What did you do to your GE fit today?
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 45
From: Pullman
Yeah I heard some negatives about Morimotos too, As with any aftermarket part their quality control and margin for error is greater but i guess it really depends on your specific unit, overall though the Mori's sound like the best in terms of aftermarket. I'll update once I get the set. Then I just gotta wait for my FX-R's =D
My ebay $50 HID kit is working awesome so far, with about 3 months under their belt. bulb warmup is smooth and about 5-6 seconds to full light brightness.
Every HID kit Ive seen that has the bulbs at full brightness right away has always been a ticking bomb before a ballast or bulb blows out.
You can tell part of a kits quality by how they handle the bulbs from off to full brightness. The smoother it is, the longer lasting the bulb and ballast USUALLY are.
Every HID kit Ive seen that has the bulbs at full brightness right away has always been a ticking bomb before a ballast or bulb blows out.
You can tell part of a kits quality by how they handle the bulbs from off to full brightness. The smoother it is, the longer lasting the bulb and ballast USUALLY are.
Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,779
From: edmonton, canada
My ebay $50 HID kit is working awesome so far, with about 3 months under their belt. bulb warmup is smooth and about 5-6 seconds to full light brightness.
Every HID kit Ive seen that has the bulbs at full brightness right away has always been a ticking bomb before a ballast or bulb blows out.
You can tell part of a kits quality by how they handle the bulbs from off to full brightness. The smoother it is, the longer lasting the bulb and ballast USUALLY are.
Every HID kit Ive seen that has the bulbs at full brightness right away has always been a ticking bomb before a ballast or bulb blows out.
You can tell part of a kits quality by how they handle the bulbs from off to full brightness. The smoother it is, the longer lasting the bulb and ballast USUALLY are.
The problem is when these aftermarket ballasts encounter real winter like weather, (ie. -40C cold starts) they usually need a second or third attempt to get running.
According to TRS, it's something to do with there being inadequate voltage for that temperature range and thus the arc is not established.
The new ones are supposed to be "beefier" in this regard to address the cold start issues. My replacement ballasts are on their way, so I can't say if they've really fixed this issue yet. But for now, my original morimoto ballasts work OK in the cold.
NVM, found it on their site - K-Swap Package for Drivetrain by Hybrid Racing (88-00 Civic/CRX & 93-97 Del Sol & 94-01 Integra) | Hybrid Racing. Guess you do have a K motor!
This is exactly what my current morimoto ballasts do.
The problem is when these aftermarket ballasts encounter real winter like weather, (ie. -40C cold starts) they usually need a second or third attempt to get running.
According to TRS, it's something to do with there being inadequate voltage for that temperature range and thus the arc is not established.
The new ones are supposed to be "beefier" in this regard to address the cold start issues. My replacement ballasts are on their way, so I can't say if they've really fixed this issue yet. But for now, my original morimoto ballasts work OK in the cold.
The problem is when these aftermarket ballasts encounter real winter like weather, (ie. -40C cold starts) they usually need a second or third attempt to get running.
According to TRS, it's something to do with there being inadequate voltage for that temperature range and thus the arc is not established.
The new ones are supposed to be "beefier" in this regard to address the cold start issues. My replacement ballasts are on their way, so I can't say if they've really fixed this issue yet. But for now, my original morimoto ballasts work OK in the cold.
mine worked fine in -10 degree temps with windchill of -35. (wisconsin, late Nov, early Dec 2013)
Im tempted to believe my ebay HIDs will easily last at least 3-4 years, which is perfectly reasonable due to their small cost.
Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,779
From: edmonton, canada
Windchill is only meaningful for perceived temperature on skin and does not affect ballasts that are shielded under your hood.
When I say it gets to -40c(-40f) here, I mean without windchill. I'm sure almost all aftermarket ballasts will have some issues at these temperatures.
I wish I could say our winters were that short too.. But it ain't gunna warm up here till March or April unfortunately.
When I say it gets to -40c(-40f) here, I mean without windchill. I'm sure almost all aftermarket ballasts will have some issues at these temperatures.
I wish I could say our winters were that short too.. But it ain't gunna warm up here till March or April unfortunately.
Last edited by connor55; Jan 26, 2014 at 04:19 PM.
When I say it gets to -40c(-40f) here, I mean without windchill. I'm sure almost all aftermarket ballasts will have some issues at these temperatures. I wish I could say our winters were that short too.. But it ain't gunna warm up here till March or April unfortunately.
We really need some rain though I wish you guys would push some of that water snow stuff this way.
Edit: also went to local canyon, was fun, weather brought out all the Harleys though so you know how that goes ughhhh lol
Last edited by Wanderer.; Jan 26, 2014 at 07:57 PM.
I was wondering where you were from cause it's FREEZING and windy in Minnesota. LOL. Canada eh?Question for ya, are you interested in any racing events?
Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,779
From: edmonton, canada
We've been going with the same set up for a few years now: upgraded front brakes, stainless steel brake lines, upgraded DOT4 brake fluid, rear sway bar, tires&rims...and that's about it