Hey guys. This write up is complete and I have some notes, but first: I'm doing this write-up because dealing with body panels and not breaking anything is hard. Service manuals are seldom clear enough on the best way to remove clips and orient parts, so I wanted to address that. My purpose for performing this job is to resolve window vibration, but replacing the full assembly with motor should also resolve other window problems, like failure to fully raise automatically (goes back down on its own) and slow ascent.
I've also attached relevant sections from the Bishko manual to fill in blanks.
Edit: do not need to remove tweeter. Ignore that page from the speaker removal procedure

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Driver's door interior panel!


Step one! Remove screw from door handle. Using my trusty PB Swiss #2 phillips driver (PB, send me free stuff)


Step two is removing this fascia panel from the arm rest. There's 3 clips on it that get pushed in one at a time with a flat head screwdriver while you simultaneously grasp (as shown above) the left side of the fascia and pull it towards you. Start with the rearmost clip, push it up, hold, and with your left hand pull the fascia gently toward you


Here's a shot with the panel removed showing 2 of the 3 clips. The third I'll show in the next pic. Note position of the screwdriver I'm using. The clips are pushed up just as shown while pulling the left side of the fascia toward you

 

Here's a pic of the front clip that holds in the arm rest fascia panel. Remember, start from the back and work your way up to this guy.


Remove and set aside fascia panel!!!!


With the fascia removed we can now begin removal of the door panel, but hey, follow the steps!! Unscrew this screw with a #2 phillips.



Disconnect this connector going to the power lock and window controls. Suppress the plastic tab located where my finger is and pull it out (Don't break anything!) *** The connector will come unclipped and be able to be backed out a little. Mine did not come out all the way due to lack of slack in the harness, and that's fine. We'll address it soon enough, just make sure it's unclipped and backed out enough so that it doesn't re-seat ***


Now we come back to the door handle whose screw we already removed. Slide it to the right (toward the car) and pull it out towards you. It'll come out easily. I'll attach an image of the clips that hold it in place so that you can understand what's holding it in and how not to break it.


This image shows the clips holding in the door handle as well as the slots they fit into. Mind you, I had to remove the panel in order to take this image. We're not there yet, I just wanted yuh to see!


The handle comes out and just hangs. No need to detatch the cables that operate the door latch.


Now we start AT THE BOTTOM popping out door panel clips. If you're following along with print-outs from the manual (as you should be!) you'll notice that I'm not using the pry tool where the manual said the clip was. I'll follow with more similar images of where I pried that actually removed the clips. *** None of them broke despite the fact that my tool never caught the actual clips while prying. They just popped right out when I pried in this and the following spots


Spot #2 Just above the speaker


Spot #3, front middle


Spot #4 front upper


Spot #5 rear lower


Spot #6, the final clip!


Now you can lift straight up and free your door panel, but bear in mind that the door handle is still running through it. I'll show you in the next pic how I oriented the handle to get it through the panel without scratching anything.

 

While holding up the door panel I rotated the handle like so to fit out through the panel safely. Feed it through gingerly and claim your prize, a fully removed door panel.


With the panel removed the door handle wanted to sag down on the vapor barrier. I didnt like that cuz said barrier is flimsy and stretches out easily, so I put the handle back into its slots and hand-tightened its screw to keep it there.


Here it is, hand tightened, as promised.


Following along with the manual, next up is the speaker. Remove the screw/bolt as shown here. #2 Phillips.


The manual says to just push up on the speaker, but I don't think I agree. Just pushing up resulted in a broken clip, and also it was freakin stuck. I'll show you why and offer a suggestion in the image below


Here you can see two white tabs on the door that go into the top of the speaker, and you can also see my thumb touching the broken tab that resulted from my simply pushing up. I would suggest instead prying the top of the speaker out, towards you, then pushing up, but please use your own best judgement as I cannot say if my method would have been met with better results. I can say that if you just push up, it'll feel stuck and you'll have to force it.

Things like the above are why I'm typing all this out


Disconnect the speaker's connector and set the speaker aside. Its another simple squeeze clip


Next up, we disconnect this connector and will begin unclipping the harness from the door so that we can fit it out through the vapor barrier.


Here I show off my fancy pry tool at work removing the first clip holding this leg of the harness to the door. I WOULD NOT ADVISE USING A PRY TOOL! In the next two pics I'll show off the clip's design and demonstrate how they could be removed more safely and effectively with a flat head screwdriver, preserving your clips and preventing unnecessary damage to the plastic barrier


Here's the clip design. Note that the two squeezy tabs are in line with how the harness is ran.


Please pry them using a flat head as shown. Pull or pry the clip away from the door enough to get a flat head in there, then press in toward the center of the clip to release one of the two legs, then do the other leg. Using only a pry tool will rip the plastic barrier. At least that's my experience.

There are 3 of the above cable clips. Work them all out the same way.


Next up is these plugs. Another thing you don't want to use a pry tool on!! Instead use your fingernails to lift the rubber up and slowly work the plug out. There are two of these, one in the upper right corner and one in the left upper.


Another shot of the upper right plug


Here's me working off the upper left plug!


Now we unclip the section of harness that went to the door control panel from the door. Its clip also has two legs and is best removed with a flat head, one side at a time.


The harness is now disconnected from the door enough to remove the plastic barrier! We aren't going to try forcing it out through the barrier yet though. Instead, we're going to take the barrier off and slide it around the harness to free it.


So begins the process of gently peeling the plastic away from the miraculously still very sticky/goopy black adhesive that holds it in place. I used my fingers to attempt to get as much of the adhesive as possible to stay on the door while pulling the barrier away. I started on the upper right side and worked my way around


Here's me finishing removal of the barrier. Once it's unbound, slide it off of the harness and set it aside. I'd recommend placing it sticky-side up in your car so that it doesn't blow away or otherwise get damaged/stepped on/whatever


Game called on account of rain. Will pick this back up tomorrow if the weather permits as right now I can't use my car 😂

 

Nicely done so far, Pyts. Even a dummy like me can follow it. I'm staying tuned.

To the stars, my friend.

 

Thanks for tuning in, MC! I finished up the job and, of course, things didn't go quite as expected. But that's what the thread is for! Now to pick up where we left off:


Here's a shot with the liner removed. Getting ready to take out the window when I realized... I had the window all the way up! That's not how motor/regulator removal goes on this car. You lower the window to about midway, unbolt it as I'll demonstrate, then take advantage of its weird geometry to work it up and out of the channel.
To move the window I reconnected the controls on the interior panel.


Here's me holding the electrically reconnected door panel (just that one connector to the controls.) Key to ON II and lowered the window to the height shown in images following



Lower the window like so and the right side bolt will line up with a hole in the door to allow for removal (shown in next image)


Here's a shot of the hole and the two bolts holding the window to the arm. A 10mm socket will get them out. For removal I used a "nut grabber" socket made by koken. I'll show it next, it's totally unnecessary, but the sockets were reasonable and each have a ball detent to help prevent dropping bolts/nuts. In absence of those one might want to have a magnet stick handy just in case


Koken nut grabber. picked up a metric rail from frankstools. I love their neat import tools, but one time the dude didn't ship my pliers, offer a refund, or respond. If there was another place to get some of the stuff..


Remove the bolts!



The window has to be rotated right for removal.


Another pic showing orientation


5 bolts for the window motor regulator assy. All the same length.


Once unbolted, rotate the assembly and unclip the window motor's electrical connector

 

Lower the assembly all the way down and work it under the cables as shown to remove.


With the assembly removed my attention was drawn to the guides, assuming they were responsible for window rattle. While I still believe this to be the case, they seemed to have less play than the Aisin assemblies I replaced them with. Pics to follow



Note some differences..OEM left, Aisin right. Suffice to say Aisin isn't the original manufacturer. And to think I put out extra funds, omitting a full assembly with new motor to get their brand. 🥲 It seems to have even more play at the guide.. But I haven't test driven yet to find out if it vibrates.


The OEM assy. had some cracks in it. I'm not sure how much they affected performance, but they seemed to facilitate movement inboard and outboard (towards and away from the cab)


Close up of the Aisin's guide


And the OEM guide.


3 bolts for the motor swap. Super simple. Don't worry about the cable coming unwound, it's not actually affixed to the motor.


If you should decide to lubricate your assembly (the Aisin came lubed, except where the motor fits into the cable spool) I believe the recommended lubricant (for this, the whole window assembly, and any other plastic gearing nonsense) is Dow Corning Molykote 33. I couldn't find my tube and didn't have a suitable alternative, so I just left the old goop on there. White lith always goops up too fast, as does silicone. I should probably go back and replace the motor anyways.


To avoid future loosening I applied a little permatex PTFE thread locker, just a thin strip to ALL bolts associated with the window assembly. Some seemed to already have traces of white threadlocker.
I fell in love with this stuff after finding out it was recommended for use on cylinder head bolts for an oldish GM i worked on. Super tough, but not impossible to remove UNLESS you're connecting a plastic fitting to metal threads (or vis versa) as with a cheap garden hose. Youd have to cut it off. Seriously.


Install and torque to 86 inch lbs. The glass to assembly called for the same torque, but I have some notes on that.


Dont forget the connector for the motor.


Glass back in. The new guide is all plastic! If you torque the window down you'll make recesses for the bolt heads which will prevent them from re-seating in different positions.. So maybe make sure the window feels good and even! I hooked the door panel up again, holding it. Loosened the bolts to barely snug for the glass, ran the window all the way up and back down to where I could tighten it in attempt to center the glass.. Unfortunately, I'd already made the mistake of compressing the plastic, but maybe you could avoid doing the same?


With the window installed you can put this liner back on. Start with the plugs in the upper right and left corners.


Chase the adhesive around the perimeter of the barrier to reinitiate a seal. If anyone knows what kind of adhesive this is, I'd love to find out. Since rain interrupted me, mine partially dried and no longer seals perfectly.



Barrier in place, clip the two legs of the harness back into the door.


Reinstall speaker


Hold up the door panel and fit the door handle and the control panel connector through, then hang the top edge of the door panel in the window sill up against the glass.


An image of one of the clips used to fasten the door panel. They're great! No breakage.


Press the panel on


Screw!


Fascia panel (left side has a tab that hooks in first)


Fit the door handle in, slide it to the left to line up the screw hole, screw it in AND YOU'RE DONE

I'm certain I posted way more than anyone will need 😂
Hopefully the extra details and emphasis will help someone.

Thanks again for your support, MC. I.. I'm working up to doing better write-ups.

 

Updating after test drive!

The Aisin regulators (up down slidey rail mechanism)
are trash. Did improve window vibration, but didn't resolve it. Their design has too much play. I'll be purchasing Wai Global full assemblies ($60 on rockauto) and doing the job over 😂 I'm confident that will resolve any vibration issues, as the "regulator assembly" is what's responsible for fastening the actual glass to the car. I assume that the window channels are doing their job well enough if they dont leak and the glass doesnt vibrate when the windows are fully closed.

As to why regulators fail (besides wear) as shown in an image above focused on the guide, the guide had cracks in it that seemed to facilitate the window rocking, the top of the window being able to lean in towards the car and out away from it, vs. side to side where play was minimal on the OEM assemblies (but notable on the Aisin assemblies )

I'm confident that replacing the full assembly would resolve the issue as there's really nothing else to consider in regards to causing the fault. Added benefit, you'll get fresh window motors that should go up and down with relative ease provided the channels arent packed with debris.

 

So you need to basically disasemble everything just to get to the power connecter to diagnose and see if the connecter actually has power...if it does then what a waste of time just to diagnose if connecter has power....My issue is fuses are good...all other windows work...the switch assembly has leds/litup...so works fine...(replaced it anyway)..so it has to be the motor/reg?

 

There's not a whole lot to the system. If your window is binding, it may cause the motor not to close -- cant recall, but pretty sure it has that safety feature.
Besides that, what else could it be? Once it gets voltage, and the switch is engaged ~ it should do the thing

 

Wow! That was a great writeup!

I have a 2010 Fit Sport, no window problems so far. It was interesting to look at your pics of the inside of the door. Thanks!