DIY: Independent Fog w/ Original Switch.
#1
DIY: Independent Fog w/ Original Switch.
Before I begin, I know there is question about this working with high beam or not. But this is not to work in conjunction with highbeams.
There are more steps for that and I do not know them. This is just for those FitFreak members that want Independent Fogs.
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself, nor FITFREAK.NET endorse, recommend, encourage nor take any responsibility for the outcome of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
I know you have seen many ways already for setting up an independent fog switch. This info has been gathered from reading all the threads and posts on this topic and of course doing it myself. So thanks to those that figured this out.
I have performed this mini project on 5 local Fits (Including mine) and they ALL HAVE BEEN SUCCESSFUL with NO HIGHBEAM DASH LIGHT ON.
Please follow these easy steps and please do not add on to these instructions, and you will be on your way to Independent Fogs!
Difficulty Level from 1-10: 2
Most Importantly Materials You will need before you begin.
- one 16 - 12 gauge wire about 2 feet legth.
- an "add a circuit" that brings 10amp fuses from your local auto store.
- Cutting plyers.
- Connectors w/ wire crimper or Solder tool
- Electrical tape
________________
Step 1: Remove the Steering wheel dash cover. A little tug will do.
_________________________
Step 2: There will be three harness that you are facing. Locate the harness to your left. This one... and take it out like so.
_______________________
Step 3: Locate the Yellow/Red wire on that harness. And cut it about 1-2 inches from the harness like so.
____________________
Step 4: In this step you may use either a solder tool like Atticus (Fitfreak Member) did or you may use a simple connector like I did. Also, you may now disregard the loose wire from the bundle and focus on only the Yellow/Red wire that is still on the harness. Go ahead and strip about 1cm of wire to bare copper. And either solder or add a connecter to that end like so with a 2 foot spare wire you bought or have lying around that is about or equal to the same width of the wire that is on the harness.
or
______________________
Step 5: Locate the Fuse box door to the bottom left of the steering wheel location like so and unlock and remove the door.
______________________
Step 6: When you look inside you will see the fuse box. Go ahead and remove the 10amp fuse from slot #3 with your little white fuse remover which you should have in your fuse box. I know Atticus was not pointing at slot #3 but just look at slot #3 and remove that 10amp fuse and set aside.
___________________
Step 7: Go back up to your steering dash and run the 2 foot long wire (red wire you see) that you connected with the Yellow/Red wire to the back of the steering wheel and you should see the wire go down the back of the steering wheel dash smoothly like so to where you should then see it reach to the fuse box.
_______________
Step 8: Now this is where you use the "add a circuit". Go ahead a cut the 2 foot long wire (that went in back of the steering wheel) to proper length to get rid of excess wire and connect the 2 foot long wire to the "add a circuit" and use the wire crimper like so on the blue connecter that comes with the "add a circuit".
_________________
Step 9: You will notice that the "add a circuit" has two slots as seen in this pic. Go ahead and add the 10amp fuse we set aside earlier into one of the slots and another 10amp fuse to the other slot. It will be a really tight fit for those 10amp fuses to fit in those two slots in the "add a circuit". But believe me, it goes in.
______________________
Step 9: Next, get the "add a circuit" that you have with the two 10 amp fuses and put it in slot #3 of your fuse box like so.
______________
Step 10: Lastly, make sure none of your wires have exposed copper. If so, use electrical tape and put everything back together (close fuse box, plastic steering dash) and the harness back in place.
Oh, if your wondering about the loose Yellow/Red wire that we cut at the beginning that was in a bundle of other wires, you can electrical tape the end and disregard it.
Thanks to Atticus for providing me with most of the pics. The rest were from my setup.
Did you notice??? There was no need to ground. And the best part... this
There are more steps for that and I do not know them. This is just for those FitFreak members that want Independent Fogs.
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself, nor FITFREAK.NET endorse, recommend, encourage nor take any responsibility for the outcome of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
I know you have seen many ways already for setting up an independent fog switch. This info has been gathered from reading all the threads and posts on this topic and of course doing it myself. So thanks to those that figured this out.
I have performed this mini project on 5 local Fits (Including mine) and they ALL HAVE BEEN SUCCESSFUL with NO HIGHBEAM DASH LIGHT ON.
Please follow these easy steps and please do not add on to these instructions, and you will be on your way to Independent Fogs!
Difficulty Level from 1-10: 2
Most Importantly Materials You will need before you begin.
- one 16 - 12 gauge wire about 2 feet legth.
- an "add a circuit" that brings 10amp fuses from your local auto store.
- Cutting plyers.
- Connectors w/ wire crimper or Solder tool
- Electrical tape
________________
Step 1: Remove the Steering wheel dash cover. A little tug will do.
_________________________
Step 2: There will be three harness that you are facing. Locate the harness to your left. This one... and take it out like so.
_______________________
Step 3: Locate the Yellow/Red wire on that harness. And cut it about 1-2 inches from the harness like so.
____________________
Step 4: In this step you may use either a solder tool like Atticus (Fitfreak Member) did or you may use a simple connector like I did. Also, you may now disregard the loose wire from the bundle and focus on only the Yellow/Red wire that is still on the harness. Go ahead and strip about 1cm of wire to bare copper. And either solder or add a connecter to that end like so with a 2 foot spare wire you bought or have lying around that is about or equal to the same width of the wire that is on the harness.
or
______________________
Step 5: Locate the Fuse box door to the bottom left of the steering wheel location like so and unlock and remove the door.
______________________
Step 6: When you look inside you will see the fuse box. Go ahead and remove the 10amp fuse from slot #3 with your little white fuse remover which you should have in your fuse box. I know Atticus was not pointing at slot #3 but just look at slot #3 and remove that 10amp fuse and set aside.
___________________
Step 7: Go back up to your steering dash and run the 2 foot long wire (red wire you see) that you connected with the Yellow/Red wire to the back of the steering wheel and you should see the wire go down the back of the steering wheel dash smoothly like so to where you should then see it reach to the fuse box.
_______________
Step 8: Now this is where you use the "add a circuit". Go ahead a cut the 2 foot long wire (that went in back of the steering wheel) to proper length to get rid of excess wire and connect the 2 foot long wire to the "add a circuit" and use the wire crimper like so on the blue connecter that comes with the "add a circuit".
_________________
Step 9: You will notice that the "add a circuit" has two slots as seen in this pic. Go ahead and add the 10amp fuse we set aside earlier into one of the slots and another 10amp fuse to the other slot. It will be a really tight fit for those 10amp fuses to fit in those two slots in the "add a circuit". But believe me, it goes in.
______________________
Step 9: Next, get the "add a circuit" that you have with the two 10 amp fuses and put it in slot #3 of your fuse box like so.
______________
Step 10: Lastly, make sure none of your wires have exposed copper. If so, use electrical tape and put everything back together (close fuse box, plastic steering dash) and the harness back in place.
Oh, if your wondering about the loose Yellow/Red wire that we cut at the beginning that was in a bundle of other wires, you can electrical tape the end and disregard it.
Thanks to Atticus for providing me with most of the pics. The rest were from my setup.
Did you notice??? There was no need to ground. And the best part... this
Last edited by SickFit; 07-01-2008 at 03:11 PM.
#3
lol..your gonna piss Sickfit off,, if you had been following this whole saga, you would see why there is now a new thread
thanks Sickfit, gonna do this today
edit.. just finished, works perfect, no ill effects, dimmer works fine
i used the empty fuse slot #2, because it was eaiser to get to and is ignition switched
Last edited by m-man@sbcglobal.net; 06-19-2008 at 12:48 PM.
#7
Let us know how your project goes dude. take care.
#10
I'm doing it in the next few days>>> I'm glad I waited so that I can now make it the way it SHOULD have been from the factory!
+Rep For good work!
I know there was debate in the other thread... but once & for all>>>this WILL work w/ the High beams on, right?!
_________
~Rob
+Rep For good work!
I know there was debate in the other thread... but once & for all>>>this WILL work w/ the High beams on, right?!
_________
~Rob
Last edited by gofastredfit; 06-19-2008 at 03:29 PM.
#11
I wish I had this a year ago when I did mine. It took me like 2 hours to sort through the original Independent Fog thread to make sense of all the directions lol.
FYI: The grounding process is only if you want the Fogs to stay on when you turn on your highbeams. The highbeams will still break the ground connection when they turn on unless you reground the fogs to a constant source.
FYI: The grounding process is only if you want the Fogs to stay on when you turn on your highbeams. The highbeams will still break the ground connection when they turn on unless you reground the fogs to a constant source.
Last edited by Arisenfury; 06-19-2008 at 03:51 PM.
#12
Well, thanks to Sikfit I will be doing this to my VBP Fit Sport manny as soon as I get home from the dealer (picking it up) on Saturday morning! I'll do this mod while I'm putting in the Zeta dead-pedal and dash kit. LOL My wife is gonna be sooooooo pissed, she thinks i won't mod this car
#13
I'm doing it in the next few days>>> I'm glad I waited so that I can now make it the way it SHOULD have been from the factory!
+Rep For good work!
I know there was debate in the other thread... but once & for all>>>this WILL work w/ the High beams on, right?!
_________
~Rob
+Rep For good work!
I know there was debate in the other thread... but once & for all>>>this WILL work w/ the High beams on, right?!
_________
~Rob
The only way I BELIEVE (just a guess) is too have a totally separate switch that is not connected with the harness.
Great question but again guys, this just for independent fogs. I did not include anything for the high beams. Sorry guys.
#14
I wish I had this a year ago when I did mine. It took me like 2 hours to sort through the original Independent Fog thread to make sense of all the directions lol.
FYI: The grounding process is only if you want the Fogs to stay on when you turn on your highbeams. The highbeams will still break the ground connection when they turn on unless you reground the fogs to a constant source.
FYI: The grounding process is only if you want the Fogs to stay on when you turn on your highbeams. The highbeams will still break the ground connection when they turn on unless you reground the fogs to a constant source.
#15
Well, thanks to Sikfit I will be doing this to my VBP Fit Sport manny as soon as I get home from the dealer (picking it up) on Saturday morning! I'll do this mod while I'm putting in the Zeta dead-pedal and dash kit. LOL My wife is gonna be sooooooo pissed, she thinks i won't mod this car