What if you drained the fluid and then started the car for a few seconds...........would that result in more fluid draining?

Z

 

I change my transmission fluid using the noob method

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ill-flush.html

 

I do not see how. The transmission would not be doing anything when you are parked.

Maybe I'm missing something.

 

Yes it will but not the way you think. The transmission pumps from the drain pan through the transmission and away from the transmission around and back to the pan. So yes, it will work, but you need to close up the drain hole, fill the pan (about 3 qts), then run the engine for 5-8 seconds to remove a qt from the hose, fill a qt, repeat a few more times for a complete drain and flush. See my link above to the noob method for complete instructions.

 

Ok.......Thanks guys.............

Z

 

Why would you risk transmission damage? Just drain it and fill it. If you want to get fancy change the transmission filter (25430-PLR-003). You will get a little more out of there.
Changed mine in 2019. I used about 2.9 quarts, but I spilled a little and what was in the old filter, so the 3 quarts I had worked out perfect.

 

You've missed the whole point of doing a fluid change............maybe you should inform yourself by reading a bit more about it.........lol

Z

 

SiXiam did the Honda-recommended procedure, which seems perfectly adequate if you follow the recommended mileage or time intervals for service.

There are plenty of posts here about folks doing more intricate procedures (e.g., repeated ATF changes at 100 mile intervals) to change a greater percentage of their ATF. There's nothing wrong with that if it floats your boat and you don't mind the added expense in time, money, and waste materials, but it's probably not necessary for a typical driver.

 

The "Noob" method I referred to only takes an extra 15 minutes and changes 100% of fluid instead of 40% of simple drain. Yes it costs a little more for the extra fluid, but it is a minor cost. The transmission having all new fluid probably saves a lot in transmission repair costs down the road, too. Plus, after the "noob flush", the transmission is silky smooth (really can notice it). It shifts like the car is new again. If you are doing an ATF drain every 15,000 city miles or (30,000 highway) it may not be necessary, but it's not that much of a cost in time and expense. Plus, many people do not change their transmission fluid regularly. SiXiam also changed the transmission filter (I have too) and that takes significantly longer than the few minutes the "Noob" method adds. When I change my engine oil, I try to get as close to all the old fluid out, and I can not notice the difference driving after doing an oil change. Why not do the same for the transmission and have the added benefit of the smoother transmission shifting? For me, it is worth it for the silky smooth shifting and knowing the transmission should last as long as I own the car without issues.

 

Bingo. Those are the people you need to convince, not the folks who follow recommended maintenance procedures.

I have no issues with going above-and-beyond when it comes to maintenance. In a different post I recently wrote about my (sometimes painful) winter car washing procedures to try to keep my MA cars from rusting so I'm "guilty" too.

I know of a great many cars, from the 1978 Buick LeSabre my dad drove when I was a kid into the 2010s, that have had no engine or transmission issues over 250K-300K miles following manufacturer fluid change recommendations. At that stage, the Midwestern vehicles were retired from excessive rust damage so the ultimate lifespan of the drivetrain was unknown.

I do think you're being a bit conservative by saying that only 40% of the ATF is changed following the recommended procedure, but I've never measured. I'm going to be changing mine in the next month or so (3 years, between 15K-16K miles) so I will measure. I'm also thinking about changing the filter as the 2010 car now has 120K miles and it couldn't hurt.

I haven't read your Noob procedure post so I'll check that out as well. It's always useful to learn something new.

 

Per Honda:

Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity:

2.5 L (2.6 US qt) at change

5.85 L (6.18 US qt) at overhaul
So, 2.6/6.18 = 42.07%

 

My GE matches that 2.6 QT number exactly when I do the job without filter change. For what it's worth, I changed the filter once at 60K Miles and it took about 3.5 QT.

 

That is strange such a large half quart difference between mine and yours after changing the inline filter.

 

Also for what it's worth, for people who've never done this, it's important to follow the procedure in the owner's manual, idling the engine until the cooling fan comes on, then shutting the engine off, then quickly pulling the dipstick, wiping it and inserting it to check the level. Definitely not like checking the engine oil level.