Your going to benefit a lot from a K-series in a Fit unless you can put out about 200whp+ with the L15. I highly doubt that the L15 can handle that much power without upgrading internals + supporting mods. I'm very confident that you can break 12's with a nearly 200whp Fit, if numbers mean a lot to someone. Just a K20a swap alone can throw you into the low 13's.

Yes, a K-swap is pricey(depending on model) but well worth it in the end. F.I. is a nice route but not a lot of support for the internals of a L15(from what I know unless they can be interchangable from the old school Honda SOHCs).

Just my opinion.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if an L15 could put down low 200whp. The dimensions are very close to the old D15/16 motors, and of course the technology enjoys almost 20 years of improvement... depending on the strength of the connecting rods it should be fine. I guess we won't know until people actually start pushing their motors and blowing them up.

 

Agreed. I expect that it WILL be able to put down that kind of power, but the real question will be for how long.

 

I don't see why it can't be reliable... it's possible to reliably run a D16 at that power level if it's tuned... and hopefully the days of missing links and AFC hacks are gone, so Fit/L15 owners will tune their cars correctly!

 

I have no doubt that it can be reliable, but is it going to be 300,000 mile reliable, 200,000 mile reliable, or 100,000 mile reliable? My expectation is that it would be closer to 100,000 mile reliable, since 200ish whp is going to put a good amount of additional strain on the rods, bearings, etc, especially if it's boosted power. Certainly could be wrong about that though.

 

HP Topic:

I would say that Reliable HP if to say Kswap Vs. L15 Forced Induction, that's definately the Kswap.

As for "be able to be" reliable on the edge with F.I. and Tunning, The L15 I agree would be possible at low 200 hp range and still might be reliable, but with less life expectancy.

On the Flip side, if you were to take the Kswaped Fit and added F.I. and tunned it properly for it to "be able to be" reliable on the edge, then you would see numbers in the 350hp range!

So it's still not about HP discussion, I think this this thread should be discussing the "above the line" differences that make one swap more preferrable than the other. B/C if it is HP #'s then the Kswap all the way! Final!

New Topic:

One of the stronger points for the F.I. fit is it's ability and ease of tunning it's agility easier. The Kswap Fit needs some research and testing and basically only one company to put pressure on the aftermarket for ITS "kit cars", and for an aftermarket company to R&D for such a small population at present time, it's going to be a wait! Maybe 5 more years when the fit is WAY out of warranty, and the car is worth 5g's then people will start doing the swap in numbers, and then the need for suspension in the aftermarket might spring up specially designed with the Kswaped Fit in mind. One up for now with F.I. L15!

SO heres the break down:


_______KSwap____ VS.____ F.I.

HP:______ 1______________ 0

Agility:___ 0 ______________ 1

Worth it:_ ? _______________? (to each his own)


Lets keep it on topic!

 

I feel that Stock K20A2 with Short Ram, Race Swap-Header, 60 MM Exhaust, and Kpro tunned, should get you into the 210HP to the wheels range.

Now with that said, if you were to bring it to the dragstrip, you would expect to see, mid - low 13's ONLY.

IF you were to do some weight reduction by about 300+ lbs, then maybe you will be in the 12's. Just my opinion, I will let you know for SURE int the Spring!

This should be in the K20 discussion Thread!! Let's end that now.

 

Of all threads for me to pick... I'm a BIG K-series guy. I'd like to tell you the power potential of some of the ones I've helped build. But MORE possible restrictions at NOPI next year for Kseries is not what I'm going for. Anyways to say the least I WILL be doing a built all motor kswap next winter. On a radial it could see low 12's, and slicks mid to high 11's, but I'm going for road race with my fit so I'll probably only shoot for 260ish whp, but the potential even all motor is so much greater. Also 350whp is VERRRRRYYY conservative power for a stock turbo k. If I were doing a more "reliable" setup, without cams I'd at least shoot for 400whp.

 

are you coming with SY1180 for the next meet... i seriously want to see the k20A2 set up

 

Actually I just remembered we posted the dyno graph on Honda-tech anyway. I'll see if I can find the link. With just cams n valvetrain and a full-race kit with a pt67 on kpro we made just over 600whp on the stock block(spinning on the dyno still). Its still holding up and looking brand new. Granted my friend is easily one of the Top 5 kpro tuners, but you can see the potential if you know what you are doing.

 

Personally i think its kinda useless posting numbers that are possible in a k series car if the car is NOT a fit. K series swaps into older hatches and crx's have been done for quite some time now, and they are at the very least much more familiar to do than one for the fit.


I think that if its cost everyone wants to address, without a doubt F.I. on the l15 is the way to go.


gettinafit mentioned how a k20 would give you a better 'baseline'....but if you do want to move up to a F.I. k20, imagine the labor in gettting all the parts to fit!


I think that the k20/k24 ideas are great, but in reality they are just not for everyone who wants a car that is going to be a painless daily driver. There is no reason why the l15 can't handle boost...200whp or whatever it may be. Personally i'm looking at about 150whp with the JSRC kit, so i don't think that i'll have any real issues, especially considering how this new type of supercharger is supposed to work. (people have been focusing mainly on turbo's which seem to be more costly and be more issue prone. and the only mention of superchargers has been of the 'lag' they have, which is also apparently a non-issue for the rotrex unit.)


I think the point on which one is more cost effective is pretty moot, however if you have crazy plans and don't care about cost, i guess a k series is a go.

but that raises another question...if numbers are all you are interested in, why not do a kswap into an older civic hatch or crx? do you just want a nicer interior and more of a hassle? i understand wanting to be different, but man, what a price to pay.

F.I. fo shizzle. (at least when its with regards to the JRSC)

 

Actually this Fit KSwap is easier and can be done in your driveway. An eg hatch or ek hatch or CRX ALL need Welding, and with reguards to the CRX crazy cutting too.

So As for right now, it is the easiest swap except for the new civic coupe or sedan who wants a K motor. The position of the Fit layout is Engine on the Passenger side and Trans on the Drivers side. That makes it easy for the K motor since it is the same layout. All stock Mounts and locations are used. For the CRX's and hatches, you need to cut off the mount bracket on the passenger side, and you have to weld in a bracket to mount the engine side to the passenger side. With the CRX you have to beat in the firewall!

Basically, the Fit Swap is new, when the car is 5 years or more old and extremely affordable, as well as the Kmotors as readily available at a descent price, this will be a great swap for someone who loves the Fit for what the Fit is, but wants lots more potential.

By the way, daily driving is not effected. Pushing it's limit on the track is compromised without suspension upgrades. So that just makes it a great Street car because what the Fit is for most people. This is not a track car for me, it's my daily, and I can tell you I'm totally Satisfied! K20 FTW!!!

 

Did you not read what I said? I was posting to other previous posters when it came to the dyno numbers. My fit is going to be k20 all motor w/ some secrets inside . Mine will be for road race, therefore I'm not boosting mine. Numbers are bullshit if you can't ****ing drive anyway. And I'm not tryin to make the fit a strip car. Anyways K allmotor> any boosted L15. I'm sure the L15 has potential, but with the money you'd spend doing it, anyone could just as easily do a kswap. Anyways gotta run, this shits getn me irritated and hyped...

 

granted a built k20 has more potential than a L15 but an L15 can be made to perform as great as a stock k20 with boltons for around the same price.

 

I just love all the KEYBOARD EXPERTS arguing their OPINIONS with a guy WHO HAS DONE IT not just run his mouth about his car. WHAT THEY ARE DREAMING ABOUT DOING BUT NEVER GET AROUND TO DOING.

 

this is a thread about the k swap versus forced induction. no one is arguing that it can't be done and that it does not have its benefits. is it the best solution for everyone? no. obviously, otherwise countless companies (including well known japanese tuners) wouldn't be making parts for the l15 to being with.

This is a thread for discussion, and if the k20 swap is in fact the end all for the fit's performance, that would mean that there would be no question, and this thread wouldn't exist.


how's that for a bit of keyboard expertise?

 

actually i did.

did YOU not read the previous posts with regards to boosting the l15? and no, its not an issue of 'just as easily doing a k swap'.

not everyone has the time or money to do a kswap, and no one is questioning those who are doing it, but is simply not as cost effective and does result in more work than say, throwing the JRSC on the fit.

if you got the dough, fine, but don't sit here and say that a fit isn't a decent road race car unless it has a k20 in it. for most people, including myself, a boosted l15 will be plenty fun. again, like i said, (and like i thought YOU had read) it depends on your wants/needs. And even though getting a fit has stressed that a fit is easier to swap a k into, a fit starts out more expensive than an old crx or civic. SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive. you just can't get around that. but whatev. its everyone's money and we can all do what we will with it.

Sorry that 'this shits getn you irritated'.

 

exactly. heck if not less than a stock k20 with bolt ons.


besides, here in the u.s. k20 OR f.i fits are far and in between so the chances of rolling up to a k20 powered fit and getting beat will be slim to none. and hey, they have a k20, so it'd be deserved/understood.

 

Sorry, bad night last night. Didn't mean to take it out on you . A boosted L15 would still be fun, but JRSC has been proven time and again to make shit for power on 95% of all honda motors. I have yet to be impressed by one so far anyway. It's better than nothing I'm sure, but if anything, the best bang for your buck if you didn't want to go K, is to go turbo. Small size turbo would result, especially with a standalone not a pre-tuned ecu, in probably 200whp. It wouldn't be hard to do if people are doing "legit" setups. I'd say a gt3076 or smaller would be fine. 3076 being on the high side.

Anyways to each his own . As long as people are happy with their car thats all that matters. I can get parts cheaper than most people so I can probably do a built kswap for the price most will spend on a boosted L. Either way if some of you guys need help finding parts, to boost the L, or go K, let me know and I'm sure I can help you out.

 

If you're talking to me I have a sleeved k20 in my garage that I'm building right now. I'd tell you what's inside, but then I'd have to kill you