Oh don't worry about it I just wanted to get back to you when I read it!

That >35C air is whats holding you back. The 95RON is good stuff! You HKS exhaust is hopefully 60mm, at least. So while on the small side it should flow enough for your needs at this point in time!

Sounds like your intercooler is doing a really good job in that weather! And slip is the enemy we were talking about earlier! Creates lots of heat, which is where the ATF coolers and temp gauge come in to play!

196whp is still really good and puts you right where I was estimating a manual trans in 20C weather on 0.8 bar boost (21-22lbs/min) so you are probably moving a bit more than that or you have a really nice core and good fuel considering 35-40C is like 95-105F.


So that tells me your Intercooler is helping a lot and it also shows that there is not a whole lot of power lost through the auto trans even when slipping, which is impressive!

I believe on a 25-30C day you would easily make 200whp on your current tune!


Even on the same tune the amount of power you make changes daily with fuel and the weather, so I think you are doing pretty well for the setup you currently have.

The only parts left for you to get will be trans temp gauge, fan for your big ATF cooler, metal intake manifold, and maybe a methanol injection kit when your budget allows!

The methanol and/or water will make your tune safer and allow for more power at the same boost! It is basically like flipping a switch and having the air temperature drop as much as from 40C to 15C!

What the water or meth does is cool the charge and can drop combustion chamber temps as much as 145C. This is what lets you run more boost and more timing! The methanol actually provides a second fuel as well, and is basically like running a race gas tune for cheap, depending on the mixture.

So if you do not have access to methanol like we do you can use regular water to achieve a similar effect!

 

95RON but it mean up to 95 in indonesia..haha..
not 196 whp but just 196 hp on crank.,,,
the intercooler is from the hks turbo kits package..
so the intercooler customize by hks itself..
yes i will buy titanium manifold first..
but so expensive.. the price it's about $1000...
yes i'm so interesting about methanol sprayer kit,,
i will buy that after i buy the manifold..
if spray the intercooler manually before i run the drag race is it will give a little effect to the power? sounds ridiculous yeah?ahaha

 

Oh I am used to the octane rating being the minimum you'll get.

How did they measure crank horsepower on a chassis dyno?

Is the only manifold available titanium? There are no other metal intakes? $1000 is a lot!

And yes until you get a real injection system you can spray or ice down the intercooler, but it will not work nearly as well. People do that here as well!

 

I mean on flywheel.. Ohh this afternoon my tuner retune my car and it ran about 202 hp on flywheel..
Stainless is about $850 item only not include the installation.. And yes $1000 is a lot... but the titanium intake is a special made by weapon R..and it's include installation and retune...and it much cooler than stainless..(The promotion of the seller lol)..

 

I mean on flywheel.. Ohh this afternoon my tuner retune my car and it ran about 202 hp on flywheel..
Stainless is about $850 item only not include the installation.. And yes $1000 is a lot... but the titanium intake is a special made by weapon R..and it's include installation and retune...and it much cooler than stainless..(The promotion of the seller lol)..should I buy it?

 

How are they getting a flywheel reading? They have to remove the engine from the car to put it on a stand for that..

Are they using a correction for transmission losses?

If they are strapping your car to the rollers they should be giving you a wheel horsepower rating?

Anyways, you need a metal intake manifold at some point, and if the manifold, install and tune is $1000 that doesn't sound as bad.. but it better be an awesome intake manifold

Should help you move more air in the upper rpm range and hold up to high boost! Except now you will be able to waaayyy outflow the turbo.

 

no my car run on fly wheel...and the engine still in the car..
just like this(not my car) >>
yes the car is strapping to the rollers..

my dyno result
for horsepower

for torque


yes my target is to but the titanaium manifold first!!
that was the most awesome manifold for GE...

and i don't know much about the trans...
should i swap to the manual trans?
the japanesse tuner offer me a racing automatic paddle shifter..
and omg the price is so so so so so expensive..
the price is about 7500 bucks...i better "harakiri" myself.. LOL
for racing manual trans is about $4200!

 

no my car run on fly wheel...and the engine still in the car..
just like this(not my car) >>
yes the car is strapping to the rollers..

my dyno result
for horsepower

for torque


yes my target is to but the titanaium manifold first!!
that was the most awesome manifold for GE...

and i don't know much about the trans...
should i swap to the manual trans?
the japanesse tuner offer me a racing automatic paddle shifter..
and omg the price is so so so so so expensive..
the price is about 7500 bucks...i better "harakiri" myself.. LOL
for racing manual trans is about $4200!

 

Are you busy dsm??

 

Hey sorry, I have been very busy and falling behind on PM's and replies.

Anyways, if you are going to do a transmission swap, I would definitely go manual trans.

Doesn't have to be a $4000 race trans either... the stock manual seems to be pretty stout, you will want a stronger clutch disk and pressure plate though.

I definitely would not spend $7000 on an auto trans for a Fit, race or otherwise.

So if you do a trans swap go for a stock manual trans, and then use the money left over for a bigger turbo, bigger injectors and a water injection kit

How do you like the new manifold?

 

hahaha...
how about my dyno? thats good enough?
but now i searchin for automatic clutch disk...hehe
i'm confuse about go to manual trans or buy a new manifold..

 

That dyno looks good, that is a really nice usable power curve but only 190lb-ft of torque (263Nm) seems low for that turbo when making that much hp.
could be the weather or the tune so tough to say.

Automatics don't have a clutch the same way a manual does.

There are clutches in an auto but, in a traditional manual the clutch is made up of the flywheel and pressure plate which is attached to the crankshaft and the clutch disc which sits between the flywheel and the pressure plate, but the disc is attached to the transmission input shaft.

In an auto trans you have what is called a flex-plate, and then you have the torque converter which is attached to the input shaft.

The end-clutches are what helps select gears instead of merely engaging the transmission.

So I would keep the transmission you have and get the manifold.

I am trying to look for a way to increase line pressure to reduce slipping in the GE transmissions.

This would not only improve acceleration, but it would reduce heat and make shifts firmer!

So keep your auto for now, get a metal intake manifold and then retune.

After that then we can talk about transmission swap and whether or not it is worth your time and money!

 

Okay I aim to metal intake manifold first..
Do you know what must I do to make this automatic transmission doesn't slip and deliver perfect power for wheels?
There is custom flex-plate or something that make it runs well?

 

I'm surprised that there isn't even a blip where vtec kicks in. These leads me to believe that the restriction is not in the valves or the cam profile.

 

All you can do to an auto to reduce or eliminate slip is to increase line pressure. And even that only helps to a point since clutches will eventually slip when you over torque them past their frictional limit regardless of how much line pressure you supply them with.

 

Well except for the fact that friction is a coefficient.. so if you increase the clamping force (line pressure) torque capacity goes up, until the material limit is reached.

Which is why when you change pressure plates on a manual but leave the disc the same the torque capacity is affected.

Also, if you noticed I was discussing finding a way to improve line pressure in the post he was quoting. Line pressure does actually change the amount of torque the trans can deal with in addition to fighting slip.

The next step is modifying the TC and then the clutchpacks.

But for his goals the stock clutch packs should be fine.

 

For your info dsm.. The hks downpipe, center pipe is about under 2 inchi.. Is designed by hks to support 0.35 bar.. So is better for me to build new pipes? Do you have a suggestion for the pipes? Or can design some great pipes for my car?

 

2" inside diameter = 51mm way too small unfortunately! That is a big restriction to power.

You're going to need anywhere between 65-75mm inside diameter to flow 250whp worth of air, and at least 65mm to let your engine flow 200whp worth of air.

So the biggest exhaust you can fit would be the way to go!

But....... then the problem is that the intake side of the turbo is too small for your engine after 5500rpm! And if you put a bigger intake (compressor side) on your turbo, the exhaust (turbine side) becomes a restriction.

So on a bigger exhaust you will choke on your T25 turbo and need to upgrade. This is why I don't recommend the GT25 sized turbos for L15A unless it is at the very smallest a GT2560

Basically I recommend saving up money then sell your current exhaust and turbo to buy a slightly bigger turbo.

Once you have the new turbo, have someone make you a custom fit 75mm exhaust system from the turbo back!

Because I know space is limited you should switch to a Mitsubishi turbo. Like a 14B or 16G compressor with a TD05H turbine. One that has an outlet that looks like this:


Then you can buy a flange like this:

And have an exhaust shop make you a downpipe. Then have the downpipe connect to the rest of your new 75mm exhaust with a V-band clamp. Now you have the perfect turbo and exhaust system for your goals, and still has room to up the boost to make more power in the future. Combined with your new Titanium intake manifold you will have a real monster.

And this way if you upgrade turbos again later, you can keep your new exhaust and just have a new downpipe section made for the new turbo!

This the best most cost effective way you could do it.

 

To take advantage of any turbo you are going to want to seperate the wastegate discharge from the turbine discharge and have them join together downstream if you intend to recirculate the wastegate. Like this:

 

Thanks very very big thanks......
So I keep the money for the bigger turbo and bigger exhaust system rite??
I know it will make very loud sound.. And some sound pollution..hahaha but it's the only way to make a real GE MONSTER..hehe..
And now my car runs on 202 hp and it is not too noisy..
Some my friends shocked because my car ran fast but the sound is not so loud..
Oohh today I buy 2 gauge meter for my car..
Water temp and oil press meter.. It's right or not dsm??