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I had my car aligned with me sitting in the driver's seat a couple of weeks ago. I am heavy, so it made a big difference. The previous alignment had been -1.0 deg camber on each side with the car empty. With me in the car, it was -0.6 deg on the driver side and -1.5 deg on the passenger side. now it is -0.6 deg on each side. Car tracks much better on the interstate now - drove to Virginia and back from Delray Beach, FL. Less impact from passing trucks. Thumbs up to Apex Alignment in Miami. Next up is to buy some alignment shims for the rear to get it into alignment. Fairly easy but a little time consuming to install. I have previously had the rear stub axles (hubs) off to install longer studs for my rear wheel spacers (the preferred way to do it - bolt-on spacers can have some safety issues and weigh more). Biggest pain is the getting the anti-lock sensor wire back on - it is connected to the center of the hub.
Just FYI for anyone who is interested - wheel spacers change the track width, not the wheelbase. The wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear hub center lines.
I had my car aligned with me sitting in the driver's seat a couple of weeks ago. I am heavy, so it made a big difference. The previous alignment had been -1.0 deg camber on each side with the car empty. With me in the car, it was -0.6 deg on the driver side and -1.5 deg on the passenger side. now it is -0.6 deg on each side. Car tracks much better on the interstate now - drove to Virginia and back from Delray Beach, FL. Less impact from passing trucks. Thumbs up to Apex Alignment in Miami. Next up is to buy some alignment shims for the rear to get it into alignment. Fairly easy but a little time consuming to install. I have previously had the rear stub axles (hubs) off to install longer studs for my rear wheel spacers (the preferred way to do it - bolt-on spacers can have some safety issues and weigh more). Biggest pain is the getting the anti-lock sensor wire back on - it is connected to the center of the hub.
Just FYI for anyone who is interested - wheel spacers change the track width, not the wheelbase. The wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear hub center lines.
First!! Thanks for the correction on wheelbase vs track with.... I got confused but its OK....
Second... I did research on which way to go either bolted spacers, like the one i used and the not bolted style... And went this way becsuse if installed correctly they are not supposed to fail.... I torqued them as indicated on the instruction sheet and they have to be checked and re-torqued after running them a certain amount of miles...and these are hubcentric which are the recomended type to install.... I get your concern and appreciate it... But i think failure is more due to wrongly installing these type of parts..... Or going the WAY CHEAP ROUTE....
😬😬😬
Just placed an order for the HFP suspension set, my front Konis seem to be worn out and I'd like to have a little extra ground clearance. So far this is the best price I've found, thought it would be worth posting in case anyone else is thinking of buying, or has a cheaper source they'd care to add.
$641 before shipping and tax, I know Bernardi does free shipping but they show the same part number at $783 right now, and that's more difference than the shipping cost.
Put HFP side skirts from 2018-2020 Fit on my 15. Took awhile to get them from College Hills Honda. As they were not in stock. But installed in less than an hour. Fitment is spot on.
Put HFP side skirts from 2018-2020 Fit on my 15. Took awhile to get them from College Hills Honda. As they were not in stock. But installed in less than an hour. Fitment is spot on.
Nicely looking!!! Do you have the part# f9r those skirts!!! I kinda love how they look🤩
The pedal feel is basically the same... BUT Since the lines have the steel braided covering, they wont tend to expand under heavy breaking and that will result in a faster and firmer breaking...
So, finally had the chance to dyno the GK... This is the final graph... 📈
I'm pretty happy with the result since the goal was to put the rated 130 to the floor and considering that it's a stock engine with couple of basic "power adding" mods if you can call them that🤪...
148.5 whp
128.4 lbs/ft tq
This are the mods...
-OEM airbox Drop in k&n air filter
-RV6 catted header/collector
- 2¼" B pipe
-Tanabe Medallion axle back
-Tuned with KTuner by Elliot from KMandulos Motorsports (Puerto Rico🇵🇷 FTW)
So, finally had the chance to dyno the GK... This is the final graph... 📈
I'm pretty happy with the result since the goal was to put the rated 130 to the floor and considering that it's a stock engine with couple of basic "power adding" mods if you can call them that🤪...
148.5 whp
128.4 lbs/ft tq
This are the mods...
-OEM airbox Drop in k&n air filter
-RV6 catted header/collector
- 2¼" B pipe
-Tanabe Medallion axle back
-Tuned with KTuner by Elliot from KMandulos Motorsports (Puerto Rico🇵🇷 FTW)
Installed the HFP suspension, replacing worn out Koni Orange and Megan springs. Bigger difference in ride height than I thought, the old springs must have sagged quite a bit. Ride quality is fantastic, body roll is minimal, even compared to when the Konis were new. Surprised they were shot after 45k miles, but I expect the Honda parts to last longer than that.
We installed the Mishimoto Catch Can a while ago. Installed these taillights too. Super bright, but not plug and play. Had to buy an adapter and xacto knife.
Alignment
