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Another GE8 / 09' Wheel "No Rubbing" Thread

  #81  
Old 07-27-2010, 09:05 AM
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As soon as I seen gramps come out of the house, I knew you was from Hawaii hahaha, I scrolled up then saw the safety check and confirmed.. Scrolled back up some more and saw you parked near Dole Cannery and knew you were in Honolulu.. HA!

Anyways, my plan is to pick up some gramlights 17X7, I don't even know what offset to go with, I just want some deep dish and flush mount action.. I'm thinking +40 but everyone's cautioning against that..

I don't really mind if I have to go with smaller tires, I just don't like that overly stretched look, or a really mean camber. I think 2 degrees would be max. I'm ok with rolling fenders.. Do you think I could do a 17X7 +38 on 195/40X17 with a buddy club drop without rubbing?
 
  #82  
Old 07-27-2010, 11:26 AM
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for you guys who have rolled your fenders and trimmed your inner fender, do you have pics of how much you trimmed off? thanks in advance!
 
  #83  
Old 12-26-2010, 05:01 AM
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Cool

195/50/16 +40 on Pro Kit?
 
  #84  
Old 02-20-2011, 11:51 PM
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heres my set up I want... will it rub??

rims: 17x7.5 4x100 +45mm offset
tires: 205/40x17
lowering springs: Swift Springs or RS*R
 
  #85  
Old 02-21-2011, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by prim3tim3
heres my set up I want... will it rub??

rims: 17x7.5 4x100 +45mm offset
tires: 205/40x17
lowering springs: Swift Springs or RS*R

Its close to rubbing. The 45 mm offset is good but the 205 width is the risk. It depends on the actual tread width so check with tire rack for the actual tread width. I know 195/40x17 works with 45 mm if you aren't dropped a lot, say more than 2 inches, but 205 is cutting it close.
 
  #86  
Old 03-03-2011, 02:20 PM
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so, a 16x7 +38 will rub on my 09? stock height by the way! lmk asap this is ridiculous!
 
  #87  
Old 03-03-2011, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Jango_Fit
so, a 16x7 +38 will rub on my 09? stock height by the way! lmk asap this is ridiculous!

If you mount 205/50x16 tires on 38 mm offset wheels you're likely to rub.
Here they have definitely.
 
  #88  
Old 03-03-2011, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mahout
If you mount 205/50x16 tires on 38 mm offset wheels you're likely to rub.
Here they have definitely.
so what size should i run? the stock 185's on em or 195/55/16? And would that even remedy the prob?
 
  #89  
Old 03-03-2011, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jango_Fit
so what size should i run? the stock 185's on em or 195/55/16? And would that even remedy the prob?

If I have your situation correct, you have a set of 16x7 wheels with 38 mm offset in spite of hundreds of posters saying 42 mm is the minimum offset that can work and then you have to use narrow tires.
The 185/55x16's are possible but not garanteed. If you can get them 185/50x16 tires probably will work and won't add much gap nor affect speedo and odo readings much.
Try taping 5/8" thick insulation toi your stock tires and see if they are rubbed off. Ours here did scrape off so can't recommend them. But you might be lucky.
 
  #90  
Old 03-06-2011, 08:32 AM
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I have T1R S-coils and 15x7 Buddy Club P1's ( +38 offet) and 205/55/R15's. No rubbing, not even in turns.

Anyone have any input as to how much offset you can run in the front with 15's? I'm looking to buying some 2mm spacers for f/r and I assume I'll be okay.
 
  #91  
Old 03-24-2011, 04:09 AM
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im on GE8, front 2 finger gap, rear 3 finger gap.

tyre: Potenza Adrenaline RE001 205/45/16 (Made in Japan),
rim: Replica Type F SSR, 16 inch 4x100 16x7jj, offset 42

looks like my ride can go lower. NO Rubbing issues at all.

thinking of going 1 finger gap at front, and 2 finger gap at back.

will it rub?
 
  #92  
Old 03-24-2011, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Azizul Zulzaha
im on GE8, front 2 finger gap, rear 3 finger gap.

tyre: Potenza Adrenaline RE001 205/45/16 (Made in Japan),
rim: Replica Type F SSR, 16 inch 4x100 16x7jj, offset 42

looks like my ride can go lower. NO Rubbing issues at all.

thinking of going 1 finger gap at front, and 2 finger gap at back.

will it rub?

You're at the limits of known no-problem fitment issues. The tire is a quarter-inch shorter, the 7" rim is OK, and the 42 mm offset is right at the limit. The only 'safe' offset is 45 mm.
I suggest you be very careful with lowering a half-inch as have seen those at 42 mm offset who did have an issue or two. Only 195/45x16 worked.
Then again, they may have been lowered more than a half-inch; do you know where you can get springs that lower your present ride by only a half-inch, especially if you are stock ?
Good luck.
 

Last edited by mahout; 03-24-2011 at 12:38 PM.
  #93  
Old 03-24-2011, 06:06 PM
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Hey Guys,

Wheels Im looking at our 17x7 +45. Im looking at them on Tirerack. When I click to find tires for it Tirerack selects a 205/45/17 size. After selecting a tire it gives me this message:

Important Notes:
Aggresive fitment! Requires fender lip modification. Any wheel fitment with less than ET45 may require some camber adjustment depending on the car.

From what I have read on this thread, the soft stock suspension can have some issues with this on bumps, due to the suspension travel, right? But I am planning to run a set of coilovers as well to lower the height, which will stiffen the suspension as well.

My question is will a set of 17x7 +45 wheels on a lowered GE8 with coils(lower and stiffer ride) rub with 205/45/17 tires? Or should I go ahead and get a 205/40/17 tire? Is it the witdh of the wheel or the height(profile) that would cause the rubbing issue?
I really dont want a 195 size tire. I like a little tire over the wheel. Basically Im trying for this look, which I had in one of my old cars:



Would appreciate any replies. No guesses please. Not trying to be rude, but when it come to tires, wheels and suspension its better not to guess.

Thanks in advance
 
  #94  
Old 03-25-2011, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Cornerstrike
Hey Guys,

Wheels Im looking at our 17x7 +45. Im looking at them on Tirerack. When I click to find tires for it Tirerack selects a 205/45/17 size. After selecting a tire it gives me this message:

Important Notes:
Aggresive fitment! Requires fender lip modification. Any wheel fitment with less than ET45 may require some camber adjustment depending on the car.

From what I have read on this thread, the soft stock suspension can have some issues with this on bumps, due to the suspension travel, right? But I am planning to run a set of coilovers as well to lower the height, which will stiffen the suspension as well.

My question is will a set of 17x7 +45 wheels on a lowered GE8 with coils(lower and stiffer ride) rub with 205/45/17 tires? Or should I go ahead and get a 205/40/17 tire? Is it the witdh of the wheel or the height(profile) that would cause the rubbing issue?
I really dont want a 195 size tire. I like a little tire over the wheel. Basically Im trying for this look, which I had in one of my old cars:

Would appreciate any replies. No guesses please. Not trying to be rude, but when it come to tires, wheels and suspension its better not to guess.

Thanks in advance
We have tried customers with both 205/45x17 tires on standard and lowered suspensions (about 1.5", any lower disturbs handling on 42 and 45 mm offsets). 205/45x17 worked on 45 mm only if not lowered; 42 mm rubbed big time on stock ride height. The only combination that worked with stock fenders was 195/45x17 tires omn 45 mm offset with stock height and maximum 1.5" drop.. Another point to consider is the loss in mpg and acceleration with205/45x17 tires. No customer or myself chose 205's. As for the size, surely you don't think the Fit can make use of a 205 section tire; if it had 150 hp it probably, could but not 205. we've got dozens of a/x runs to back that up.
 
  #95  
Old 03-25-2011, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mahout
No customer or myself chose 205's. As for the size, surely you don't think the Fit can make use of a 205 section tire; if it had 150 hp it probably, could but not 205. we've got dozens of a/x runs to back that up.
AXing is one extreme of constant turning. A small width wheel will benefit there. The narrower and lighter the wheels & tires, the easier it is for a car to speed up and slow down into and out of turns.

But if you're not AXing, as in regular DDing, you're more likely to hit a different extreme... consistently higher speeds than AX. That is where the wider tires come into play.

You don't have to have 150hp to hit 60mph. Any car can get up to most any speed (eventually), the question becomes, what can you do once you are there.

I had a 92 HP Mistubishi Mirage (Lancer) that I always take up to 80+mph in San Diego on the freeways... with smaller tires, it felt slightly unstable. But after borrowing my car way too often, my brother got pissed and decided to get bigger wheels and wider tires to go on it. The instability mostly went away.

I went 205s on my Fit, but I also went lighter wheels too. Overall, its lighter than stock. For a DD car, it feels much better.
 

Last edited by Goobers; 03-25-2011 at 07:04 PM.
  #96  
Old 03-25-2011, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Goobers
AXing is one extreme of constant turning. A small width wheel will benefit there. The narrower and lighter the wheels & tires, the easier it is for a car to speed up and slow down into and out of turns.

But if you're not AXing, as in regular DDing, you're more likely to hit a different extreme... consistently higher speeds than AX. That is where the wider tires come into play.

You don't have to have 150hp to hit 60mph. Any car can get up to most any speed (eventually), the question becomes, what can you do once you are there.

I had a 92 HP Mistubishi Mirage (Lancer) that I always take up to 80+mph in San Diego on the freeways... with smaller tires, it felt slightly unstable. But after borrowing my car way too often, my brother got pissed and decided to get bigger wheels and wider tires to go on it. The instability mostly went away.

I went 205s on my Fit, but I also went lighter wheels too. Overall, its lighter than stock. For a DD car, it feels much better.

Perhaps we should add we have a few road course laps to back it up also. Take a good look at "Fit leading ..." on youtube. Even 100 mph makes a difference and 205's are slower than 195's with the diameter slightly biased toward 205. The greater weight of the 205's were offset some by less radius than the lighter 195's (23.44 to 23.07"). 2 secs per lap.
PS the lighter wheels are good but lighter tires win every time; their mass is further from the axle.
But yes you can put too narrow a tire on any car to get instability but even 175/65x15's aren't unstable on a Fit.
 

Last edited by mahout; 03-25-2011 at 08:23 PM.
  #97  
Old 03-25-2011, 10:13 PM
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You're talking about one aspect of driving when it comes to AX, timing. Sure, you have a road course, but it still doesn't change the fact your priority is time.

My priority is handling on the road. Where it rains and snows. My priorities are on freeways with grooves that can pull even an SUV a good half inch over when it catches a tread. Where people have to deal with potholes... avoiding them and other drivers.

You say a 175 is stable? Have you driven on a freeway with grooves and 20 mph crosswinds (ala San Diego).

AXing is far too controlled (leaning on ideal situations) to be worthwhile conversation aside from "time attacks."

edit: something I want to add.

Originally Posted by mahout
Perhaps we should add we have a few road course laps to back it up also. Take a good look at "Fit leading ..." on youtube. Even 100 mph makes a difference and 205's are slower than 195's with the diameter slightly biased toward 205. The greater weight of the 205's were offset some by less radius than the lighter 195's (23.44 to 23.07"). 2 secs per lap.
PS the lighter wheels are good but lighter tires win every time; their mass is further from the axle.
But yes you can put too narrow a tire on any car to get instability but even 175/65x15's aren't unstable on a Fit.
While lighter tires do make for easier AXing... you are actually making things "worse" for the 205s by making the diameter smaller. This is a somewhat small amount, but the fact is... you were never traveling as fast in the 205s. And it isn't just because of the weight, but of the driver forcing it. When you shift, you shift based on one of a few things... the rpm, the speed as indicated on the speedo... or similar to the RPM, the sound of the engine. Having a smaller radius for the 205s, meant you never got up to the same actual speeds when shifting. At exactly redline, the 195s, with it's larger radius is allowing the car to travel at a faster speed than the 205s (approximately 1mph per 60).

Every person that races a given track... starts to memorize positions and speeds that they need for that spot. For turn N, brake x distance away at y speed. If they can get to exactly 60 mph on a specific straight section before they have to break to something like 30 mph to initiate the turn... they'll ALWAYS do it, no matter the tire size. So, if the speedo isn't calibrated to the new tire size, they're now doing something different from what they thought. And that... is part of time difference.

You introduced more variables than you indicated... and they're just as important as the ones you did.

What exactly is the video supposed to prove? That you were in the "lead" during a yellow flag?

If you want a comparison... get ONE Fit. one good driver (that can unlearn/relearn a track quickly). 3 full sets of 195 tires, and 3 sets of 205 tires. To make this a relatively simple comparison... the tires all have to be mounted on the same wheels (switch the wheels over each time). And they have to come out to the same diameter.

Pick one size and then use up the tires. Something like 1 week of getting used to the tires on first set. then 1 day on the second set to see how much they can push on fresh tires. and finally, the use the third set to set the time lap.

Wait a week or two... and then repeat with the other tire size (if you can calibrate the speedo to match, all the better). Hopefully, the weather will be similar enough on both sets of testing.

Let's see your results then.

As for my set of wheels and tires.

Reducing the calculations to very simplistic ones... ie, assume all weight is at the edge.

Stock Sport: 16" alloy with 185 tires
(18 lb for tire + approx 2 lb of air) x12 inches... 240
17 lb alloy wheel x 8 in = 136
total 376

Enkei + Conti DWS: 16" with 205 tires
(19 lb + 3 lbs) x 12 in = 264
14 lb x 8 in = 112
total 376

The same amount of force on the hub. But... I was rounding things down for the stock... compare static weight of 39 as per https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ight-list.html for the stock compared to the used in calculation static weight of 37 lb. My new set is also rounded up. The static weight of 36 is actually based on the UPS label, and you know they always round up. Which means, in reality, my new set could potentially require less force to rotate than the stock set (depends on the actual weight distribution within each tire and wheel).

However, in terms of mpg, I expect lower mpg just because of the increase in rolling resistance.
 

Last edited by Goobers; 03-26-2011 at 01:01 AM.
  #98  
Old 03-30-2011, 08:50 PM
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Wow. I didn't think my post would result in, well, what it resulted. I want to say I learned a lot, but I would be lying if I understood everything you both explained.

My 2 cents(not worth much). In my old car I had stock 18x8.5 inch Enkei wheels with Yokohama rubber. I then upgraded to 18x9.5 Volk CE28s with Yoko rubber as well. Car was faster and handled better(electronically tested).

Any who, I'm looking at getting a set of Enkei PF01s in 17x7 +45. The plan is to lower the Fit with Coils at the same time. I'm really just want to know which is the best tire to get that won't rub and will look similar to the pic above? Also, my Fit is DD. It will not see a track at all.

Profile will be 40. So, 205 or 215? Which one?
 
  #99  
Old 03-31-2011, 01:15 AM
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17x7 195/45R17 and this wheel/tire combo is the closest you can be in stock form.

I run +47 offset front and +42 (+47 with 5mm slip-on spacer) rear with 195/45R17 all around. I'm also on Swift springs. I once loaded the FIT going to and from a carshow with full sized metal double tent, chairs, tables and boxes of goods... mind you, the fit had his hands full on this load. Guess what... never rubbed from turning to going over speed bumps and climbing up and down the loading dock of the Montrose convention center.

IMO and through experience from playing around with slip-on spacers on mine... here's what I found:

+45 is as far and close as you can go with a 205 tire anything more is guaranteed to rub specially on fronts. on the rear you might and can pull off a +42 205 but this is close. Remember... the rears are more sunk than fronts. Now slip in a 195/45R17 instead of a 205 and you're golden!!!

I've been doing high speed ramp entry and exsits and my 195 yokohamas grip like glue. I'm so confident with them I see no point on having wider street tires than that. 195 is still a lot of tire for such a light car https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/969766-post80.html
 

Last edited by ThEvil0nE; 03-31-2011 at 12:17 PM.
  #100  
Old 03-31-2011, 09:31 AM
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[quote=Goobers;976475]You're talking about one aspect of driving when it comes to AX, timing. Sure, you have a road course, but it still doesn't change the fact your priority is time.

My priority is handling on the road. Where it rains and snows. My priorities are on freeways with grooves that can pull even an SUV a good half inch over when it catches a tread. Where people have to deal with potholes... avoiding them and other drivers.

You say a 175 is stable? Have you driven on a freeway with grooves and 20 mph crosswinds (ala San Diego).

AXing is far too controlled (leaning on ideal situations) to be worthwhile conversation aside from "time attacks."

edit: something I want to add.



While lighter tires do make for easier AXing... you are actually making things "worse" for the 205s by making the diameter smaller. This is a somewhat small amount, but the fact is... you were never traveling as fast in the 205s. And it isn't just because of the weight, but of the driver forcing it. When you shift, you shift based on one of a few things... the rpm, the speed as indicated on the speedo... or similar to the RPM, the sound of the engine. Having a smaller radius for the 205s, meant you never got up to the same actual speeds when shifting. At exactly redline, the 195s, with it's larger radius is allowing the car to travel at a faster speed than the 205s (approximately 1mph per 60).


What exactly is the video supposed to prove? That you were in the "lead" during a yellow flag?

If you want a comparison... get ONE Fit. one good driver (that can unlearn/relearn a track quickly). 3 full sets of 195 tires, and 3 sets of 205 tires. To make this a relatively simple comparison... the tires all have to be mounted on the same wheels (switch the wheels over each time). And they have to come out to the same diameter.

Pick one size and then use up the tires. Something like 1 week of getting used to the tires on first set. then 1 day on the second set to see how much they can push on fresh tires. and finally, the use the third set to set the time lap.

Wait a week or two... and then repeat with the other tire size (if you can calibrate the speedo to match, all the better). Hopefully, the weather will be similar enough on both sets of testing.

Let's see your results then.

As for my set of wheels and tires.

Reducing the calculations to very simplistic ones... ie, assume all weight is at the edge.
[quote]


You missed the point. It is distance that counts to get to shift points; the less time the less distance. And that is a function of acceleration and cornering ability, both of which are results from tire diameter and traction ( which favors neither 205 or 195 specifically. There are many 195's that will outcorner 205's on Fits.) A larger, heavier tire will never achieve the speeds that slightly smaller, lighter tires will in the time allotted.
And yes, we have tested with several combinations of tires and wheels. No one here, a bunch of tire engineers and racers, could figure out what your test would indicate.
1. When you widen the tire section and thus weight, the diameter must be reduced to avoid the additional torque required to turn the wheels that result in poorer handling from slower response and results in poorer mpg.
2. The lighter the tire and the lower the aspect ratio, the faster the response, hence improved handling.
3. Handling is always measureable by a stopwatch, 'feel' never proves correct.
4. Shifting by rpm, sound, or speedometer happens only on straights, the rest where the rpm needs to be kept in the maximum torque range for optimum thrust. And in all cases its the TIME it takes to accelerate to shift point rather than the speed itself. Even a tenth of a second matters a lot. The smaller the diameter the better gear ratio for faster acceleration and the less effort for the wheels to turn the corner, hence better handling..
While the video of that Fit is indeed during yellow flag, it does indicate the Fit handles well; just take a time for that lap and compare with other econoboxes.
Its not that 205 tires aren't good, if they are be too large in diameter they are worse. And if you want 17x7 wheels with 45 mm offset 195/40x17 is the sure ticket especially when lowered; you can get away with 205/40x17 tires but its close.
 

Last edited by mahout; 03-31-2011 at 09:42 AM.

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