So, I have a 2009 Fit 5-spd and cannot get a code read from the auto stores due to Corona. Here are the symptoms and what I have done...

Valve Adjustment at 200k Car now has 207k. Everything was fine up until now...
Replaced a MAF sensor about 1000 miles ago. Got a CEL and changed it. Different reaction when going out vs what I am getting now.

What I am getting...

Call dies at idle. I need to constantly rev the engine above 1500 rpms to maintain operation. Has thrown a CEL, but the reader I have does not work with Hondas and no parts store will scan due to the virus.

I suspect my answers will be with the engine light and have a code reader from amazon coming, but will take a while. Just figured maybe someone has experienced this and would know.

One thing that does stand out is that the car was driven last in severe rain and went through a ton of watered down roads. The bottom plastic tray that goes under the motor is missing - bought it that way - and could be an issue with water, but not sure what below would cause this. Airbox has no water in it - wasn't like I was driving through flooded roads, but was dry nonetheless.

Just looking for ideas and did a search but stalling goes into several rabbit holes... Runs good on top and everywhere else. No stuttering or lagging through the rev range.

 

Guy at Autozone this morning allowed me to use the code reader. Policy is that they cannot due to the Corona Virus. Totally understand... Anyways, showed a mis-fire of Cylinder 3!! So, getting new packs!

 

Did your new coil packs fix the issue?

What you describe above sounds indicative of a stuck/failing EGR valve.

For what it's worth, I had the same issues arise after sustained driving in hard rain, twice within a month. The first time I received a bad MAF code and replaced it, which seemed to fix it. Turns out it was a red herring; the issue was a sticking EGR valve that would remain open and keep the car from starting/idling, and greatly hindered low-speed drivability.

Removing and cleaning the valve is simple as pie: Just remove the two fasteners holding it to the manifold, spray/brush the plunger assembly with some carb cleaner and then work it back and forth with some needle nose pliers to free it up so it moves smoothly, ensuring that it "snaps back" to the closed position (default position) without getting hung up.


YMMV.