When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-14-HONDA-FIT-GE8-JDM-RS-Mugen-style-Side-Skirts-UNPAINTED-PP-/171943269566?hash=item28089e14be
Has anyone ordered a pair of this ? I've already quoted these skirts on local shop in fiberglass painted but don't know if polypropylene would be a better material in the long run.
I remember Andrew mentioned that it requires some slight modification to get it to fit. Am I remembering correctly? How did the install go?
Yes you do have to drill holes into your bumper to fit the new grill. The new holes you still will be visible if your replace the mugen grill back to the stock grill so be warned. Overall it was an easy install if you have removed the grill before.
Has anyone ordered a pair of this ? I've already quoted these skirts on local shop in fiberglass painted but don't know if polypropylene would be a better material in the long run.
Fiberglass for a side skirt is an acceptable material. Polyurethane is better for front bumpers and front lips because it is a bendable plastic so it is more durable if it gets damaged as most damage does come from the front. Fiberglass will tear and brake apart. But for a side skirt area which doesn't normally get too much damage it should be fine.
Using Stainless Steel wire ropes and some swaging I was able create a device to limit rear trailing arm travel without modifying the damper, thus eliminate the need for helper springs, which was causing some weird behaviour from trailing arm deflection during turns and bumps.
The rubber isolator for the Bilstein rear adjustable spring perch was modified from Honda factory part, which provided much more surface area compared to the Bilstein part.
The ropes have a 290lbs working strength and 1450lbs breaking strength per side, so should be plenty strong for the application.
I'll be putting up more pictures in my build thread.
almost missed this post with those flossed cheeks below...
anyways is this rig to keep your springs from jumping out if you catch air time? or is it purely to save your dampers? love to hear about how its working
almost missed this post with those flossed cheeks below...
anyways is this rig to keep your springs from jumping out if you catch air time? or is it purely to save your dampers? love to hear about how its working
That's pretty much the idea... Basically the Wire shortens the damper stroke by about 1.3 inches and is at slack majority of the time, and only comes into effect when the car catches air time or when servicing the car. Without it the spring wouldn't self locate once the rear trailing arm spring seat length extends past the springs' free length, which would understandably be quite dangerous on the road.
The proper way to do this would be to shorten the damper rod length or shim its travel, but I don't have access to that sort of service where I live...
Anyway its been 2 weeks since it was installed, and have yet to experience any problem. I made sure everything was taut, and there were no point of contact that would cause noise inside the cabin. Also at full droop it was able to hold my weight hanging off one wheel easily, so I feel pretty confident about the whole setup.
The only issue I can imagine is work hardening of the wire rope from vibration and general suspension movement... although I can not find any article on the topic, I'll be keeping an eye on it.
Last edited by eternal_fantasy; Sep 23, 2015 at 01:25 PM.
Has anyone ordered a pair of this ? I've already quoted these skirts on local shop in fiberglass painted but don't know if polypropylene would be a better material in the long run.
That's pretty much the idea... Basically the Wire shortens the damper stroke by about 1.3 inches and is at slack majority of the time, and only comes into effect when the car catches air time or when servicing the car. Without it the spring wouldn't self locate once the rear trailing arm spring seat length extends past the springs' free length, which would understandably be quite dangerous on the road.
The proper way to do this would be to shorten the damper rod length or shim its travel, but I don't have access to that sort of service where I live...
Anyway its been 2 weeks since it was installed, and have yet to experience any problem. I made sure everything was taut, and there were no point of contact that would cause noise inside the cabin. Also at full droop it was able to hold my weight hanging off one wheel easily, so I feel pretty confident about the whole setup.
The only issue I can imagine is work hardening of the wire rope from vibration and general suspension movement... although I can not find any article on the topic, I'll be keeping an eye on it.
So with these, when you jack up your car, your springs won't fall out? That has to be one of the biggest pains of using coilovers for me. I jack up the front and have to guide the spring back in on the rear lol. If you were to make some more of these, how much would you sell them for?
So with these, when you jack up your car, your springs won't fall out? That has to be one of the biggest pains of using coilovers for me. I jack up the front and have to guide the spring back in on the rear lol. If you were to make some more of these, how much would you sell them for?
AFAIK there should be no need for this with a full coilover kit, especially on the N+ where afaik the damper can be shortened via the threaded body?
Do you mind taking a picture of your rear damper and spring setup? Riding on springs that can potentially fall out on big bumps seems super risky...
