Long standing issue (we're talking years) in my 2011 Fit Sport M/T, which I've owned since new: the driver's door power unlock and lock switch only works intermittently (so I have to hit it multiple times to work), but lock/unlock function works perfectly every time by remote keyfob. You'd think it would just be the switch or the wiring through the door, but I've swapped out the master window switch (it's all one piece) multiple times to no effect. To address the wiring, traced the circuit with the help of the schematic, and holy hell is the under dash wiring a mess (see photo). Unlike what the schematic claims (see photo), the "Keyless Receiver Unit" (blue arrow on the photo of the actual wiring) circuit T's into the lock and unlock wires (red arrow) going into the MICU instead of handling it all through the B-CAN bus.

As a test to bypass the manual switch and the wiring to the door, I grounded the unlock circuit (which is all the switch does, otherwise the circuit seems to be pulled up to battery voltage internal to the MICU) at the T-connector to an under-dash chassis ground and the same behavior occurs - unlock (or lock) only works part of the time when I do that. Threw the o-scope on the unlock circuit and when operating it by the door switch, and it's bouncy as hell (see photo). Was ready to gripe about the horrible switch debouncing by Honda, but then wondered if the Keyless Receiver Unit is introducing a weird load on the circuit that's messing it up. Problem is that I can't disconnect that spade connector going into the T to test that theory without risking ripping out wires (it's in there really good), which I'm not willing to do.

I'm more impressed (saddened) with how much of a hack job the circuit from the remote is - looks like something aftermarket but I don't know why they would have needed to resort to that, but given all the T-connectors and butt connectors I just assume that's what happened...? I'd really love to hear if that's just my car or if everyone else's 2nd gen looks like that. And yup, that ring connector has just been hanging out there connected to nothing for as long as I've had the car...

 

I'll get you a shot of the wiring tomorrow. You said you had yours since it was new?..
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Brand new in August 2011 from Berkeley Honda here in northern California. Appreciate the effort if you still have time to get a shot. The curiosity is killing me.

 

What is it that you are asking??

I know for sure those red female wire taps are not OEM. They should be removed asap. Overtime from the vibrations the wire taps will eventually "sever" the wires and you will need to solder them back together.

 

Sh*t, I knew there was a thread I forgot to reply to. I'm car-less 'til tonight, stuck at home working on our truck. I'll take the pic for you this evening.

 

Did you end up using sea foam in the engine for the gunk?

 

Lightning storm. I'll get it in the A.M.

 

Tried to snap as many pics as I could before the fit was borrowed again.





This one shows a thick guage wire (maybe 14g) with a light blue butt connector. I apologize, I'd be naming colors but I'm red/green colorblind.



This pic I marked up with a black arrow. One wire has two red heatshrink repairs on it from when I added and then removed throttle controller wiring/repaired some jacket damage.
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@mykizism I've got a full thread loaded with pics going on tacoma world. Here's the link. I'm planning to run one flush with liquimoly engine cleaner once I finish reassembly. Goop in the timing cover and oil pan was removed manually. I felt a bit silly trying to wipe the cast aluminum of the timing cover and decided to just use a pressure washer. Which was also silly, but did work.
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It turned into a full timing chain job, and I'm glad it did. While the timing was good, I believe the crankshaft balance chain (manufacturer added that chain assembly to the 2.7L engine to counteract vibration caused by increased stroke) was not properly aligned - and its guides were almost worn through. I'm hoping that was the cause of engine vibration that I'd been scratching my head over for the past couple years.

 

I can't believe OEM uses those red wire taps from the factory.. I'm going to have to check my car to see if it has the same stuff going on there.

Check out sea foam that stuff cleans metal and internals great.

 

I failed to mention the nature of the butt connector. I think I'd spotted a damaged wire when I first went to install a throttle controller, and because of space constraints and my (formerly strict) commitment to soldered connections, I couldn't repair it. My neighbor helped me out and was likely the one to install said connector. I was in no position to pass judgement

I was and am still taken aback by the wiring in my Fit. It's such a mess! BUT everything functions as it should, "quick" disconnects and all. If you'd be willing to share, I'd love to see how your wiring looks @mykizism

The red heat shrink is the only work I've done in there. It was likely also messed with by the previous owner (purchased at 35k miles). One of the hole covers next to the traction control button has a hole drilled in it - not sure what was formerly installed.

Oh, and I'll keep seafoam in mind. I opted to use our pressure washer on the removed timing cover instead - admittedly a silly choice.

 

I`ll try and get some pics of my under dash wiring soon. Curious to see if mine has the same aftermarket looking wire taps.

 

There is an aftermarket device of some sort installed on your car. Remote start, alarm system...something. None of that is OEM level wiring and most certainly not OEM Honda accessories installed at the port. The twisted wires are classic signs of an alarm or remote start.