I did a search and came up empty- has anyone installed a remote start themselves in their gen3 fit? I am installing one sunday with a kit from MPC (crimestopper unit) comes with a T-harness to eliminate spicing into factory wiring, and uses the factory remote. Just have to bypass the clutch safety switch. Has anyone removed the cluster? apparently the wiring harness is located behind it.

 

If the unit has optional outputs that you can make a low or high signal I would use that for the clutch bypass. In my Civic I did this so that when someone started the car with the key (tire people) they still had to press the clutch in to start it. It is safer in my opinion. Also since the Fit seems to have a way to know that the e brake is up I would wire that into one of the optional inputs too.

 

 

There are remote starters made specifically for manual transmission cars. you should use this.

 

 

 

 

That's what's required to have a safe remote starter on a manual car.

Until car manufacturers provide a blank hole on transmissions to put a neutral switch, this is what you need to do.

 

which mpc kit did you get?

 

 

 

The only kit i saw was a two-way with a Crimestopper RS7. I was interested in the use of the factory remote that you mentioned but I didn't see that feature under the RS7...

 

 

 

Old thread but its the closest I could find to what I'm wanting to share to hopefully help someone. Disclaimer: my posts are for my own entertainment, also the following is not to be confused with advice, anyone who would install a remote start on a manual transmission car is clearly breaking the law, demented, and will surely injure an entire bus full of children when the car inevitably blasts off at 60+ mph in 7th gear killing everything in its path. Now that we have that out of the way... I recently ventured into the demented state of wanting a remote start on my manual transmission, push button start, 2018 honda fit. This post will be long winded but hopefully it answers questions that I couldn't find answers to as I researched... 1. The kit from MPC which is for an automatic transmission Honda Fit will indeed work on the manual transmission version. 2. They send the kit with a wire loop that is to be "cut if installing on an automatic transmission"... Upon receipt the wire loop was already cut so that it can't be used on a manual transmission, this isn't a big deal as it doesn't affect the functionality of the kit. Ok I'm tired of numbering my thoughts now so just stay with me... The kit is plug and play, easy to install, and the instructions were pretty good! The challenge was the mods which must be done to the clutch safety switch (css). The car has two switches on the clutch pedal, the one that will need to be modified is the one on the top with 4 wires coming out of it, the bottom switch can be unplugged to allow better access to the top switch. The switch modification was a real serious PITA, I had to lay on my back, unplug the switch, remove the switch to test the terminals and figure out why it had 4 wires when I expected only 2... After unplugging the top css and removing it I barely had enough room to use a pair of long handled needle nose pliers in one hand and an exacto blade in the other hand to slice the tape/jacket off the 4 wire bundle. The wire bundle is only about 4 inches long and it was very difficult to separate the wires to prepare for splicing. As an aside my goal was to make the remote start install able to be disabled with a hidden switch, this way if my wife drove the car or I took for an alignment it couldn't be started without the clutch pedal depressed but I could "arm" the system only when I had accomplished all applicable pre-flight checks for the aforementioned blast off. In order to ensure that I wired the circuits correctly I removed the switch and tested with a meter. The switch has 4 contacts in a row that create 2 separate circuits. The outer two prongs close a circuit when the clutch pedal is depressed and the inner two prongs close another circuit. So rather than be patient and order a toggle switch that had two separate circuits built in to one switch I ended up with two small push button switches, I could have used a couple of relays but I didn't know what kind would work that would have a low enough current draw to not drain the lawnmower battery this car has from the factory. I installed the push button switches down in front of the TPMS reset switch that is near your left knee when seated in the drivers seat, the switches I used are on/off push button type and aren't visible unless you are squatted down beside the drivers floor mat. Back to the circuit and splicing, the outer two pins of the harness css plug each have two wires, two green on one end and two black on the other end. The inner two pins are one wire each, one white and one black. Because of the confined working area and very short amount of wire available I opted to cut the css harness plug off, I carefully noted the GG, B, W, and BB wires and labeled them using extra caution not to mix up the single black wire with the pair of black wires. After cutting the plug off I (still laying on my back and growing tired of that) used a pair of wire strippers to strip the six 20ga wires, wearing clear safety glasses recommended here... Even though I despise butt connectors I really didn't think traditional soldering was a viable option and I didn't have access to the solder filled butt connectors in my one horse town so I opted for the best "gold plated" butt connectors that money could buy. Using a crimp tool I crimped a butt connector on each of the wires for the 4 terminals. Prior to doing that I pre-crimped a pig tail of long wire on the other side of each butt connector so that I didnt have to lay on my back any longer than absolutely necessary. I labeled each of the 4 newly connected wires to match the colors they were connected to GG, B, W, and BB... I soldered 4 wires onto the plug that plugs into the css and used heat shrink tubing on all those connections, again labeling them GG, B, W, and BB. Then I took the lower panel that the TPMS reset switch is attached to and installed the 2 push button switches, I connected the push button switches as jumpers in the outer GG/BB wire circuit and the inner B/W wire circuit. The final result is I now can push two buttons to make the car think the clutch pedal is depressed and that the css circuits are both closed. If you are going to do this particular type of install it is imperative to do it with the ability to close/open the css circuits manually, here's why: The MPC remote start kit works by pressing the lock button 3 times for the remote start feature. When you enter the car to drive away (assuming you were able to find it after it already drove away sans driver) the instructions from MPC say "don't press the brake, press the start button one time to turn on the ignition" The thing is when I sat down to drive away and pressed the start button the car shut off. I wondered why. So I got out shut the door and remote started it again, the ignition was still off as expected and evidenced by the radio being dark. This time I reached down and pressed the two switches I installed thus making the car think the clutch was "released" aka the two css circuits were in the open position again, after I did this I then pressed the start button and the ignition came on. So, at least in my experience, it was better that I installed these switches because had I just bypassed the css altogether it would have necessitated having to restart the car every morning (so that the ignition would be on) after using the remote start feature. I hope this helps someone in the future to decide to never install a remote start on a Manual Transmission car, I also hope that if they do it anyways they remember to put it in neutral and firmly apply the parking brake.