Had some spare Aluminum and carbon fiber laying around and enough epoxy left that I figured I’d make something for me, quick little day project Turned into 2 day project ( curing time)

heat shield around the carbon tube, metal zip tied on just in case the adhesive wears; heat shield on the header side of aluminum panel heat Shield.

the carbon Fiber intake tube was molded using a plastic bottle And meshed to the stock air box plastic piece I cut out that holds the air flow sensor ( because I it would be a month project to make the entire thing in carbon because of mold design of that lil piece )

Side question for those with the knowledge

does anyone know if making that diameter Larger For the air flow sensor will mess with the ecu and it’s tune Because of improper reading? ( I know our ecu’s tune is complex but dont know if it would catch a change like that and adjust)

been driving with this modification for over 2000 miles, no check engine light has ever appeared because of it even on long WOT and those long idles here in phx rush hour in the heat ( but I have the same bottle neck in tube diameter at the sensor Location so I don’t expect any huge increase in airflow or hp if any but it sounds worlds better )

let me know what you think or any additional mods I should do ( I’m a maker, fabricator ) , eventually I want to turbo this car and have it be my sleeper/ beater work car

 

looks like you might have double posted friend!

To answer your question yes it will change. The MAF is directly related to the diameter of the tube that it is measuring from. An increase in the diameter will slow down the flow of air per cross sectional area at a given CFM, and therefore will you will most likely run very lean or get a vacuum leak code.

Myxal ended up getting the MAF out of a larger displacement engine, and tuned his ECU with KTuner to eliminate that bottleneck.

Again, because the MAF is tuned to the tube diameter, this approach that Myxal took is preferable to transplanting the original GK5 MAF into a larger diameter tube and tuning your ECU, as the maximum flow rate will most likely decrease meaning you're only using the bottom portion of the maximum resolution of the sensor output, and the linearity of the reading may or may not scale accordingly.

Either is technically doable. However also note that the largest intake restriction on our L15 is in the intake manifold where the EGR is reintroduced into the air stream. This is behind the throttle body and looks like a large metal hump in the intake path. I have yet to see any modifications that deal with this other than cutting it off, and I assume that will influence your emissions as it is that way to have a tuned vacuum applied to the EGR during open throttle.

Hope you're having fun through the whole process though! I look forward to your turbocharger photos and build log!!

We need more sleeper fits on the streets!

 

Do you have a way to measure your intake air temperature with that setup?

 

Looks like you pretty much answered all his questions. I used a 2014 Honda Civic intake housing (I actually cut it off from the intake box it was in) and put the 2015 Honda Fit's maf sensor inside of it. I used the 2014 Civic maf housing because the maf sensor that the 2014 Honda Civic used was the exact same part number as our Fits. You make a great point in that if someone just stuck our maf sensor in some random larger diameter tube, it may not read properly due to the extra air flowing underneath/around the sensor itself.

Speedfactory re-calibrated the maf scaling using Ktuner so that the maf sensor would read the air properly coming through the 2014 Honda Civic Maf housing. Worked like a charm. No issues with idling or drivability whatsoever after the re-calibration. Short term and long term fuel trims were spot on.

 

Very nice on your creativity and am glad you are enjoying your intake. I have to let you in on something from when I made a similar intake while testing. I liked this design put when I tested it on the dragstrip, it was the slowest my car had ever ran. Even while comparing it to my stock intake. The design of the intake was fine in and of itself. The problem was the location that it was sucking in air from. The area/space that the filter is in is sucking in hot air coming right off the transmission. Also, all the hot air in the engine is being pushed to this area from the front of the car. My intake temps were horrible.

All my pics of each intake I did are long gone (Thanks Imageshack). However, look at post #2. My 2nd post and 1/4 mile time is in reference to the intake I made with the exact same design that you have now. Also, in my first post, I called this the 'Myxal Short Ram'. I described how I had it angled toward the firewall (With pics which are unfortunately gone).
Great Intake Test

Keep up the good work and good luck on your turbocharging future.

 

not currently, do you have any suggestions? I’ll have my girlfriend record my acceleration tomorrow after work...
also I’m starting my turbo build/ started the thread so be sure to check that out and leave suggestions/ feedback... it will not be a quick project but it should be a good one

 

Reading this post a doubt came to mind.... of both the civic and the fit MAF sensor are the same (since they have the same part #) how is it that they come calibrated for one or another airbox or intake tube....

One of the values they read is air mass and no matter the size it will take a sample of what passes through the sensor..... and make the corresponding fuel corrections.... I do believe that if the intake is modified the thing that causes codes or issues is the distance from the TB.....instead of the size of the tube...

 

they don’t read air... they read voltage change needed to keep a wire a certain temp, if it reads air it would be measured in cfm or electricity gain...like a turbine, instead most read how much many volts it takes to keep a wire hot in the sensor hence why they get called “hot wire sensors” they are hardware tuned for your car...automotive manufacturers don’t produce all the parts for their car they just make them work together by tuning and calibration.

only reason the distance from throttle body would make a difference is if your change in temp which changes air density Is different Making your reading incorrect to the amount of fuel to add and that would be a very long intake or a very heat soaked intake since the air In that tract moves very quickly. I can say that because I have a long intake and have never pulled an engine code because of my custom intake...From hot city driving number to number siting to WOT pulls and going 126mph: no engine codes

 

My bad... I didn't explained myself correctly on the reading part....

BUT anyways the point was that both MAF sensors being the same...... it wont make a difference on the size BUT the location... 😁

 

I understand what you are trying to say but it’s Partly wrong because of fluid dynamics, air takes the path of least resistance so a larger tube diameter same sensor means the sensor must be calibrated to work with the newer tube because the reading would be different from the same sensor if you change tube diameter

location does matter so you are right in those regards the closer the sensor To the throttle body the more accurate the reading. My theory is my car is running slightly leaner then stock but don’t have a wide band O2 sensor to verify my beliefs/ theory on that

 

Ok ok, i see your point... BUT to me it doesn't makes sense that both if both cars use the same sensor but they go in different diameter tubes....because then... my argument is correct on the part that the sensor:
1-reads data
2-sends data to ecu
3-then ecu sends whatever fuel needs to send to correct for the given info...

 

Ecu has different algorithm for the measured data so it tells it to act differently between the 2 different cars even though it uses the same part/sensor ( because of the difference in diameter/ flow efficiency) ...

you can use ktuner to calibrate your ecu to act accordingly to the new System but without that it will tell your ecu the wrong information, which is why I had to keep that section intact with the same diameter...you can try it on your car but you won’t be happy with the results.

I don’t want that bottleneck on my air intake, but I’m still working on turbo build project and it’s looking like I’ll need to run a stand-alone ecu for dual injection so no need buying $600 dollar k tuner for stock ecu and a $600 Ecu for the new injectors I’ll be adding ( I won’t be spending $600 on my open source ecu but still it’s an additional cost when it’s not needed for less then 10 hp gains On this intake