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3rd Generation GK Specific DIY: Repair & Maintenance Sub-ForumThreads discussing repairs and maintenance you can do yourself on the 3rd generation Honda Fit (GK)
I took pics while I adjusted my valves. Bottom line up front: at 43000 miles they were all within spec.
With the intake off, you can see the throttle body bolts there are four, these are the ones on top.
And here are the two below
Comes right off, and I just left it connected by the wires, and the two coolant lines. Leans over to the left pretty easy.
The opening to the intake. I can see there is a restriction in there :/ Waste of plastic...
Couple of connectors to remove, MAP sensor? IAT? Who knows...
A few vacuum hoses to remove also.
Another connector
PCV hose?
Two bolts on this bracket, remove both.
Another vacuum hose
This is a PITA, small screw driver to pull up tab, then another screw driver to pull "permanent zip tie" loose
Intake manifold off
Head with intake removed.
If you zoom in you might be able to see the coking on the valves at 43000 miles
No idea what this is sticking in the middle of the air flow from the underside of the intake manifold but I think I'm going to take a cutoff wheel to it pretty soon...
Pull out the coils which are on the spark plugs, 10mm bolt holding each down.
Wiring harness has to slip off valve cover.
Another permanent zip tie
Remove the 10 bolts 10mm and voila there is your valve train.
Spark plugs with 43000 miles, I did not replace...
The coil and valve cover bolts...
Cam gears, exhaust on left, intake on right. Markings for each cylinder are on the exhaust. Point the cylinder to straight up, and all four valves will be loose so you can measure/adjust. The "next" cylinder marking can be aligned with the surface of the head, so you can be exact (that's how I did it, please correct if I'm wrong, but it worked every time for me with me considering the passenger side cylinder as #1).
Stick an extension in here in the passenger wheel well, use a 19mm socket on the other side to turn the crank, clockwise.
Zoom in and you might be able to see the markings for a couple cylinders on the exhaust gear.
Feeler gage on an intake valve. I put in .009" made sure it got in, put in .010" made sure it wouldn't go without forcing.
Feeler gage in the exhaust side, made sure .012 would not fit in the exhaust side ".010-.011" is the tolerance I saw posted.
The hot "IK22" plugs I bought do not appear to fit, will be for sale soon LOL.
Thin wall socket and a couple extensions is how I was able to remove plugs without removing winshield wiper cowl plastic.
Measure all valves, make sure the engine is ambient (not on for 6-8 hours), good luck!
I change the oil when it tells me to. I drive a 6 speed, hard, and I put around 200 road race miles on it since buying. I bought it a year ago with 13,000 miles. 91 octane, Ow20 Mobil 1 high mileage oil and knn filter. I have not put on a catch can but I want to...
So it goes from 100% to 0% and it will constantly yell at you if you go over. I hear the mileage varies based on driving conditions. In 30,000 miles ittold me to change the oil 4 times :-o
I went to an advanced testing course and a guy in the class was an oil analyst for the army. He said today's engines and oil types can go 10,000 miles easy and not break down. I use the high grade oil and filter and am planning to rebuild my engine in the next 15,000 anyway.