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Also keep in mind ( if you didn't already know) reducing the + toe will change the handling and braking deflection can make it toe out. Combined with a rear sway bar, stiffer springs, and neg camber up front and you could find yourself in an off throttle oversteer situation. Rainy/ snowy on ramps, etc.
Im not referring this to you but many people reduce the toe in thinking only for better tire wear and they don't understand how it effects the handling until they find themselves in a surprise spin out
I'm well acquainted with trailing throttle oversteer - notice the swing-axle Beetles in the background (my other hobby)? Never spun one, though (yet)!
I decided to keep the Fit for a while so i just bought a few things to refresh the car for Spring. Pulling the Tanabe coilovers out because they are too rough for me and will be selling them. They have about 3,500 miles on them, look out for them in the classifieds.
New parts on the way:
-Koni STR
-H&R Sport springs
-Progress RSB
-Spoon rigid collars for the subframe
-Mugen style lip kit
Contemplating:
-Megan Racing FSB (28mm, same as Spoon)
-Megan Racing lower tie bar
I'm looking at replacing the warped factory discs on my mexican GK (apparently many had this issue), and am having trouble finding good aftermarket parts
What i had in mind: DBA rotors, Hawk HP+ pads
What i found: Nothing
Who makes good brake pads for the fit? I dont care about noise or dust or it working cold or wet
I'm looking at replacing the warped factory discs on my mexican GK (apparently many had this issue), and am having trouble finding good aftermarket parts
What i had in mind: DBA rotors, Hawk HP+ pads
What i found: Nothing
Who makes good brake pads for the fit? I dont care about noise or dust or it working cold or wet
Ive always liked EBC products. I bought EBC slotted rotors and EBC green stuff pads but have yet to install. Maybe this weekend.
Installed the Tanabe Sustek DF210s that my wife got me for my birthday. I'm pretty happy with the drop. Too bad I had to replace the right front strut assembly due to an abundance of Loctite from the factory and a cross threaded nut. Completely stripped the Allen that keeps the shock from spinning while trying to separate everything.
Painted the calipers black. 1st coat. Will touch up tomorrow.
Pulled the screws from the rotors. Planning to do install new rotors tomorrow is time permits and these little guys took me the longest when I had my Integra so I figured id hit them first.
Pulled the screws from the rotors. Planning to do install new rotors tomorrow is time permits and these little guys took me the longest when I had my Integra so I figured id hit them first.
When I had my Integra, I didn't bother to screw this back in.
Painted the calipers black. 1st coat. Will touch up tomorrow.
Pulled the screws from the rotors. Planning to do install new rotors tomorrow is time permits and these little guys took me the longest when I had my Integra so I figured id hit them first.
Wheel back on with some TPI black lugs
I hope those lugs are ball seat because the wheels are. Most aftermarket lugs are taper seat and not compatible with the OE Honda wheels.
Installed the Tanabe Sustek DF210s that my wife got me for my birthday. I'm pretty happy with the drop. Too bad I had to replace the right front strut assembly due to an abundance of Loctite from the factory and a cross threaded nut. Completely stripped the Allen that keeps the shock from spinning while trying to separate everything.
Same thing happened to me. Still cheaper than having someone else do the install. Live and learn.
Installed Swift springs + koni shocks. Had to replace my Buddy Club N+ since my fiance and kids don't like how stiff the ride is. Oh well. So now I got a set of Buddy Club N+ (for GE) for sale, driven about 5k miles on it.
Fronts prior to install, looks pretty good with red and orange.
The only install pic I got since it took me 6 hrs to install and I was getting pretty tired, lol
The Buddy Club N+ I now need to sell. Comes with the upper rubber mounts in the rear that I dremeled flat and the front strut bearings.
The hole is elongated for camber adjustment without the need for a camber bolt.