if you looking down from the top of the engine everything looks normal but by using a camera from the open area at the back (under the brake fluid on us jazz/fit) you can get a clear picture like the ones i posted, unfortunately that is the rear bolt of the transmission mount, i cant see the front one as the battery is totally covering it

you cannot see any rust looking down from the top, only taking pics from the rear with flash on as its dark in there

 

Thanks Monkeydave. I’m going to take a look today.

 

how did you get on with your mount? did you see any rust using your camera?

 

I just looked under the battery with a mirror and saw that the mount I was looking at was the rear mount. Next oil change I will take a look at the rear mount and take some photos if I see anything wonky with the mount

 

i just thought there was one mount on the gearbox, did you see any rust on the bottom of the mount?

 

No rust on mine

 

thanks for your reply

its probably because mine is white it shows up more than other colours

 

I've noticed a tiny amount of rust starting on the edge of mine. This car has seen virtually no winter/salt driving, so it is disappointing that it is rusting. I've coated the area with anti-corrosion spray (T9 Boeshield) and will keep an eye on it.

 

This is an interesting theory. If there is float/play in this bolt, it stands to reason that it was designed that way. On the other hand, it seems like a very odd approach for allowing the engine to move, especially if it is wearing paint off the mount. I would have assumed that you'd want a tight connection to the car, and that the rubber bushing inside the mount would accommodate any engine movement.

 

its because the bottom metal piece of the bracket doesnt seem to be painted unlike the top u bolt part of metal, maybe because it has a rubber component on the top

the clamp should have all been painted, made from aluminium or had a pad between the mount and the car

i have neve seen a clamp like this, they usually have two bolts on the top and brackets to bolt on the side of the metal beam to keep it stable

 

I agree. I think the Fit is generally a nicely-engineered car, but stuff like this just makes me scratch my head (and grind my teeth). I guess I will be spraying that area regularly with anti-corrosion spray. Unpainted metal? Are they serious?

 

Does anybody know if simply tightening down the bolts that attach this engine/transmission mount to the chassis of the car will cure the clicking/creaking/knocking sound? Or are they already tight, and this is just a design defect we have to live with?

 

i didnt tighten mine down but i did spray some silicone spray on it, at first it was to stop the rust getting worse but it stopped the noise instantly, it came back a week later but not as bad, i then gave it a good spraying at the back too and over two weeks later it is still quiet

i use silicone spray and not wd40 as it leaves a coating when dry and also it doesnt attack paint or rubber

hope it helps

 

Were you able to spray the area without removing the battery?

 

i just did the best i could with the red straw on the can and i think i got most of it under the battery and on the rubber piece in the middle as i didnt remove anything

 

Pictures please? Thx!

 

If you look down directly in front of and beneath the battery tray, you can see the front edge of the engine mount peaking out. You can also see one of the bolts that secures the mount to the car. What I did was park my car on a slope, facing uphill, and spray some anti-corrosion lubricant along the front edge of the engine mount, so that it ran under the mount (between the mount and the car body) and ran downhill toward the back end of the engine mount (which is pretty much inaccessible with the battery in place). I used T9 Boeshield because it is safe on paint, rubber, plastic, etc. and is a great lubricant and anti-corrosion spray. I also sprayed some into the spot where the casting that comes off the transmission goes into the engine mount - it looks like there is some sort of rubber bushing in there. Then, after about 15 minutes, I parked facing downhill and sprayed some Boeshield into spots along the back edge of the engine mount (only a few spots were accessible).

The clicking/clunking/creaking noise is gone . . . for now. I will report back on how long this fix lasts. I don't expect it to last forever, but if I have to re-spray the engine mount a few times a year, I can live with that.

 

already posted look above

 

Maybe I didn’t explain it well but I was talking about the heat shield that shields the left side CV boot from exhaust heat. Because the top of it mounts to the engine block and the rear tab to a point on the chassis there has to be some allowable movement.

i believe that because it is a tin shield and when you wiggle the rear mounting point it is very tinny sounding and makes a fair amount of noise.

At least on mine I think that is what’s making the light clunking sound when taking off on a hill.

Next oil change I will get pics and maybe a clunking video if possible.

 

Update: my application of anti-corrosion lubricant the the transmission mount/chassis interface is still working. The clicking noise is 100 percent gone.