If everything looks good on the outside with no damages, I would suggest to check the wheel alignment. The results should give you an idea as to what is going on.

 

Wild guess. Now that I can see your pix, looks like you have the stock Firestone FR740's. Is it possible that they've worn to the point where they can't reliably hug the road anymore, despite having what looks like decent tread? Out of round, perhaps, or defects you can't see?

I couldn't wait to replace my Firestones - they were awful. I noticed it at about one year, they just didn't seem to have much grip anymore, despite having what looked like decent tread. When I mounted new tires, the change in grip was immediately noticeable. Made me wish I had replaced them much earlier, but when I finally replaced them at 1.5 years, I thought I'd get a lot more out of the stock tires. Guess not.

No amount of balancing and alignment can compensate for bad tires. Tires with not much wear and they're already junk. Wouldn't surprise me if a new set of tires is in your near future.

 

Interesting. I would have thought a brand new car would not have tire problems like this already, but we are just over the 1 year mark. I looked at the service ticket when we brought it in and apparently they did rotate them. Tread was all in the green.. I'd worry that we would put new tires on and it doesn't solve the problem and we start getting uneven wear and trash new tires.. It's just so frustrating.

 

Had the same issue at higher speed with a 2016. Installed a 19mm rear anti-sway bar from Progress Technology and fixed the issue. The rear stays put. No, it's not the tires. The rear of this car is very soft on a torsion beam.

 

I don't have this anti-sway bar. My car tracks perfectly straight even at high speed. Adding non OEM hardware should not be required to resolve his drifting problem. The OP said the car tracked straight before. He needs to find the root cause.

 

The problem is the rear torsion beam, non-multi-link rear suspension and light weight of the car + sensitive electric steering. I've been modding suspension for 2 decades. The rear anti-sway bar helps a lot in reducing suspension deflection. You don't have to believe me, just throwing in my 2 cents here. My alignment is in check also, up front, the rear is fixed with no alignment adjustment capability. This car tracks straight at low speed but at high speed, it needs to be put down and stabilized. Same tire setup + same rims even as the OP. I have an 07 Accord V6 that doesn't ever do this, but of course, it's multi-link suspension + hydraulic steering + heavier weight.

 

Install the anti-sway bar, it helps. If you don't like it or think it doesn't help, return it. Again, I'm not asking you to believe me, I'm telling you the real world difference in suspension behavior after the bar was installed. Even the cornering improved a ton, the rear is no longer sloppy throwing itself out. I used to have to brake mid turn around a big curve if I decide to take it at 30+ mph. I read other posts before I installed the bar, they are there, you just need to search and find the discussions.

 

The stock tires are pewp, but shouldn't be the root cause, although they may highlight another issue as they wear. I think the problem with the Fit as a design choice is the mini-van front end alignment specs, and solved my dissatisfaction with some SPI camber bolts and a visit to an alignment shop. Ended up with -1.3 deg camber up front (max I could get without slotting the holes), and zero toe. The alignment tech came back from the test ride with a smile on his face, and I smiled all the way home, because it went from mini-van blah to GTI-ish, very on-center and nice turn-in.
The GK Fit is much better for directional stability than the GE was, but both generations are Nerf'd so they don't cannabalize sales from the Civics. The new front alignment really worked magic.
Fwiw, the left rear had gruesome amounts of excess toe-in, but a plastic shim (SPI 71790 Series) fixed that and stopped a subtle tail-wag that would happen on grooved concrete.

 

I had a very similar issue and it was because of uneven wear on the stock Firestones. The car wasn't tracking straight and there was a lot of play in the steering wheel. Replaced with General Altimax RT43 and that fixed it. The Generals are better in every way - ride, noise & traction.

 

Have your checked to see if your sway bar end links are connected and not broken? I've had similar things happen in other hatchbacks.

 

Very useful, thank you!

 

Nice info. I have ultra racing rear sway bar it does track straight in the burbs when you are traveling 60 kph or 70 kph. But on the highway when the wind is blowing like cray cray it will wonder around.

 

Soo..

• If the dealership says nothing's wrong with it we can assume alignment and swaybars/etc are in spec.
• The tires above look to be fine, and the pressures you reported seem ok.

If you record a video of normal driving from a forehead mounted camera it may help determine a bit more... It may just be seat-feel, What car did you drive previously? Keep in mind the fit is a light car comparatively, and wind, road surface, etc, all affect it differently than larger cars with more tracking surface/momentum.

 

I would agree to take it to another place.


The things that pop into my head are tie rod ends and strut bearings.

Seems like if it is wondering to both sides something is loose.

I have had tires pull but never both directions.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I haven't seen anyone mention non-mechanical issues yet. Keep in mind LKAS is a reactive system--it depends on the input from the camera, and adjusts the EPS to try to keep the car centered. It does not take into account wind, road conditions, etc, it just takes input from the camera. You should not think of this as a self-driving system, it's a driving aid--meaning it really isn't designed to drive FOR you, it's designed to help you stay in your lane.

It's possible the issue you have is with the torque sensor inside the steering rack. I am not sure if EPS on a Honda Civic is similar to the one you have, and if it is, take a look at this video. The torque sensor went bad, and the PSCM couldn't deal with the values that it's sending, and made the car undrivable. Check out this video.