I think sea foam was effective for possibly other types of buildup, just does not do well with the GDI buildup. There used to be a product called Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. You'd soak your cylinders in it (by removing spark plugs) and then use a turkey baster to remove the fluid overnight. Then take some, and suck it down the intake while the car was running. Worked great on the 4G63T motors (mitsubishi). Doubtful it will work for GDI where the buildup is mostly on the back of the valves. Maybe sucking it into the intake would work... Cheers!

 

"race" application

"daily drive" application

Smallest I got that was delivered to Puerto Rico... I wanted the aem type one that looks like a saucer but didn't found anybody that delivered it... But this one will serve it's purpose

Yes I know its a bypass... But ill get ahold of an Uni filter motorcycle high flow foam filter element and stuff it inside the bypass.... we'll see how it all goes out!!

 

Greetings from Indonesia,

Just updated my GK5 Jazz with a custom dual mid exit axleback exhaust!
Cheers!

 

Went another route..... Since it was better ...

Found a motorcycle pod filter that has the rubber part to attach it to an intake tube of some sorts... And it has worked pretty well...



Moose racing motorcycle pod filter.. "daily drive mode"

This will still be the "race mode" version! 😋

 

Sold it for more than what I paid for when it was brand new. Bye guys. I have a 2009 base with 180k now. Ima head over to the GE forum lol.

 

Just installed the HFP suspension; exactly what I wanted..the teeniest bit lower but road manners almost approaching stock GD. Almost.

Feels a little more undulate-y at interstate speeds, but under 55 it feels less like a lowered suspension and more like a sports-ish car.

 

So you mean to say it actually handles worse above 55MPH?
Man........that's a bad upgrade

 

Wow. The lowered pic looks like my height on stock suspension. Weird. I saw what I needed to see and looks like it will be coilovers for me. Thanks man.

Don’t know if you can see how close the tires are to the body. Suspension has not been modified.

 

I really didn’t want to put the stock pizza cutter wheels back on after taking off the winter tires. I never liked how far they sat in the wheel wells and the stock Firestone’s are noisy, jarring, and terrible in the rain (I live in the PNW).

These are:
RSSW Velocity Matte Grey Wheels 16x6.5 ET40
Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 205/55R16







Next up: lift kit. When it gets warmer I’ll install my Tema 4x4 strut and spring spacers.

 

My HFP setup looks like the one above also. I've also seen stock Fits that look lower than my car out there. My guess is that the shocks on those might be getting worn out.
If you lower the car more than 25mm, it is recommended you get a roll center adjuster.
More on that here:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ly-driver.html
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Shocks have nothing to do with ride height. I think you mean springs

 

In fact, struts do have an affect to the ride height. Healthy struts have rebound built in, and adds to the spring rate.
As the shock loses pressure, it settles down lower.
Grab one corner of your car with your hands, lift it, and you will see how little force is necessary to upset the ride height.
I changed out my friends struts on an old Volvo that looked slammed, but when we changed all four corners, the car was back to normal height.
Needless to say, the old shocks were completely blown out, and it stayed compressed.

 

Installed these it's similar to the Kouki rod comp. But because of the rona i couldn't ship it to Australia. So I got this hardrace version. They go OK. Now how do I sharpen the front end?

 

Update. Wow hardrace rear brace is good. I have the ultra racing rear sway bar and together it's impressing me so far.

 

Do you have a link? What is it doing exactly? How did you measure the improvement, butt-o-meter? Always interested in proven performance gains... where are you in Oz? I lived in newcastle for 3 years...

 

https://www.hardracesuspension.com.a...3rd-gk3-4-5-6/

Sydney, mate.

HARDRACE Rear Lower Brace are designed to stiffen up the chassis and reduce vehicle chassis flex. This will increase the rigidity of your car during high speed driving and hard cornering. This is why HARDRACE Rear Lower Brace can maximizes the performance of the suspension and brings better handling feeling and quicker response.

. Tubular design to help reduce weight
. Reduce the chassis flex
. Increase the rigidity.

 

From what I can tell i does just that. Noticeable when you go for a spirited drive lol. Improves the handling and quicker response, indeed.

 

Seamus from Tailored Chassis Solutions recommended I remove the front sway bar. So I did. It takes a little getting used to, but I wouldn't set her up any other way...

 

Replaced my 3 year old OEM rear wiper blade - the rubber wiper tore right off during operation. First Honda that had a rear wiper go in less than than 9 years (2002 CR-V, 1994 Civic VX, 1987 Civic Wagon). Cheap #$#$%@!#. Replaced with a $9 BOSCH (354 mm) hoping to get at least 5 years out of her.

 

I am keeping my front sway bar. But will put hard race tower brace, fender brace and lower brace. To me it makes the car stable. Feels like a more expensive car. More composed hugs the bitumen. Confidence in darting in and out of traffic.