2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

K20 Fit - Garage FK

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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 09:49 PM
  #41  
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Must be crazy tight in the engine bay. No pics with the front end on?
 
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:30 AM
  #42  
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also a k20z3 barley makes 200+HP with bolt ons and a reflash since k pro is not made for this motor
 
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:48 AM
  #43  
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Running 17s on the front and 15's in the rear would be similar to swapping out to a really stiff rear anti sway bar, because it lets you slide out the rear a lil bit, and like many others said, it saves rotational weight.

But allowing a lil sidewall roll in the rear would let it more or less just drag the ass end of the car with more steering response in the front. Thats how my lil bro's hatch was with the h22 in it, you almost bank on the sidewalls sliding out. In my accord I run softer front shock settings and harder rear settings rather than reverse stagger wheels, and it handles even better.
 
Old Mar 9, 2009 | 08:29 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by redrumm
also a k20z3 barley makes 200+HP with bolt ons and a reflash since k pro is not made for this motor
the K20z3 and tranny comes with the 4.7 final drive, and its a little more then 200 with intake,race header, exhuast, plus reflash. either way 4.7 final drive is the key, or you could upgrade to the jdm cr-v final drive 5.062.
 
Old Mar 11, 2009 | 03:25 PM
  #45  
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haha check this video out....
YouTube - vtec war 1
 
Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:51 PM
  #46  
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:54 PM
  #47  
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that doesn't look like a typical k20 dyno on hondata.
that's pretty linear! not bad
 
Old Mar 11, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #48  
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its honda reflash. its on there site under k20z3
 
Old Mar 11, 2009 | 11:58 PM
  #49  
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you could get better numbers with a real header, DC is not worth it IMO. They are cheap and you have better flow but they are crap, sorry. Same goes for some AEMs suction kits, some stock air boxes give you more power than those. BTW you can get 200+ with just bolt ons on a K20Z3, you just need to get good things that really give you what you want.

BTW look for the size of the J's GD, they are bigger in fronts too.
 

Last edited by hondaacclx84; Mar 12, 2009 at 12:00 AM.
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 08:41 AM
  #50  
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lol, i give up on this argument, if you want a 1.5 liter, then stay L15, if you want a powerplant worth anything go k20, yeah its expensive to build both, but in the end i would want reliability and a built L15 probly aint gonna be to reliable for 100,000 miles, but we all know a stock k20 would be, and the 93whp L15 aint gonna cut it for me.
 
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 09:10 AM
  #51  
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then i guess your sticking with bolt ons? haha
 
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 05:00 PM
  #52  
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me too would stick w/ the L15 until I think I'm ready for the next step. That's when the car reach a lot and I mean a lot of miles
 
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