Random Trigger of Warning Lights
#21
Same issue
Just brought this Honda Fit 2015 used from a Toyota dealer. Brought it back to them twice under warranty. First time they took it to Honda to see what was wrong and they were told to replace the alternator. Got it back and the lights all came back on. 2nd time I brought it back to them they replaced a fuse on the battery. Later that day the lights came back on again! The Toyota dealer mechanic said if the lights came back on to bring it back to them and they will send it to Honda again to say what’s wrong with it.
This all started happening within one week of buying this new used car. The car fax report said nothing was wrong with it. How is that possible?
im taking it back for the 3rd time tomorrow thank god I have a warranty so nothing out of my pocket just lots of time waisted and frustration. If they can’t fix it tomorrow then under the lemon law they have to buy it back right?
This all started happening within one week of buying this new used car. The car fax report said nothing was wrong with it. How is that possible?
im taking it back for the 3rd time tomorrow thank god I have a warranty so nothing out of my pocket just lots of time waisted and frustration. If they can’t fix it tomorrow then under the lemon law they have to buy it back right?
#22
I'm not familiar with lemon laws. I also think they can vary State to State. You might just do some investigation yourself.
When you buy a used car and immediately start having problems it's frustrating and disappointing. It makes it hard/impossible to enjoy the vehicle. But I might not give up just yet. Give them that 3rd chance, while investigating the lemon laws.
Since nobody at this point seems to know exactly what the problem is, it is possible the problem is minor. And you seem to have warranty with them, which they are trying to honor, so I might just give them another chance to solve the problem.
Just in case it turns out to be something huge, or they once again can't fix it, it probably would simultaneously wise to investigate what your legal options would be,
Good Luck.
When you buy a used car and immediately start having problems it's frustrating and disappointing. It makes it hard/impossible to enjoy the vehicle. But I might not give up just yet. Give them that 3rd chance, while investigating the lemon laws.
Since nobody at this point seems to know exactly what the problem is, it is possible the problem is minor. And you seem to have warranty with them, which they are trying to honor, so I might just give them another chance to solve the problem.
Just in case it turns out to be something huge, or they once again can't fix it, it probably would simultaneously wise to investigate what your legal options would be,
Good Luck.
#23
Just brought this Honda Fit 2015 used from a Toyota dealer. Brought it back to them twice under warranty. First time they took it to Honda to see what was wrong and they were told to replace the alternator. Got it back and the lights all came back on. 2nd time I brought it back to them they replaced a fuse on the battery. Later that day the lights came back on again! The Toyota dealer mechanic said if the lights came back on to bring it back to them and they will send it to Honda again to say what’s wrong with it.
This all started happening within one week of buying this new used car. The car fax report said nothing was wrong with it. How is that possible?
im taking it back for the 3rd time tomorrow thank god I have a warranty so nothing out of my pocket just lots of time waisted and frustration. If they can’t fix it tomorrow then under the lemon law they have to buy it back right?
This all started happening within one week of buying this new used car. The car fax report said nothing was wrong with it. How is that possible?
im taking it back for the 3rd time tomorrow thank god I have a warranty so nothing out of my pocket just lots of time waisted and frustration. If they can’t fix it tomorrow then under the lemon law they have to buy it back right?
Carfax doesn't necessarily show everything done on a vehicle, only what is reported. If someone got into an accident, but just paid out of pocket to repair the bumper versus going through insurance, then that wouldn't be reported.
Can you tell us what lights came on and what diagnostic codes came on?
#24
My problem re-appeared, but worse. The four lights come and go, but this time they are consistently on. On my last drive home, something new happened. The four lights were still on, but the check engine started blinking and I lost all rpms and had to drift over to stop. Restarted car, 4 lights on, but I made it home. Other post suggested maybe a loose spark plug or bad coil pack. I just checked all were tight and multi-meter shows coils are good. What's next? Other posts suggested the upstream o2 sensor replacement fixed it for them. In my 2017 fit, is that the sensor right behind the plugs? Has a blue sheathing covering wires and looks to be only maybe 8'' long.
#25
A blinking check engine light is basically a way to say the engine is misfiring. The manual suggests pulling over and getting the car towed to the dealer. My suzuki esteem 1.6 L would have the check engine light flash / blink occasionally but never had issues stalling or loss of power. I am guessing injectors. How many miles on your car?
#26
A blinking check engine light is basically a way to say the engine is misfiring. The manual suggests pulling over and getting the car towed to the dealer. My suzuki esteem 1.6 L would have the check engine light flash / blink occasionally but never had issues stalling or loss of power. I am guessing injectors. How many miles on your car?
#27
Sorry I keep posting all these random posts on here, but this one is different cuz it's happened twice now. Randomly, my Fit decides to throw on the warning lights for the tire pressure monitor (flashes for 30 seconds-1 minute, then steady), stability/traction control (steady), and the power steering (off for 15 seconds or so after starting, then steady), as well as warn me to "CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM" in the gauge screen to the right. The car seemed to drive fine both times, so idk why it is doing this, and all the tires have normal pressure.
First time it happened, it was a cooler day (probs about mid-30s), and I was getting gas. I drove the car from home to class, and from class to the gas station, just fine. No warning lights until I turned the car on (no start) to check mileage on the tank (btw, our gas computers are off; anywhere from 1-3 mpg higher than actual). That's when the lights came on and warning message flashed. I was close to the dealer at the time, so I drove there and had them look at it. They were busy, so the service advisor did a battery check and it passed, he saw the warning lights himself, noted it and made an appointment for Monday. As soon as I started the car up to leave, the lights and warning went away, so I cancelled the appointment. That was on Halloween.
Second time it happened was last night. I was working overnight, and I went outside for a little bit and decided to clear my windshield of frost. Turned the car to on (again, no start), and the lights and warning came back. It was cold (probs low-30s), so maybe that has something to do with it? I first saw it at midnight, and then the lights were still on when finally started and left work 6 hours later. Again, seemed to drive fine (except when I started it, steering caused a major power draw and dimmed the lights until it was warmed up), and the lights stayed on until today when I left for class. I stopped to drop some mail for work, shut the car off, restarted it, and the lights were gone. This was of course when I was gonna record what happens, but I did get this picture before I shut it off.
Attachment 13238
Anybody got any ideas? What I'm thinking is until I make an appointment with the dealer, don't use Key On Engine Off unless it's above 40 degrees. When I stopped in, the dealer thought it would be a voltage spike, which almost makes sense, but I tested it last night and I don't have traction control when that happens. I'll have to test it Monday when we get our first snow, but that was what I thought was happening last night.
First time it happened, it was a cooler day (probs about mid-30s), and I was getting gas. I drove the car from home to class, and from class to the gas station, just fine. No warning lights until I turned the car on (no start) to check mileage on the tank (btw, our gas computers are off; anywhere from 1-3 mpg higher than actual). That's when the lights came on and warning message flashed. I was close to the dealer at the time, so I drove there and had them look at it. They were busy, so the service advisor did a battery check and it passed, he saw the warning lights himself, noted it and made an appointment for Monday. As soon as I started the car up to leave, the lights and warning went away, so I cancelled the appointment. That was on Halloween.
Second time it happened was last night. I was working overnight, and I went outside for a little bit and decided to clear my windshield of frost. Turned the car to on (again, no start), and the lights and warning came back. It was cold (probs low-30s), so maybe that has something to do with it? I first saw it at midnight, and then the lights were still on when finally started and left work 6 hours later. Again, seemed to drive fine (except when I started it, steering caused a major power draw and dimmed the lights until it was warmed up), and the lights stayed on until today when I left for class. I stopped to drop some mail for work, shut the car off, restarted it, and the lights were gone. This was of course when I was gonna record what happens, but I did get this picture before I shut it off.
Attachment 13238
Anybody got any ideas? What I'm thinking is until I make an appointment with the dealer, don't use Key On Engine Off unless it's above 40 degrees. When I stopped in, the dealer thought it would be a voltage spike, which almost makes sense, but I tested it last night and I don't have traction control when that happens. I'll have to test it Monday when we get our first snow, but that was what I thought was happening last night.
I had the same issue. Mine turned out to be a broken wire to the sensor that detects wheel speed. Had the steering, traction control, and tire inflation lights on. It happened in the middle of the winter when it was snowing. I'm guessing a big chunk of ice or something stressed it and pushed it against the tire or something? It was evident since the outside insulation had worn through a little. The sensor is double insulated. I cut the wire in half, stripped the wires and re-soldered each one with with heat shrink and then put heat shrink over both connections. Honda doesn't really provide "extra" wire so I was a challenge to say the least. Not sure how much the whole sensor and wiring to the junction block costs?
#28
Keep the ideas coming!
I’ve been having this same issue for about a year. Mechanic said I could drive it until I couldn’t anymore. For about 6 months, the lights have been consistently on and the car loses RPMs and has to be turn off and on to be drivable again. We have replaced the coils and spark plugs, but no improvement. I feel like it’s an electrical issue, but my mechanic wants to replace the catalytic converter. Out of pocket will be the same either way, and neither is affordable. Just want you all to know this is still absolutely a relevant thread and we should stay in contact. Thank you for your posts!
#29
Car has been perfect for 1 year and now same warning light issue
Hi!
So I bought my car a year ago gently used only at 20k miles. It’s been perfect and great for a year, I’ve kept up on maintenance. I drove it fine two days ago and then yesterday, all of the sudden I hopped in to drive and ALL of the warning lights came on...
I’m not sure what my best choice of action should be... suggestions?
I don’t want to pay an arm and a leg, but I also don’t want this car to bite the dust sooner than it should. I got this car bc I loved my 2010 fit and was hoping to keep this 2018 for years to come.
And I did try turning it on today and still the same thing, all the warning lights came on. So it’s not going away.
Any help and advice is greatly appreciated!!!
So I bought my car a year ago gently used only at 20k miles. It’s been perfect and great for a year, I’ve kept up on maintenance. I drove it fine two days ago and then yesterday, all of the sudden I hopped in to drive and ALL of the warning lights came on...
I’m not sure what my best choice of action should be... suggestions?
I don’t want to pay an arm and a leg, but I also don’t want this car to bite the dust sooner than it should. I got this car bc I loved my 2010 fit and was hoping to keep this 2018 for years to come.
And I did try turning it on today and still the same thing, all the warning lights came on. So it’s not going away.
Any help and advice is greatly appreciated!!!
#30
This has happened twice. The first I'm attributing to a huge pothole I hit. Next time after starting car, all these lights came on at once: Tire Pressure,check engine, power steering, and stability. Tire pressure was the easiest to check, so I did. No issue. Had a buddy clear the tire pressure light, which cleared all the lights. No issues for a couple weeks. Today, I changed my front rotors and pads. No brake lines disconnected, just a simple pad/rotor job. Started up after I finished the second tire, and all those lights returned. The car drives fine, so I'm guessing their all false alarms. Anyone had a similar issue?
#31
Misfire #1 - all warning lights
Add another one to the list! (Warnings lights were - power steering problem, road mitigation problem, emissions system problem, VSA problem, Hill Start Assist Problem, Road departure mitigation problem)
2018 Honda Fit LX over here, freshly purchased (less than 1 week ago!) the vehicle is seemingly in pristine condition with 36,000KMs (22K miles) on it, meticulous previous owner all services done and documentation kept, has Honda Plus extended warranty. Started throwing up the error a few days back, disconnected the battery and that cleared it for a day, then it came back, had it diagnosed by my mechanic and a misfire on cylinder #1 was found, he recommended I go straight to Honda.
Took it to the Honda dealer, misfire on cylinder #1 came up -
Notes from the dealer invoice:
-air/fuel cylinder test...all cylinders passed
-inspected spark plugs...cleaned carbon
-swapped 1 and 3 ran vehicle scanned...no misfires
-code initially was P0301 misfire No.1 cylinder
-went on long road test, runs good....pls monitor
total cost $135 (CAD)
I certainly will be monitoring the issue. Really hoping the infamous "injector gate" issues don't follow previous models. I intend to document my experience as a first time Honda owner extremely thoroughly. Thanks to everyone who has posted here, I read this thread (and the others relating to similar issues) prior to setting out and it gave me the context and confidence to better educate myself about this vehicle and the potential next steps with Honda should the issue return.
Last edited by mellowbird; 09-30-2021 at 08:29 PM. Reason: typos
#32
2017 fit is doing same thing
Random Trigger of Warning LightsThis started happening to me about a month ago. I have a 2015 Fit LX with approximately 48,000 miles on it. And no, I didn't purchase an extended warranty.
As described in the original post, the Check Engine and Traction Control warning lights illuminate steadily at start-up, while the Tire Pressure Monitor System light blinks for 30-60 seconds. About 30 seconds after start-up, the Electronic Power Steering (EPS) warning light illuminates steadily. Here's a picture (sorry about the size of the image):
Started by taking it to AutoZone, to read the code generated by the Engine Control Module (ECM). Generated code was "#4 cylinder misfire". Recommended fix: Reset the ECM (I've tried this - it didn't work for very long). I then had them check the electrical/charging system, and they said that the voltage regulator was failing, causing these warning lights to come on. This would require replacing the alternator, ranging from $200 - $500.
Next, I took it to a Honda dealer. They put it on their diagnostic test system, and their diagnosis was that the alternator/battery/charging system was fine, but that the solenoid on the #4 fuel injector was sticking, causing the misfire, and that it would cost $2200 to replace the fuel injectors. When I asked why would a faulty fuel injector cause the TPMS, Traction Control, and EPS lights to come on, I got some lame explanation about how "they're all related thru the Check Engine light, and that's just how Honda does it." As a mechanical engineer, I can hardly believe a story like this, so I continued to challenge the tech, who maintained the explanation. I came to the conclusion that Honda (at least this particular dealer) is pissing in the wind like everyone else, and doesn't really know what is causing this (or how to fix it). Needless to say, I said "no thanks" to their repair offer.
In the meantime, I am continuing to drive the car, despite the warning lights always being on. I will also say that it seems to have disabled the Traction control system, as I noticed hydroplaning during a rainstorm that I have never had a problem with before. I should also mention that I purchased the car in August of 2014, and had an engine failure in Feb 2015. Everything is original from those two dates.
Could it be the ECM itself? No one seems to have checked that possiblilty...
As described in the original post, the Check Engine and Traction Control warning lights illuminate steadily at start-up, while the Tire Pressure Monitor System light blinks for 30-60 seconds. About 30 seconds after start-up, the Electronic Power Steering (EPS) warning light illuminates steadily. Here's a picture (sorry about the size of the image):
Started by taking it to AutoZone, to read the code generated by the Engine Control Module (ECM). Generated code was "#4 cylinder misfire". Recommended fix: Reset the ECM (I've tried this - it didn't work for very long). I then had them check the electrical/charging system, and they said that the voltage regulator was failing, causing these warning lights to come on. This would require replacing the alternator, ranging from $200 - $500.
Next, I took it to a Honda dealer. They put it on their diagnostic test system, and their diagnosis was that the alternator/battery/charging system was fine, but that the solenoid on the #4 fuel injector was sticking, causing the misfire, and that it would cost $2200 to replace the fuel injectors. When I asked why would a faulty fuel injector cause the TPMS, Traction Control, and EPS lights to come on, I got some lame explanation about how "they're all related thru the Check Engine light, and that's just how Honda does it." As a mechanical engineer, I can hardly believe a story like this, so I continued to challenge the tech, who maintained the explanation. I came to the conclusion that Honda (at least this particular dealer) is pissing in the wind like everyone else, and doesn't really know what is causing this (or how to fix it). Needless to say, I said "no thanks" to their repair offer.
In the meantime, I am continuing to drive the car, despite the warning lights always being on. I will also say that it seems to have disabled the Traction control system, as I noticed hydroplaning during a rainstorm that I have never had a problem with before. I should also mention that I purchased the car in August of 2014, and had an engine failure in Feb 2015. Everything is original from those two dates.
Could it be the ECM itself? No one seems to have checked that possiblilty...
#33
My 2015 Fit had the four warning lights: check engine, traction, tire pressure, and steering. Drove it for a day before taking it into Honda shop, lights never went out. However, on the trip to the dealer (we're 70+ miles away), after I filled with gas, the check engine went out. Then after stopping to drop off a bill, when I cranked the car next ... no lights at all! That made me think, this is a fuel problem (if a full tank fixed it).
I went on and dropped it at the dealership anyway. Their diagnosis: needs fuel injectors. I'm irritated that a 2015 model Honda with less than $60k miles would need injectors already, so I asked my mechanic nephew about it. He said this is a known issue: "Honda TSB A18-027 Faulty fuel injectors. This was a widespread problem on 2015 Fits and maybe early 2016 models. Honda redesigned the fuel injectors to solve the issue." I'm hoping the replacement injectors are the new kind.
I went on and dropped it at the dealership anyway. Their diagnosis: needs fuel injectors. I'm irritated that a 2015 model Honda with less than $60k miles would need injectors already, so I asked my mechanic nephew about it. He said this is a known issue: "Honda TSB A18-027 Faulty fuel injectors. This was a widespread problem on 2015 Fits and maybe early 2016 models. Honda redesigned the fuel injectors to solve the issue." I'm hoping the replacement injectors are the new kind.
#34
All injectors from Honda starting sometime in 2016 are the new kind. The old ones would have been recalled back then. There have been some concerns raised though as to whether the new injectors have absolutely cleared up the problems.
#35
I kind of did it...
2015 EX-L
124,000 miles
Hey all... I had the same issue on Saturday and appeared to make it go away (for now).
Lights that were on:
Power Steering
Check Engine
Traction
Tire Pressure
What I did:
Checked/tightened the gas cap (I filled up the night before. I've also gotten the check engine light for that reason without the rest of them, in the past, so I don't think the other 3 weren't triggered by the same thing.)
Poor man's computer reset by disconnecting the battery + battery terminal and collar cleaning
It's been 48+ hours, 100+ miles, 8 starts/stops, and the lights are still off (knock on wood)
I did notice some rocking on a cold start, on Monday so it's possible that one of my coils is going, so I'll keep an eye on that.
The electrical system in the GK generation is outrageously sensitive, so I imagine any downward fluctuation in power to any of those sensors/parts could trigger those lights, but a simple terminal cleaning seemed to do it for me.
I'll keep everyone updated if it changes.
124,000 miles
Hey all... I had the same issue on Saturday and appeared to make it go away (for now).
Lights that were on:
Power Steering
Check Engine
Traction
Tire Pressure
What I did:
Checked/tightened the gas cap (I filled up the night before. I've also gotten the check engine light for that reason without the rest of them, in the past, so I don't think the other 3 weren't triggered by the same thing.)
Poor man's computer reset by disconnecting the battery + battery terminal and collar cleaning
It's been 48+ hours, 100+ miles, 8 starts/stops, and the lights are still off (knock on wood)
I did notice some rocking on a cold start, on Monday so it's possible that one of my coils is going, so I'll keep an eye on that.
The electrical system in the GK generation is outrageously sensitive, so I imagine any downward fluctuation in power to any of those sensors/parts could trigger those lights, but a simple terminal cleaning seemed to do it for me.
I'll keep everyone updated if it changes.
#36
I had 4 lights come on on my 2015 when I forgot to fully tighten the cable clamp to the battery's negative post. The clamp was sitting on the post, but I forgot to tighten the 10 mm nut that tightens the clamp around the post. I shut off the engine, tightened the clamp, started the car, and the lights were gone.
This doesn't mean that a loose negative battery terminal clamp is the problem on your car, What it does suggest is that there is a poor or corroded ground connction somehere. I would check both battery terminals. With the engine off make sure they are not corroded. I'd also look at the end of the ground cable where it connects to the car body. There is often corrosion there. You can check other places where a ground cable connects to the body, like does the engine have a good ground? You check the resistance in a connection by putting a voltmeter across the connection point. Resistance in the connection will cause a small voltage to appear .I'm not sure how much is too much. Maybe 0.5 volts.
This doesn't mean that a loose negative battery terminal clamp is the problem on your car, What it does suggest is that there is a poor or corroded ground connction somehere. I would check both battery terminals. With the engine off make sure they are not corroded. I'd also look at the end of the ground cable where it connects to the car body. There is often corrosion there. You can check other places where a ground cable connects to the body, like does the engine have a good ground? You check the resistance in a connection by putting a voltmeter across the connection point. Resistance in the connection will cause a small voltage to appear .I'm not sure how much is too much. Maybe 0.5 volts.
#37
Hi all, i had the same issue with the warning lights. My car struggles to accelerate when moving at low speed.Been reading a lot of threads, thought it was the maf sensor since it was giving me code p0172, system too rich bank 1, after doing research, i assumed it could be a battery problem since the car would die from time to time especially during a cold start,went back to the autoshop to see if they can check the battery. Turns out the battery was already bad and needs to be replaced. Upgraded battery to a 51r, now its all good and running like brand new. Hope this helps. Have your battery check.
#38
My 2015 Fit had the four warning lights: check engine, traction, tire pressure, and steering. Drove it for a day before taking it into Honda shop, lights never went out. However, on the trip to the dealer (we're 70+ miles away), after I filled with gas, the check engine went out. Then after stopping to drop off a bill, when I cranked the car next ... no lights at all! That made me think, this is a fuel problem (if a full tank fixed it).
I went on and dropped it at the dealership anyway. Their diagnosis: needs fuel injectors. I'm irritated that a 2015 model Honda with less than $60k miles would need injectors already, so I asked my mechanic nephew about it. He said this is a known issue: "Honda TSB A18-027 Faulty fuel injectors. This was a widespread problem on 2015 Fits and maybe early 2016 models. Honda redesigned the fuel injectors to solve the issue." I'm hoping the replacement injectors are the new kind.
I went on and dropped it at the dealership anyway. Their diagnosis: needs fuel injectors. I'm irritated that a 2015 model Honda with less than $60k miles would need injectors already, so I asked my mechanic nephew about it. He said this is a known issue: "Honda TSB A18-027 Faulty fuel injectors. This was a widespread problem on 2015 Fits and maybe early 2016 models. Honda redesigned the fuel injectors to solve the issue." I'm hoping the replacement injectors are the new kind.
#39
Hi, this seems to be my problem too. I have a 2018 Honda Fit Sport that when running restarts the audio screen, activates all the pilots, and the most dangerous thing, when turning completely to either side, the rudder gives like a blow and returns the rudder.
When this rudder thing happens, it also resets the audio screen again. It's like something electrical happened and power stopped coming to it, or some small short circuit, I don't know but I am very concerned about road safety.
Has anyone managed to fix it somehow?
Thanks.
When this rudder thing happens, it also resets the audio screen again. It's like something electrical happened and power stopped coming to it, or some small short circuit, I don't know but I am very concerned about road safety.
Has anyone managed to fix it somehow?
Thanks.
#40
I’m getting ALL the 2015 fun
2015 Fit bought from a single owner in 2019 with barely 20K on it. I have only put another 25K on it but have had a bunch of the Fit issues.
I’ve had the solder issue for the odometer panel for at least 3 years and just live with it. The TPS light has been unreliable since I bought it second hand in Jan 2019 (and that meant one time I had a slow leak and didn’t know it until it was totally flat because I just assumed the sensor was being stupid as usual). I had the push button starter problem earlier this year. The dealer fixed it even though it’s long out of warranty because I brought the service memo with me. And yesterday I discovered the CEL/fuel injector fun.
I turned on the car and the CEL, TCS and steering lights came on. The TPM blinked rapidly, which is NOT typical. I took it directly to my mechanic and he called this morning to say the code was for fuel injectors and he recommended an additive and a couple of tanks of high test, but it’s fine to drive in the meantime.
The diagnostic printout was still in the car when I picked it up, and it was code 0172, which isn’t on the service memo I’ve seen linked here.
I had also read that sometimes the gas cap can cause faulty reads, so for the heck of it, I unscrewed it and put it back on. Voila! No lights.
Am I in the clear now? Should I go ahead and do the additive and switch to high test for a bit? Is this car going to nickle and dime me to death? I love the utility and versatility of it but I don’t like the number of issues I’ve dealt with in 3.5 years of ownership.
I’ve had the solder issue for the odometer panel for at least 3 years and just live with it. The TPS light has been unreliable since I bought it second hand in Jan 2019 (and that meant one time I had a slow leak and didn’t know it until it was totally flat because I just assumed the sensor was being stupid as usual). I had the push button starter problem earlier this year. The dealer fixed it even though it’s long out of warranty because I brought the service memo with me. And yesterday I discovered the CEL/fuel injector fun.
I turned on the car and the CEL, TCS and steering lights came on. The TPM blinked rapidly, which is NOT typical. I took it directly to my mechanic and he called this morning to say the code was for fuel injectors and he recommended an additive and a couple of tanks of high test, but it’s fine to drive in the meantime.
The diagnostic printout was still in the car when I picked it up, and it was code 0172, which isn’t on the service memo I’ve seen linked here.
I had also read that sometimes the gas cap can cause faulty reads, so for the heck of it, I unscrewed it and put it back on. Voila! No lights.
Am I in the clear now? Should I go ahead and do the additive and switch to high test for a bit? Is this car going to nickle and dime me to death? I love the utility and versatility of it but I don’t like the number of issues I’ve dealt with in 3.5 years of ownership.
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ShadSlime
3rd Generation GK Specific DIY: Repair & Maintenance Sub-Forum
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07-19-2019 04:37 PM