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TPMS & wheel mod, beating a dead horse?

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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 04:03 PM
  #1  
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TPMS & wheel mod, beating a dead horse?

Ok, during the course of trying to find tires that won't pinch the sidewalls every time a driver hits a pothole (2015 Honda fit ex, 185/55r16 oem), I have been presented with several questions, and a new one today. This site has been VERY helpful and informative. I THINK I have the answer to my question but want to make sure I understand correctly, so please forgive me if I am "beating a dead horse". Info first, then question.

INFO:
I have found 3 rims (2008 fit, 5.5Jx14 ET45, 4x100, according to the phone rep) at one salvage yard that seem to be in excellent condition. then there is one more rim (2007 fit, 14x5.5, 4x100 45mm offset, according to the phone rep). The rep on the 2007 brought up the question of the tpms differences, but says they are the same rim essentially.

Question:
DO I understand this correctly?

Based on the comments in two other threads 1-here and 2-here there is NO contraptions, devices or otherwise in the actual wheel of the 2015 fit series. instead, the ABS unit relies on having 4 wheels of the same size & monitors rotation differences to decide whether a tire is low. Thus I can have the tire shop insert standard valve stems into the 14 inch rims and tires of my choice to arrive at the desired effect, with the possibility of having to reset the tpms light while the car is running, then drive it for at least 3 to 5 miles afterwards before shutting the car off.

Is this an accurate understanding? If not, what am I missing? Thanks.
 
Old Jul 18, 2016 | 07:27 PM
  #2  
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You understand correctly , if you have the rotation sensors style the wheels don't matter, if you have sensors in the tire you have to check fit but most sensors work with most wheels, TMPS is about 7 or 8 years old now so tire and wheel companies have kinda sorted it out.
 
Old Jul 18, 2016 | 11:07 PM
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with the possibility of having to reset the tpms light while the car is running, then drive it for at least 3 to 5 miles afterwards before shutting the car off.

Is this an accurate understanding? If not, what am I missing? Thanks.
All you have to do is push the button and get the idiot light to flash. You don't have to drive it immediately. The calibration process will resume the next time you start and drive the car.
 
Old Jul 19, 2016 | 12:55 AM
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Thank you for the replies. This has definitely been an educational experience. What I thought was a simple idea has presented several things along the way that I never would have thought could be an issue. I guess I am fortunate in many ways that we got the 2015, even if we did get a bit of a pain with the low profile tires.
 
Old Jul 19, 2016 | 11:23 AM
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We've got some wicked potholes in the DC metro and I've dinged up the wheels already and I've had to replace one tire because of a sidewall blowout. So I know your pain.

I'm looking to add 205 series tires on the stock wheels to maybe give them a bit more protection. I think some are running 205/50-16 on theirs with good results and it doesn't change the overall diameter by much. If I can get the local shop to install that, then I'll go that route when my tires wear out.
 
Old Jul 19, 2016 | 11:04 PM
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I have replaced too many tires due to pot holes. Because others have posted about handling differences, etc. I want to stick with the same width, in addition to the mpg benefit that narrower tires are reported to have over wider tires. And with the higher sidewalls, hopefully the ride will improve & not feel so much like I'm driving a horse wagon in a drag race on a gravel road.
 
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