This car requires regular grade gasoline. Says that in the owner's manual. High octane is a waste of money. Owners manual also says it should be filled up with Top Tier regular grade gasoline. Top Tier gasoline is gasoline from companies whose gasoline meets the high detergent specs established by a consortium of gasoline refiners, which they call Top Tier refining companies. It means the gasoline has more detergent in it. It is best to use Top Tier fuel most of the time. It helps keep the injectors from clogging up. Direct injection engines benefit from more detergent. Has nothing to do with octane. Top Tier typically tends to cost about $0.02 to $0.04 US more per gallon than non top tier. High octane gas will not help, unless it is Top Tier high octane. So filling up your tank with top tier regular instead on non top tier regular, will cost you about $0.30 more per tank. BP is top tier. Shell, Enco, Valero etc.. you can look it up on-line.

 

Just bought a used 2015 Honda Fit with 18k miles. The car in great shape and the dash lights just started lighting up. Same issue others are reporting on this thread.

In reading this there is a lot of fixes that the Honda dealership is doing, but does anyone know the real solution? I am second owner and the Honda warranty is already gone.

Where should I start with the repairs?

Thanks for all those who have posted here.

 

sounds like the dreaded INJECTORS failure

lots of topics on here about it, a quick search should show what you need

 

Thank goodness there is info on this. I have a 2015 M/T Fit since 34 miles. I’ve never had any issues with this vehicle. Never.

A week and a half ago while the car was at 109,000 I finally took it in to have new plugs put in and a new brake job. The original pads and rotors were replaced on the front, no service to the rear. Original 4 plugs were replaced. My car clearly had a little extra pep and still does. Brakes work better.

since I have been driving my normal way, 35 miles each way to work and two tanks of gas later. We go for a drive and arrive at our destination. It has been dry and no rain for The past five days now. When we are getting back into the car to go home, I realize that these lights come on. I get out and check the tires, no issues. I shut the car off and restart, they come on again. I shrugged and drove to my next destination in hopes that it would clear up. It didn’t. I also noticed that the blue, light blue, and green light do not change anymore, they stay on blue. I have not lost any fuel consumption or efficiency. No problems with breaking or with engine misfires, hopefully not yet.

I went back to the dealership where it was fixed today and they were going to charge me $65 to diagnose. It would take an hour and a half wait. After having dropped $1000 on the maintenance job a week and a half ago, and $3000 that day to the same dealership for a new HRV, I declined at the moment. They had never heard of that before, wasn’t sure what it could be but if I wanted to wait they would now. Had to get to work and left. I plan to stop by AutoZone to get a free diagnosis on my way home.

I hope my car didn’t get offended because I had to buy a new vehicle, it was staying in the family and being passed down to my daughter.

 

DipShiz. In Con Neck Tie Cut they chargeded you $1000 US for new brake pads and rotors, plus new spark-makers? I woulda been thinking an hour's labor for the plugs and $5 each for the 4 plugs. $120 total. Plus state and local sales tax. Brake pads: $40 for genuine Honda pads and another hour for the labor. Say $150 for the brakes. So I would have figured $275 US total, plus tax, not $1000 Maybe $300. Why? because maybe you didn't really need new rotors – unless you were hearing the "crickit-in-the-pad" squealing for more than about 500 miles before you finally brought the vehicle in for new braking pads, thus giving the pads time to eat the rotors..I figure one pair of rotors should last through at least 2 sets of braking pads. But even if you really needed new rotors: I wooda thinked an extra hour for the labor and $50 for each rotor. $200 So a total of $475, $500. Am I rawngue?

Regarding the dash lights, someone above mentioned something about brake fluid at wrong level or leaking being cause of the lights mentioned. I would have thought that if that were the case, a "brake" light would light up. There is a red light that actually reads "brake" or "brakes"

Yes, certainly, one should have someone attach a scan tool to the port under the dashboard for that can be used for diagnosing things, system 2 (PUTDTCBUFDT2) and see what the port is telling us.

 

None of the engine problems or brake problems that Honda dealers are saying are the problems, should cause the power steering light, the traction control (vehicle stability system) light, and the tire pressure light to come on. For engine problems, only the check engine light (Malfunction Indicator Light) MIL) should come on.. For a brake problem, only the "BRAKE" light should come on. Before I do anything I would try clearing the codes. If that doesn't work, I would remove the ground cable from the battery. Let the car sit for a minute with the cable detached (don't try to start the car) and then reattach it. Then drive it around for a while to see if a drive cycle write any codes again, into memory. If clearing and unhooking don't clear the lights, I'd look into the main computer module. It has clearly misunderstood what sensors have told it.

 

You don't need to stand for that crap, go to a different dealer and report the one that's trying to bend you over the counter to Honda's corporate. That's both a premium high price for 2 rotors, 2 sets of pads, and 4 plugs, as well as a clear miss by their service department when you had the car in their possession last. You gave them premium money they owe you premium service.

😆 lol

This is probably accurate, let's just say the guy doing the labor was slow, and they used the right plugs (laser iridium at roughly $16 each) $650 tops.

It sounds like this dealership is going to nickel and dime dipshiz until they give up and finance something else from them.

bottom line: find a different dealership, or look for recent reviews for local garages.

 

Knope says "You don't need to stand for that crap, go to a different dealer and report the one that's trying to bend you over the counter to Honda's corporate. That's both a premium high price for 2 rotors, 2 sets of pads, and 4 plugs, as well as a clear miss by their service department when you had the car in their possession last. You gave them premium money they owe you premium service."

Looks like you are right about the plugs being $16 each. Ouch. But actually only 1 set of pads. DipShiz has said "no service on the rear" (where they have what they call "shoes" rather than "pads") and a "set" of pads includes pads for both front wheels (2 pads for each wheel).But maybe i am being overly precise.

Not to change the subject but brake service for the rear should be rather more than brake service for the front. A set of shoes for the rear should be maybe about $50 in parts, I'm thinking, and the labor to replace them should a bit higher than the labor to replace the front pads. Maybe 1.5 hours. So $200 parts and labor for the rear.

I find it interesting when one sees "lubricants" added to the bill, separate from the "parts" listing, and in the amount of $15 – especially when the lubricants for brake pads are often included with a set of pad, and consist of a few dabs of special brake grease, graphite grease with maybe a tiny amount of molybdenum disulfide..

 

Same problem with all the lights coming on and "misfire on cylinder 3" code coming up. 2019 Fit bought new and trouble started at 7500 miles. The first Honda dealer's mechanics said I had carbon buildup on the intake valves, and that it was an issue Honda was working on. They told me they cleaned the intakes and that I should "drive more aggressively" to keep carbon from building up. Not very helpful since the CVT doesn't let you rev the engine like you can with a regular transmission. The problem seemed fixed for a few months then started again with a NEW fun problem - the car didn't want to start. Sometimes it took a few tries to get it to start and sometimes it wouldn't start without a jump. I took it to a bigger dealership (where I bought it) and it did all the weird things for them too. They admitted they were puzzled at first and had me leave it there. They found the battery voltage was so low they were shocked I even got it there. They said the battery might have been bad when I bought the car and replaced it under warranty. They said that low battery voltage can cause all of the problems I had including misfires in the cylinders because the system tries to turn things off to keep the motor running. What I had never read or heard before is that keeping the key fob too close to the car when it's off will cause a battery drain from continually trying to connect to the car. That info might be buried somewhere in the manual, but I think that should be in big bold print somewhere folks will actually see it.

 

Let us know after a few months if it still is working well. Hopefully the dealership isn't just putting bandaids to get you past warranty.

You can always put it in sport mode to have the engine hold the rpms with the CVT.

 

Today, on my car, the same set of 4 lights came on. At first the TPMS light blinked, then it went to steady. I'll tell you what I did just before that happened – and that apparently caused it to happen.

I had read in one of the fitfreak threads that some owners had cars with spark plugs that were loose, even blew out! Not sure how a plug can blow out with the coil pushing down on it, but I decided I wanted to check at least one of my plugs, for snugness. So I disconnected the neg terminal from the battery, pulled the wire connector off of the coil, loosed the screw with the 10mm hex head that holds the coil down, and pulled out the coil. I found out you have to rotate the coil clockwise about 45 degrees, before you can pull it up. Then I checked the sparking plug snugness – it was good. So I put the coil back on the plug, tightened the hold-down screw – and forgot to attach the wire connector to the coil. Lastly, I re-attached the negative battery terminal.

Started the car. No dash lights came on, but I heard a miss. Oh shit, what did I do? OK I already told you what I did – I forgot to connect the wires to the coil.

So I detached the negative battery terminal, again, and then attached the wires to the coil. I should have attached the negative cable to the battery, before starting the engine again but it appears that I did not attach it properly. I started the engine. No more miss – but now those dash lights were on. I looked in the engine compartment and saw that somehow the neg battery cable had wound up just lightly touching the negative battery post, but the clamp was not on the post, and was not tightened around the post. I don't know how this happened. Always, when detaching the negative cable, I am careful to move it out of the way, so that it can't touch the battery post. And always, when I attach the cable to the battery post, I don't just place it up against the post, rather, I am careful to place the clamp over the post and tighten it properly. so I don't know how I wound up with the cable lightly touching the battery post.

But – amazingly the engine seemed to run just fine this way – except that the warning lights were on! So I shut off the engine. I saw that the negative battery cable wasn't properly attached, so I put the negative battery cable clamp around the battery post and tightened it. Then I started the engine again. – and no more warning lights.

This series of events suggests to me that perhaps the reason for the warning lights, on some Fits, may be a poor ground connection somewhere. Or any electrical connector, or wire, that has excessive resistance in it, and that therefore causes a reduced voltage to the lights, or to something that connects to the lights and controls whether they turn on or not.. The fix might be to look at where the ground wire from the battery attaches to the car's body somewhere and make sure there is no corrosion there. Even loosen it and make sure the screw-hole does not have paint in it, before retightening it. Check the ground cables that go from the engine to the frame, and from the computer to the frame. Apparently, if there is high resistance somewhere between the neg battery terminal and the car's body, those 4 lights will go on. Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL), Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA®) System Indicator, Electric Power Steering (EPS) System Indicator, and Low Tire Pressure Indicator (Tire Pressure Monitoring System, TPMS, indicator). The TPMS light flashed for awhile, then stopped flashing and stayed on steady.

You can check connector to make sure they are snug. You can use a voltmeter to check for voltage drop across connectors. You can check battery voltage and then check voltage at various points where it should be the same as the battery voltage, to make sure they are the same as the battery voltage. Lower voltage indicates somewhere, where there should not be any significant resistance. Probably lower voltage somewhere, where is should be the same as battery voltage, is what causes the 4 lights to turn on.

By the way, good lucking trying to get the morons at a dealer service department to bring out a volt-ohmmeter and test electrical connections. They would have to know how to understand a schematic diagram, to see which electrical connections, and which lengths of wire, would have an effect on the voltage to the dash lights, or to a sensor or computer that controls the dash lights, and check only those connections. Just testing all the connectors, one by one, and all the wires, would probably take a month. So you have to pore over the schematic to see what you need to check. Just poring over the schematic can take a whole day. The negative ground cable from battery to ground (car body) affects the whole car. I suspect that most dealer mechanics know how to change parts, and that's it. If the car is out of warranty, I would take it a knowledgeable experienced mechanic, at an independent repair shop, who know how to troubleshoot problems. There may still be some, somewhere.

 

I once had this same problem after a hungry rat bit though one of my wheel sensor cables during freezing weather. First the TPMS light blinked, then the other three came on, with the steering assist being the last one. When I replaced the sensor cable, it worked flawlessly and the lights extinguished by themself. That was over 100K miles ago. I am now at 228K miles. Engine runs perfect. Never been to the dealer for this problem, because failure is not an option for me, as it is for them. There are four sensor cables. There are also multiple power feeds on the distribution connector right off the positive battery post. After disconnecting the battery, every one of those connections can be removed and cleaned. There are more off the negative battery post. With patience, cleaning the connections with the "Most Weather Exposure" will solve this. Contact cleaner and an old toothbrush will work wonders for re-establishing corrosion-free connections. Don't forget the main reason - water can get into the connections or connectors and freeze - expanding when it does and loosen connectors that are usually tight. Weather proofing some of them isn't too difficult to do. They make special rubber tape for that. Even electricians tape is better than nothing. When the sensor cable was bitten in half a few years ago, it "opened" a normally "closed" circuit, and the computer responded by detecting loss of current flow and throwing a code. TPMS, Traction Control, ABS, Steering Assist are all dependant on the same four wheel rotation sensor circuits. That's why they come on together. The computer compares the two front wheel rotation speeds with each other and the two rear wheel rotation speeds with each other. When one wheel rotates faster, it "assumes" under-inflation and throws TPMS. When a sensor circuit becomes "open", it "assumes" a lost sensor connection and throws everything else.

 

Still working on resolving my vehicle issue. Replaced all four wheel sensor cables and two rear hubs. All lights extinguised for a thousand miles and then came back on again. I saw "Misfire Codes" and Replaced all spark plugs - originals already had 233K miles and replaced engine air filter. All lights extinguished and came back on again. My vehicle likes the attention I give it, but doesn't like to stay fixed. Will be removing the battery and verifying power connections under the battery box. I have catalytic converter codes, but aren't always correlating to the other four dash lights.

 

@KellyM So a new battery fixed it on your 2019?

 

Four items were found faulty.
1. Battery Terminal Connections inadequate - patient super cleaning required. Codes finally remained extinguished.
2. Brake Fluid Reservoir level found too low. Fill to about 1/8" from the top to avoid excess spilling. Again I observed codes taking even more time to appear after a reset.
3. Headlamps mis-matched. Original was replaced with after-market lamp. Although 2 were bought, only one was replaced. When second lamp (original) failed and was replaced, codes took more time to appear after a reset.
4. Air-Intake Filter Replaced more frequently, codes took more time to appear after a reset. Dusty conditions will create "Air-Starvation" and computer will compensate up to a certain point. A 7,500 to 10,000 mile interval frequency is not unreasonable for drought conditions.

Additional note - spark plugs replaced with E3, but work better when replaced again with factory originals NGK DILZKAR7C11S.
Both Front and Rear Wheel Speed Sensors replaced - no change.
Both Rear Hubs replaced - no change. (wheel hubs had considerable corrosion hear drain hole. The break drum and hub has to be removed to replace the wheel sensor wire for rear wheels)

Summary - Comprehensive maintenance pays big dividends when great care and selection of all replacement parts are applied.
Vehicle now has 280,000 miles and still using original catalytic converter and oxygen sensors.
Amsoil oil (0-16W) and oil filter (EA15K13) along with CVT Oil changed every 10,000 miles.

At first, codes were returning within 5-15 minutes after clearing them. Gradually, they returned after 10-20 minutes of operation. Then 15-30 minutes...finally they extinguished for good.

 

Interesting!

When this happened to me I charged my battery and the lights went off so I replaced my almost 5 year old battery and the lights only came on once after that and have been off for several weeks. It did seem to me like it happened to me when the temperature dropped so curious to see what happens next winter.

I can certainly replace the air filter and was thinking about replacing the spark plugs. And it wouldn't hurt to check the break fluid level.

Thanks for taking the time to write all this down.