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I looked at this, too much trouble and looks ugly.
Just get a voltage sensing device for a few bucks off EBay and run a wire from the battery and one from the park lights (to dim the DRL, if you want). I used the changeover LEDs which are DLR and turn signal
The voltage sensing thing will sense when voltage rises and turn on the DRLs. When you switch on the parl lights it will dim them (if you use the wire for it). When you stop the engine they go off when the voltage falls back to 12.something volts. No messing with the fuses. The thingy has a fuse of its own.
Originally Posted by nomenclator
What is a "GK Case"? I know what a fuse is, but what is a "positive" fuse? The automotive fuse shown in the photo - I don't think this kind of fuse has any polarity; current can flow through it in either direction. Also, what does IGP-FI mean?
It looks like you have a 7.5 amp fused placed at right angles to all the other fuses in the middle row of fuses, in Fuse Box A in the engine compartment. In my fuse box A I don't see any way to put a fuse in that way, at that spot. It looks like you have some kind of black plastic thing sitting on top of the fuse, and a red wire coming out of the black plastic thing. I can't see the other end of the wire. Does the wire go to one of the terminals on a relay? What is the black plastic thing? Which of the 2 relay circuits is the 7.5 amp fuse in series with, the input circuit or the output circuit? Is there another fuse in the other circuit?
I know how relays work, and fuses, and I can read schematics, but I can't figure out what's going on here.
I added a 12V accesory socket to my LX Fit. I removed the cover for the lacking push-button start (part 79552-T5A-J01ZA), gouged it out with a step drill bit, and filed it down a bunch. I used a socket that's secured by a nut in the back. Positive terminal is connected via a fuse tap to fuse 15 (Right Headlight High Beam). Negative is bolted to the metal panel underneath the steering wheel using an existing hole. This fuse is always on, so I'm only going to use it for accessories that are only connected temporarily - 12V cooling fan, tire inflator, car vacuum, etc. This is the socket that I used:
Middle fuse tap is used for my new 12V socket. Technically the tap should be flipped over, but I inserted it upside down due to lack of room. The other two taps are for a gate opener and dashcam, respectively.
"Car LED Daytime Running Light Relay Van DRL Control Switch Controller 12V MA945"
What does the word "van" mean in this context. The thing is a kind of "control switch controller." ????
"High quality, mini size, lightweight, waterproof.
Easy install, no need to change any line, durable.
When start the car engine, it will light automatically.
When flame, the light off delay 15 seconds.
Suitable for most vehicle models."
Good grief. That makes no sense. How did you figure out what kind of device is being marketed? No need to change any "line"? What is a "line" in this context?
It will light? It doesn't look like any lamp I have ever seen.
It is going to flame? Good grief; that sounds dangerous.
When it flames, "the light off delay 15 seconds." So once combustion starts, it takes 15 seconds for the light to go off? Is that a measure of how long it takes to be fully consumed, once it catches on fire? Seriously I'm finding the description useless.
From looking at the label on the device, that I can see in one of the images, it looks like it is trying to say "factory settings: if the input is greater than 13 volts then in that case the output wires will provide power at that voltage; if the input voltage is less than 13 volts, then the output wires will stop providing power after a delay of 15 seconds." It looks like it has a red and black pair of input wires, and a red and black pair of output wires and it seems that most likely you can attach the red input wire to the battery positive terminal and the black input wire to ground. But there is no description of what the yellow wire, next to these 2 input wires, is for. Nor is there any description on the sales page. How did you figure you what the device does; how did you figure out whether it will meet your need?
Last edited by nomenclator; Nov 8, 2017 at 10:29 PM.
Holy crap, no idea these existed. Thanks for letting me know. Now I gotta wait a month for the slow boat from China to come.
Your link shows the products for displaying voltage and temp (I thought about getting it, but already have those features). You do realize that the temp display is in Celsius?
Yeah, the Celsius thing is annoying. The reason I didn't get one with a USB charging port is because charging technology changes pretty quickly and has proprietary aspects. My current phone uses Quick Charge 2.0, my next one might have 3.0 or Dash Charge. I don't want to be stuck with one or two generic USB ports that won't take advantage of my phone's capability.
Not the most exciting mod here, but I swapped the standard zinc-plated steel screws on my license plates for stainless steel ones in hopes of preventing rust stains down the road.
Not the most exciting mod here, but I swapped the standard zinc-plated steel screws on my license plates for stainless steel ones in hopes of preventing rust stains down the road.
Not the most exciting mod here, but I swapped the standard zinc-plated steel screws on my license plates for stainless steel ones in hopes of preventing rust stains down the road.
Same thought occurred to me but I was too lazy to go out and buy new screws so I just clear coated mine. It won't last forever but maybe long enough.
Not the most exciting mod here, but I swapped the standard zinc-plated steel screws on my license plates for stainless steel ones in hopes of preventing rust stains down the road.
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