Cae washing advice
Waxing does no such damage to a clearcoat.
Waxing adds layers of PROTECTION to the clearcoat.
The reason we recommend various car-specific shampoos is because of their inherent slickness for gliding over paint and their gentleness (probably not a real word) to the wax; leaving protection in place.
GeorgeL, please post DETAILED pictures of your xB's paint work. I'd love to see the kind of junk that passes for excellent in your eyes.
Now stop spreading misinformation.
Waxing adds layers of PROTECTION to the clearcoat.
The reason we recommend various car-specific shampoos is because of their inherent slickness for gliding over paint and their gentleness (probably not a real word) to the wax; leaving protection in place.
GeorgeL, please post DETAILED pictures of your xB's paint work. I'd love to see the kind of junk that passes for excellent in your eyes.
Now stop spreading misinformation.
Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 71
From: Scottsdale, AZ USA
there are many different type of wax... but very simple break down
there are two types, pure wax (carnuba or palm wax) or cleaner wax ( NXT 2.0// one step waxes). pure wax, you can layer three or four coats and add great protection or topping to synthetic sealers like ZAINO or KLASSE.
Or Cleaner wax, which I think in many cases, two coats is more than enough... or you loose effort to finish ratio. Why do I say that? cleaner waxes have a very very mild chemical abrasion to help clear small micro marring or scratches. So by the third layer, the cleaner will be ineffective and maybe even cancel out the last layer of wax. However, it would take FOREVER to rub off the clear and harm the paint by use cleaner wax.... it would almost never happen!
so no... no wax will EVER strip paint, that is misinformation.
The only way you will strip paint is if you are taking a orbital buffer with cutting compound to it every week... which those are paint correction methods... not maintenance methods.
there are two types, pure wax (carnuba or palm wax) or cleaner wax ( NXT 2.0// one step waxes). pure wax, you can layer three or four coats and add great protection or topping to synthetic sealers like ZAINO or KLASSE.
Or Cleaner wax, which I think in many cases, two coats is more than enough... or you loose effort to finish ratio. Why do I say that? cleaner waxes have a very very mild chemical abrasion to help clear small micro marring or scratches. So by the third layer, the cleaner will be ineffective and maybe even cancel out the last layer of wax. However, it would take FOREVER to rub off the clear and harm the paint by use cleaner wax.... it would almost never happen!
so no... no wax will EVER strip paint, that is misinformation.
The only way you will strip paint is if you are taking a orbital buffer with cutting compound to it every week... which those are paint correction methods... not maintenance methods.
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 670
From: SF Bay Area
Why, because it flies in the face of the companies who want big $$$ for car washing products? Because it doesn't involve some near-religious ritual for keeping an everyday object clean? People get very upset when they are caused to question their faith!
Somebody has to tell the emperor that he has no clothes!
We have our share of grime, mostly fine, oily dirt that adheres to the car as we drive along in the spray of other cars when the road is wet. That's why a bit of detergent is important in the wash water, as a surfactant to release the oil from the paint surface. A big, open celled sponge that holds a good quantity of wash water allows the dirt to float away without being ground into the finish and wearing it.
What we get in excess is ozone and UV, both of which are not good for paint but modern paints seem to handle them well. My car isn't garaged or covered but the factory finish is holding up fine.
The problem with excessive waxing and polishing is that you eventually wear through the clearcoat. When that happens you get blisters under the clearcoat and the only solution is to repaint. The whole point of the clearcoat is to provide a shiny coating without waxing!
Somebody has to tell the emperor that he has no clothes!
We have our share of grime, mostly fine, oily dirt that adheres to the car as we drive along in the spray of other cars when the road is wet. That's why a bit of detergent is important in the wash water, as a surfactant to release the oil from the paint surface. A big, open celled sponge that holds a good quantity of wash water allows the dirt to float away without being ground into the finish and wearing it.
What we get in excess is ozone and UV, both of which are not good for paint but modern paints seem to handle them well. My car isn't garaged or covered but the factory finish is holding up fine.
The problem with excessive waxing and polishing is that you eventually wear through the clearcoat. When that happens you get blisters under the clearcoat and the only solution is to repaint. The whole point of the clearcoat is to provide a shiny coating without waxing!
You can have faith that the world is flat.
You can have faith that you don't need to change your oil because the companies want big $$ to service your car.
Your faith doesn't make these true.
When your car's paint looks dull and not shiny and you start looking for how much a repaint costs, you may eat your words. Or you may be the type that already traded in your car for a new one (see "car's don't need oil changes" true-believer above)
I will give you the point that people should keep an open mind to try out ideas. But don't confuse being a skeptic versus being denier. (I won't get into the details of this).
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 953
From: NY
The problem with excessive waxing and polishing is that you eventually wear through the clearcoat. When that happens you get blisters under the clearcoat and the only solution is to repaint.
Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,545
From: SoCal, CA
I see this on a lot of cars, including those whose owners religiously clean, polish, and wax. It seems to show up first on the upper surfaces near curves or ridges, where a combination of oxidation and extra polishing pressure wears the finish faster and eventually penetrate it. The worst cases I see are when folks use powered buffers on the finish. Polishing compound is also a quick way to ruin things.
I see this on a lot of cars, including those whose owners religiously clean, polish, and wax. It seems to show up first on the upper surfaces near curves or ridges, where a combination of oxidation and extra polishing pressure wears the finish faster and eventually penetrate it. The worst cases I see are when folks use powered buffers on the finish. Polishing compound is also a quick way to ruin things.
I religiously clean/wax my cars.
My 1991 Civic had more shine in 2010 than most newish cars, why? Because I'm so anal about keeping things in perfect condition.
In other news, from GeorgeL to properly cared for in one day's work!
The Worst Car on AG - Trashed and Neglected, Washed 2 Years Ago - V7 Hybrid, Collinite Marque D'Elegance, Collinite 845 (Many Pics) - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum
I see this on a lot of cars, including those whose owners religiously clean, polish, and wax. It seems to show up first on the upper surfaces near curves or ridges, where a combination of oxidation and extra polishing pressure wears the finish faster and eventually penetrate it. The worst cases I see are when folks use powered buffers on the finish. Polishing compound is also a quick way to ruin things.
Is that what definitely happened? No. But a possibility I think.
What do you guys think?
Most likely it was bird shit, I agree. If it was the evil polish and dangerous wax method with damaging, unnecessary and expensive machines, it would have smooth circlular damage and the paint would look a lot better.
I'd give a troll rating if 6.5/10
I'd give a troll rating if 6.5/10
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