3rd Generation (2015+) Say hello to the newest member of the Fit family. 3rd Generation specific talk and questions here.

GK MTX Clutch/Transmission clicking noise? (Long Rant)

  #81  
Old 11-17-2017, 09:35 AM
knope's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: DC, USA
Posts: 316
Post

Originally Posted by CyclingFit View Post
...
In disbelief I saw a stack of washers, telling me that the bolt head would not bottom out so the mechanic added washers until he thought it would tighten down.
...
o.o lulwut, they should be on the hook for this and any subsequent damage it caused.

Originally Posted by CyclingFit View Post
...
even though the bolt did not want to go any farther into the hole / nut / uni-body, the washer were still loose. This tells confirmed that the noises I had been hearing had for sure been the motor mount moving!
...
... remarkable incompetence ... clearly this wasn't a sign that they were using the wrong bolt or anything ...

Originally Posted by CyclingFit View Post
...
I am even more happy if I can install the correct bolts myself to ensure the repair is done correctly.
...
novice question: will an engine crane be needed to do this work? or can this be done with everything in chassis? i ask because my 2017 fit was one of the mexico plant fits, and that seems to be where the original failing in QC has been brewing around the net, and i don't trust the dealership i bought the car from- nor do i know of a "good" mechanic in my area.

Originally Posted by CyclingFit View Post
...
Faithful Honda Fit Owner
classy ending.
 
  #82  
Old 11-17-2017, 09:56 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 320
Originally Posted by knope View Post
..............

novice question: will an engine crane be needed to do this work? or can this be done with everything in chassis? i ask because my 2017 fit was one of the mexico plant fits, and that seems to be where the original failing in QC has been brewing around the net, and i don't trust the dealership i bought the car from- nor do i know of a "good" mechanic in my area.


classy ending.
Hey knope - A crane or hoist is not needed, but a long extension makes life much easier. The engine is resting or suspended on the uni-body frame rail so it can't go down. But, make sure the car is on flat ground and there is no load on the drivetrain from being in park with an automatic, or in gear with a manual. This will guarantee you that everything is relaxed.

You remove the battery and the battery tray just lifts out. Then you can see the front bolt. As for the back bole, it's a little more difficult. You will see two bolts that are holding a bracket, which is holding plenty of stuff just above the other bolt head you need to access.

I still haven't had time to swap out my bolts or diagnose further. I'll order the bolts right now and maybe I'll have them over the Thanksgiving break.

The guys who mess around under the hood all the time, this would be a 20 minute fix if they where methodical and careful with their tools and wiring. I can't stand flexing wires and stuff so I go super slow. I'll plan for an hour from hood up to hood down, plus a beer break in that time.
 
  #83  
Old 11-28-2017, 09:59 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 320
Hindsight is always 20/20.....

Latest Update 11/28/2017

If you don't like reading into this... the summary of what you will read below is, just keep tightening your engine mount bolts and the noise will go away. I'm hopeful you only have to tighten them one time.

FINALLY - I was able to spend a few hours and meticulously investigate and diagnose my noise issue.

If you read my previous posts you will see that I have updated them and I no longer believe the bolts were bottoming out in the bottom of the holes or on the shoulder of the bolt. I do believe I was safe to think the way I did after a series of events that included stacks of washers installed by the dealership during a warranty repair. I previously thought 30mm bolts would be the answer. I no longer feel this way and the OEM 45mm bolts should be just fine, assuming the threads have not been damaged.

I will try to give more of a summary and you can build the story of my disappointment in my local dealership. This local dealership is now under new ownership, finally... Nothing makes me more angry at myself than the fact that I have preached about avoiding this dealer for 19 years, and then out of desperation and because it was warranty, I stopped in...

I am about to make a 2500 mile round trip to Florida so fixing my noise became a priority last night.

First I started by taking things out and making room to properly see what has been going on. Here is a view of the front bolt with three washers. Pardon the dirty engine compartment. I'm more of a twice a year cleaning under the hood type of enthusiast. Also we're under the battery tray...



This picture shows how much thread is engaged with the 45mm bolts. This is with the threads of the bolt sitting on the female threads. Obviously those annoying 'dealer installed' washers are still in the picture. Basically stating that there is A LOT of thread engagement.


So here is where things really took a turn for the worst... My three year love affair with this car may have ended right here. It appears the reckless so-called mechanic that touched my car at the dealer, and installed these wonderful stacks of washers (sarcasm), he must have been terrible with his tools too... This harness connector was disconnected and lifted up for this picture, nothing else was done for this picture. That little electrical tape was exactly as you see it. Exposed copper wire will also be shown in a later picture.
This is without doing anymore than disconnecting the socket connector.





Picture I took as I noticed a little damage and stood there shocked as I noticed no wire loom and a terrible electrical tape job.





Giving this a much closer inspection since it appears this harness has been spun around a power tool and likely had the loom ripped off of it. Notice the open wires showing.


I put a band-aid on this for now and I guess I'll sadly ignore it until this is handled with Honda. The following picture is the temporary fix.

Electrical tape to the best of my ability. Not sure as to its future...


So back to my creaking noises....

I previously said that I felt 30mm bolts had to be the answer and it turns out I was wrong. The 45mm should be just fine. My bolts had been damaged from months of this ticking/creaking sound and who knows how much damage was done by the mechanic. I can tell he struggled with this job by looking at the pry bar marks on my car where he tried to align the engine mount holes.

A professional would simply lay a rag there before repeated prying on the mount.

Here is a picture of the rear bolt being held next to my new 30mm bolts. You can see why I thought 30mm must be the fix. The silver washers were installed by the Honda mechanic. The black washers were installed by me in an early quick fix since the bolt was getting too tight to force it in. A better summary... it took more washer to fill the gap and get the washer to stop spinning on the bolt.

Oddly half way up the threads there is a sealant and just past that is thread damage. I'm speechless over this entire situation.

Also I was curious how far in the OEM 45mm bolt would go before getting uncomfortably tight. I'm wondering if the factory female threads are protruding and designed to work like a lock nut? Anyway, here is a picture of the bolt installed about as far as I was comfortable.

This explains the use of washers. I know I'm still recommending the 45mm bolts the OEM uses, even though this looks like this. There is nothing below the female threads so the bolts should work. Maybe there is paint, primer, or maybe they are protruding head nuts that are supposed to act as lock nuts. Too many assumptions.


I believe the 30mm bolts are long enough for right now. Because I had them and because the 45mm are for sure damaged, I will use the 30mm bolts until I know more about a future fix.



While putting the car back together I was bummed to see that quality control also couldn't install the wire protection correctly so I repaired this too..


These go together like Lego's and there should not be wire showing. They fit so tightly that there is no way this was caused by me or the so-called Honda mechanic. Just fuel on the fire as I feel let down.


Where I stand right now:

  • Once again, no noises because the bolts are tight.
  • The car is a pleasure to drive.
  • I have exposed wiring under electrical tape
  • I have gouges and exposed metal from a pry bar
  • I'm mad at a mechanic and can't blame Honda too much, but the mount being loose and coming loose is ridiculous.
I will likely try to schedule time to sit down with the highest ranking person at the dealership where I bought the car. They have been great to me but they are an hour away. I am going to see if they will attempt to understand the situation and act as a middle man to Honda since Honda doesn't actually like technical talk with their customers...

At this time, because of the wiring issue, I will likely ask that a professional mechanic replaces the wiring harness and installs the correct 45mm bolts, or Honda sends me out the door with the same car payment in a brand new, identical car.

I've always had the dream of seeing how long I could make a brand new car last... Honda mechanics are making it hard on me to fulfill my dream.
 

Last edited by CyclingFit; 11-28-2017 at 10:09 AM. Reason: typo issues
  #84  
Old 11-28-2017, 01:23 PM
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NS, Canada
Posts: 52
Not happy with my dealer either but all they did was leave my splash shield hanging after an oil change....nothing compared to this.

Looking at your pictures, did they put some kind of gasket material under your mount? Do you think you'd be getting these temporary quiet spells if it was still metal on metal?
 
  #85  
Old 11-28-2017, 02:31 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 320
Originally Posted by MelR View Post
Not happy with my dealer either but all they did was leave my splash shield hanging after an oil change....nothing compared to this.

Looking at your pictures, did they put some kind of gasket material under your mount? Do you think you'd be getting these temporary quiet spells if it was still metal on metal?
Yes, it's a sticky sided foam-like material. This was from the dealers first and only attempt at quieting the issue. We were mimicking the some of the original posts regarding material. Also installed at the same time as the infamous washers... I'll probably wish I didn't say this, but I think with the washers removed, I should be in good shape. I don't think the material has much to do with the situation now. I believe the tall stack of washers was the culprit following the mount simply being loose.
 
  #86  
Old 06-14-2018, 05:49 PM
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: NYC
Posts: 117
I have the same problem (2015 EX 6 speed). It was the first thing fixed after a couple of months using the car. It's been almost 3 years now and the creaking sound on 1st gear is back. My warranty is about to expire and I doubt that the dealership will be able to provide a permanent fix. Might have to do this my self.
 
  #87  
Old 11-15-2018, 03:58 PM
evilchargerfan's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: san diego
Posts: 1,997
bumping this up for visibility, and in hopes someone will see it and not resort to creating senseless threads
 
  #88  
Old 11-15-2018, 06:42 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Foothills of the Smokies, east Tennessee
Posts: 691
Originally Posted by evilchargerfan View Post
bumping this up for visibility, and in hopes someone will see it and not resort to creating senseless threads
If this is in response to bertosfit post earlier, he didn't describe it as "clicking," he described it as "shuddering...." could be the result of not being high enough in the revs to shift to second, lugging the engine, or the strange "hesitation" at 2200 rpm, especially in second, that is not uncommon, when shifting to second and being below that after the shift. This post could indeed be his problem, but....I wouldn't possibly call a click and a shudder the same thing.

 
  #89  
Old 11-15-2018, 06:47 PM
evilchargerfan's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: san diego
Posts: 1,997
it is. I didnt bother reading too much into the post.

ah well .... too bad there's no way to UN bump =\
 
  #90  
Old 11-15-2018, 06:50 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 320
Originally Posted by Fuelish View Post
If this is in response to bertosfit post earlier, he didn't describe it as "clicking," he described it as "shuddering...." could be the result of not being high enough in the revs to shift to second, lugging the engine, or the strange "hesitation" at 2200 rpm, especially in second, that is not uncommon, when shifting to second and being below that after the shift. This post could indeed be his problem, but....I wouldn't possibly call a click and a shudder the same thing.
Originally Posted by evilchargerfan View Post
it is. I didnt bother reading too much into the post.

ah well .... too bad there's no way to UN bump =\
My bad, fellas! These two were next to each other on my old subscribed threads and I grabbed the wrong one, before going back and editing my post.
 
  #91  
Old 04-02-2019, 03:44 PM
monkeydave's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: UK - BRITISH CITIZEN (GBR)
Posts: 91
i have the same noise and now i am undecided what to do after seeing cyclingfit total desaster what the dealer did to his wiring loom, that is just terrible

hope no one else has had that kind of damage having their mount replaced

my car is a late 2018 1.3 manual 6 speed jazz and i have had the noise since 100 miles on the clock, i have 650 miles on the car now after 3 weeks ownership and i was thinking the car was pre reg so sitting for 7 months with 16 miles on the clock before i got it so might get better by itself with use like some others on here have experienced
 
  #92  
Old 04-09-2019, 07:31 PM
monkeydave's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: UK - BRITISH CITIZEN (GBR)
Posts: 91
i had a look at my mount and discovered it has some brown stuff on the rubber middle bit (all the pics i have seen have black rubber in the middle) and some rust type stuff (or maybe some grease the factory put on, hopefully) on the lower metal piece, im not best pleased with this, i still have the noise from driving off from stop but my car is right hand drive and the clutch is quiet for all of you who thought it was something to do with the clutch, my noise is in the left side the same as the usa cars though, i need to find tie to get it booked in but it might be september on the service when i get it in

 
  #93  
Old 04-16-2019, 07:52 PM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Bremerton WA
Posts: 27
Such a crappy deal about the mangled wiring harness. I’m new to the Fit world but have always been a car and motorsports guy.

i recently bought a 2018 Fit Sport 6MT with 15k on it.

Anyway today I did an oil and filter change on it, HAMP filter and Mobil 1 0W-20.

Sorry old guy, back on track here. I have noticed my car will make that freak or slight clunk when taking off and occasionally I hear it in second.

So under the car I was looking at the trans mount. While there I noticed there is a kind of heat shield that wraps around the left side (driver) axle.

This shield uses what looks like a stainless mesh washer on both sides of the mounting tabs.

What is really odd is that the shield is not held tightly in place. Bolts are tight but if you just grab it you can clank the thing back and forth.

it makes a clunking sound when moving it around and I can see from the fret marks on the shield that it indeed has been flopping around.

The mounting point above it does the same thing.

Just seems odd that they would allow this piece to float when there doesn’t appear to be a need for it?

Anyway that’s my $.02 on this matter.

While I was at it I was also wondering why Honda would use self tapping screws to hold that splash guard in place?

Most cars I’ve had used those push pins and a real fastener.
 
  #94  
Old 04-16-2019, 07:58 PM
monkeydave's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: UK - BRITISH CITIZEN (GBR)
Posts: 91
i will check that, thanks

on sunday i sprayed some silicone spray on the mount just to keep the rust at bay really, two squirts and the noise has vanished, i didn't tighten anything up either, who knows how long it will last but at least that confirms the part is faulty, hope the noise comes back before the service in september so i can get a replacement non rusting mount that does not leach rust onto my paintwork lol
 
  #95  
Old 04-21-2019, 11:43 AM
monkeydave's Avatar
Member
5 Year Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: UK - BRITISH CITIZEN (GBR)
Posts: 91
has anyone else got the rusting onto their car from the transmission mount ?

here are a couple of pics of mine, you cant see anything from the top you have to get close in



 
  #96  
Old 04-21-2019, 05:38 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Lexington
Posts: 32
QUOTE: "So under the car I was looking at the trans mount. While there I noticed there is a kind of heat shield that wraps around the left side (driver) axle.
This shield uses what looks like a stainless mesh washer on both sides of the mounting tabs. What is really odd is that the shield is not held tightly in place. Bolts are tight but if you just grab it you can clank the thing back and forth.it makes a clunking sound when moving it around and I can see from the fret marks on the shield that it indeed has been flopping around. The mounting point above it does the same thing."

This is interesting. I also have a 2018 Fit Sport 6MT, and it makes the exact same "knocking/rattling/creaking" noise when beginning to accelerate in 1st gear that others have documented. I am getting close to oil/filter change time, so I will look for the mesh heat shield that you describe. If that is in fact the source of the noise, it will be far less worrisome than loose engine mount bolts (but still annoying and in need of a fix).

I have not yet removed the battery to look at the rear engine-mount bolt, but I did reach under the battery tray and feel the rear bolt. Instead of a stack of washers under the bolt head, I felt what appears to be a single, thick metal spacer. Next weekend I will remove the battery and have a proper look.
 

Last edited by jhass; 04-21-2019 at 05:40 PM. Reason: Adding quoted text
  #97  
Old 04-21-2019, 08:55 PM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Bremerton WA
Posts: 27
Funny (but not really) after my oil and filter change I heard the noise on my car. It is a clunk or rattle type sound. My car made it when taking off on a pretty steep hill.

In thinking about that shield at first I thought there was no need to have any play or movement in that heat shield but think that is not correct.

I think there are two mounting points at the back of the motor. The shield is I believe a heat shield to keep the exhaust manifold heat off the CV boot.

In thinking about it I think the rear single mount is to a fixed point on the car. I think the mesh washers and the clearance are what let’s it float when the engine moves.

The single mount at the back (towards the driver) on mine I could take and pull up and down and make a noticeable clunk.

As I mentioned it has been moving enough to have fretted the paint off the mount.

Just guessing but on my car I can probably move that rear mount at least 1/8” or maybe more.

Makes sense when the engine rocks from torque when taking off that it would rock the heat shield.

Next time I change my oil I am going to see if there is a good place to attach a spring to pull upwards and keep the slack out of that rear mount.

If my car had made the noise before I changed the oil I would have investigated it better and attempted a fix.

As you mentioned it is much better knowing this might be the cause instead of the trans mounts.

Just my $.02 on the matter.

Good luck and and let us know what you find on your car.
 
  #98  
Old 04-21-2019, 11:02 PM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Bremerton WA
Posts: 27
Jhass,

No need to pull the battery unless you feel it’s necessary. Both the trans mount and the heat shield are easily accessed if you have the engine splash shield removed and the front of the car raised. I did check my trans mount while I was there. It was tight, no signs of rust.
 
  #99  
Old 04-22-2019, 05:21 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Lexington
Posts: 32
Originally Posted by 96_lxr View Post
Jhass,

No need to pull the battery unless you feel itís necessary. Both the trans mount and the heat shield are easily accessed if you have the engine splash shield removed and the front of the car raised. I did check my trans mount while I was there. It was tight, no signs of rust.
From previous comments by others, I was under the impression that the bolt in question was directly under the battery tray.

Allowing that heat shield to move may be necessary, but it would have been nice if Honda had done so in a way that didnít wear off paint (inviting rust).
 
  #100  
Old 04-22-2019, 10:11 AM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Bremerton WA
Posts: 27
I was looking at the photos from Monkeydave. This is the mount I checked when I did my oil change. Perhaps this is the rear mount people are referring to and not the front mount?

i will take a mirror and see if I can see the mount under the battery.

At any rate when you have the splash guard removed grab that heat shield and enjoy the clicking sound when moving it up and down.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: GK MTX Clutch/Transmission clicking noise? (Long Rant)


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.