly question, but I've never really ordered auto parts online before. I was looking at stuff from Rock Auto, but is there much difference than say going to AutoZone for most of these parts? Not sure on pros/cons, but certainly being able to take parts back to the store if something doesn't works seems like a perk.
Edit: Someone on another site said they think my issue may be the wheel bearing, NOT the axle. I didn't notice any play in the wheel when I had it jacked. What else should I look for to tell the difference?

 

is the noise clicky or in fact more buzzy/grindy? typically the bearing will be a mostly constant buzzy/grindy. ive replaced 3 front bearings on my 09 Fit...you need a bearing kit and its very time consuming but doable with hand tools. the rear bearings are a whole unit and are inexpensive and really easy to replace. with your mileage u should consider replacing if you do the fronts.

as for parts, id always prefer brand new Oem of course first, but some Oem part prices are ridiculous. depending on the part and price, id prefer brand new Moog or Beck Arnley vs used Honda parts with an unknown past and mileage. im using Beck Arnley endlinks, which are much nicer than the Oem ones. i also have Moog tie rod ends and upper strut mounts that will be going on soon when i switch out my coilovers, just to keep everything fresh and tight.

on a slightly different note, ive used a Auto zone (duralast?) brand PCV valve and it makes a rattle noise the Oem one didnt.

try to get your axles replaced with the recall. i dont like having shops work on my car, but will be taking advantage of the axle recall next week.

 

PS ..i used this as a guide when replacing my front bearings...just so u know what you might be getting in to.

 

It definitely sounds more like a low-ish grinding with some pinging metal sounds over it (someone else said that is probably the dust shroud rattling against it. I watched this video that seems more straightforward, but requires a press to push the bearing in/out. I think it might just make more sense to take the whole wheel assembly to the shop (especially if I'm replacing most of the suspension parts too) and let them swap the bearings. I'm assuming that would be cheaper than taking in the car and having them do it all.

 

It definitely sounds more like a low-ish grinding with some pinging metal sounds over it (someone else said that is probably the dust shroud rattling against it. but requires a press to push the bearing in/out. I think it might just make more sense to take the whole wheel assembly to the shop (especially if I'm replacing most of the suspension parts too) and let them swap the bearings. I'm assuming that would be cheaper than taking in the car and having them do it all.

 

Loving the names I see in this thread. You're in good hands.
Taking the hubs to a shop would be a fine call. It's a really cheap service to simply get old bearings pressed out and new ones put in, or should be if the shop doesn't suck. Think 10-20 bucks per hub.

I'd like to chime in and make a few wild claims. At your own risk type stuff.

• OEM anti-roll bar end links do seem flimsy, but the rubber on them and other Honda suspension parts is good. I wouldn't fault anyone for use of OEM parts, but I myself find aftermarket components to be acceptable with the exception of Moog end links. The rubber on mine ripped in less than 15K miles, and that's followed by joint wear, so I used a different manufacturer for the second go. If you use rockauto, buy mid-range parts with hearts next to them.
• Spring compressors are indeed a little nerve-racking. Should you choose to take on the task it's worth while to find a decent one with a price-point that reflects compromises in acceptable areas.
  This is the one I purchased
  This is the one I purchased
  back in 2018, but I believe one of similar style with good reviews would provide you with adequate service.
• Measure the length of the stud above the top middle nut in MM or 16ths with a ruler and write it down. If the new strut uses different hardware (like a nut and washer instead of a flanged nut) subtract or add respectfully any change in thickness from your measurement. Despite having a torque-spec, the top nut is properly placed by height, not torque, and you want to be as accurate as possible to get proper ride height.
• It is possible that if you choose (as I did) to keep OEM springs and just replace struts that you will encounter rusted-on top nuts on the struts. To remove this I use this Angle Grinder AFTER THE SPRINGS ARE COMPRESSED, ASSEMBLY LAID ON THE GROUND IN THE COMPRESSOR. I've yet to replace a set of struts or shocks that didn't require the top nut cut off. As such, I strongly recommend purchase of an angle grinder before taking the task on. Cut just below the nut into the rubber bushing.
• Get new strut mounts too.
• Make sure that the spring seats properly into the bracket on the strut. I'd recommend taking pictures before beginning so that everything can be oriented correctly.

It's an intimidating task on first attempt, but once you get a feel for it replacing suspension can be really satisfying. It's something that often goes neglected as cars age, resulting in their driving like "old cars."

I've used KYB Excel G struts and shocks from rockauto for my Fit, Tacoma, and my father's Tacoma. My only complaint is that they aren't an upgrade like Bilsteins.

 

Yeah, compressing springs gives me pause. I was looking at ordering these so I could side-step the whole spring compression bit. Thoughts? And thanks for all of the specific parts advice! I'm definitely nervous about tackling all of this. I've done brakes and engine work, but never any of this stuff. The good news is that I'm a teacher on summer break and have the flexibility to keep this in the garage for a while I figure things out...

 

Doing a full coil-over is a solid option. From the hearsay I've gathered, the springs on aftermarket coil-overs are often stiffer and by appearance, thinner than stock springs. I don't know if it's true.

I actually just did front struts on our 09 tacoma two weeks or so ago, so it's fresh in my mind. I would say that if you'd like to gain the ability to replace struts on other vehicles for friends, family, get the compressor. I feel obligated to say it's dangerous because of negative potential, but, and this will likely garner some negative attention, I'm not at all nervous about use of the tool. Respectful, much like with the equally terrifying angle grinder. It's taken years for me to stop flinching when that kicks on. I wouldn't drop the some 25


Leverage keeps the spring holding plates in place once resistance from the spring is applied, the little bolt is to help, keep them from falling out before that AND from slipping out to the side. A side impact of adequate force could weaken/cleave those bolts and maybe prompt release, so I try to avoid that scenario.
lb compressor with spring squished in it, but I've knocked it over and kicked it while loaded (both on accident.) It didn't shake, creak, or any such thing.

If automotive stuff is more practical rather than something you enjoy, get the coil-overs OR you could also take the OEM coil-overs with you to the shop to have the struts swapped out. Prolly ~$40 a piece. Just dont throw out the old springs.

I was very uncertain back when I was shopping for the one I sent you a link to, spent days choosing. I looked at some for repair shops that were +$1000 and saw the same complaints about their not being safe enough. I found that to be sobering.

Sorry, the pics inserted in a weird place If you go with coil-overs, tell me how they ride!!

 

Okay, so dumb question, I see lots of people talk about coilovers, but I don't know what the difference is between them and regular struts. I will say that I don't want to lower the car (although I'm just now considering that raising it slightly would be cool if I'm already swapping out all of this stuff...) I definitely don't want stiffer suspension than the original. I'd prefer to get the same performance as OEM.

 

A coilover is a spring with a strut in the middle of it A coil spring over a strut! It doesn't denote a specific fancy design, it just refers to the two components joined together to create the assembly. There does seem to be folks stating that coilovers in their true form are well, the same thing, but performance oriented and designed to modify ride height.

Hopefully someone will chime in to voice if changing to a specific aftermarket spring changed their ride quality. It's what I've heard generally, that they're stiffer to compensate for being thinner, which uses less material and reduces cost. You'll find reviews on amazon ect. stating either: "my car doesn't bottom out anymore," "HELL YA AWSOME," or "They ride a little stiffer than stock."

As for increasing ride height, few have done it, so there won't be a cut and dry route to accomplish the task of increasing ride height.

 

Thanks. I *sort of* thought that, but I see the term "coilover" so synonymously with performance adjustments (ala lowering ride height) that I had started to believe it was something separate from the normal assembly. I'm not sure I want to raise the ride height, but it kinda seems like if I were to, now would be the time to do it.

 

Don't feel too locked in to make a big call if money isn't loosely strewn about your room. There's lots to consider when modifying original designs. Altering ride height would also require camber adjustment, causes increased strain on suspension components, has potential to create faults that are quite difficult to troubleshoot.

Over on the truck forum I semi-frequent lots of people lift their trucks for aesthetics and then encounter driveline vibration due to increased angle on universal joints. They aren't islands when they try to troubleshoot, because everyone wants to be in a great big truck, so there's ideas to pull from the crowd. In raising the fit you'd be much on your own to resolve issues encountered.

I'd recommend restoring OEM function and seeing if that satisfies. Car and Driver thought so! You'd get the opportunity to experience the car as it should be when stuffs functioning as intended, and that'd help to identify what a failed strut feels/sounds like, and what it likely couldn't feel/sound like. Plus, if something goes wrong, you'd have a tremendous amount of information to pull from. Less strain on the wallet so you can go buy a mini sledge hammer, an electric impact, or an angle grinder if needed. Doing struts the second time around only takes two or three hours to boot! You won't need new strut mounts for years either, so really nothing would be lost if you wanted to convert after except the cash spent on new struts.

Man I have a lot of discouraging things to say
On the other hand, if you go for a lift I'd think that's cool and interesting, especially if you were able to clearly define a successful method afterwards.

Here's some links I found that I think will be interesting if not helpful:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../171161/page1/ (this one's about rally stuff)

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...honda-fit.html (younger me was a little sassy in this one)

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...sion-lift.html (this one is a spacer lift I haven't read in a long time)