KraftWerks Supercharger Kit Info v2.1
#321
#322
whoa whoa whoa my friend! so the a/t kit makes its tq a little differently? and the rotrex unit itself is unique to the kit? have you sampled an a/t rotrex-charged fit chris?
#323
Rotrex makes a C15-60 and a C15-16 supercharger... he's probably referring to the C15-16 for the A/T kit....
#324
good point. i was reading about the two different c15's available. if they do use the 16 on the a/t, that means they are using the one that can spin to higher rpms.
#325
i'm very interested in these numbers as well, as now its not just a matter of 'well, we have a torque converter and weigh more, so there is more drivetrain losses', becaue we are using a different version of the c series rotrex charger!
i'm hoping for a real nice low end! i don't really care to much about quarter miles. this is just my dd
i'm hoping for a real nice low end! i don't really care to much about quarter miles. this is just my dd
#326
We already knew that there was no high-boost a/t kit. I'd rather have the better low-end kit, personally. At least we know the reason why now. I mean, that was a collective good guess before, but best to hear it direct from the source that it would probably strain the stock a/t setup.
Last edited by xorbe; 05-19-2008 at 07:00 PM.
#328
i'm not sure if this answers your question, but when i picked up my kit, i got to look at the test fit a/t sc. Oscar jr. explained that because there won't be a high boost kit for the a/t guys (sorry guys ) they opted for the smaller rotrex for the better low end. There won't be a high boost kit for the a/t guys because they don't think the tranny'll survive the extra power. Lastly, they used to smaller rotrex for the better low end because the auto tranny's are geared taller than the manual tranny's (ex. 100mph = about 4k ~4.5k on a/t and 5k on manual tranny).
interesting! thanks for the info man! i dont think that either version is going to lack low end or top end, but they appear to have different high points, and in the a/t versions case, its nicer low end.
but how do we figure that the smaller rotrex=more low end? i know the auto is geared differently, just wanted to know in laymans terms. but thanks for the info man.
#329
So, basically the -16 trim is pushing harder even at lower rpms, but it can't push the same volume as the "larger" -60 trim model. I think that's what is happening, correct me if I'm wrong of course. Kinda "spools faster, but less potential" but different...
What we need is a model like the Porsche turbo with the variable angle fins.
Anyone know what the surge line and the percentages on the Rotrex charts mean?
Last edited by xorbe; 05-19-2008 at 11:43 PM.
#330
If you look at the Rotrex PDF, you will see that the C15-16 has less peak air throughput, *but* it can develop more static psi (within spec, anyways!). What this probably means physically is that the blades are not as angled -- they push less air, but they push harder, effectively. (I'm used to thinking about this effect due to my rc airplane/jet hobby...)
So, basically the -16 trim is pushing harder even at lower rpms, but it can't push the same volume as the "larger" -60 trim model. I think that's what is happening, correct me if I'm wrong of course. Kinda "spools faster, but less potential" but different...
What we need is a model like the Porsche turbo with the variable angle fins.
Anyone know what the surge line and the percentages on the Rotrex charts mean?
So, basically the -16 trim is pushing harder even at lower rpms, but it can't push the same volume as the "larger" -60 trim model. I think that's what is happening, correct me if I'm wrong of course. Kinda "spools faster, but less potential" but different...
What we need is a model like the Porsche turbo with the variable angle fins.
Anyone know what the surge line and the percentages on the Rotrex charts mean?
ah ok. thanks man! and ditto on the porsche fins!
#332
A few of the bolts attaching the alternator are difficult to get it. Definitely the hardest part is bending those lines without kinking them. Would recommend having some extra self tapping screws on hand as the frame is extremely strong. Ummmmm installing the serpentine belt is not too bad if you use a 19mm socket for leverage. Two people would be best for this, but you can do it alone. If you get upgraded injectors, they are a pain to get in. The new ones are quite large. Even with the new studs and spacers, we could only thread maybe one rotation of the nut onto the stud. It's tight in there! What else...just make sure you check you have everything when it arrives. Check the hoses, clamps, etc. and make sure everything is there.
But yeah, Leonine, I know you have the Mugen headers, how close are they to the intake inlet to the SC? The T1R headers are only a few mm away and will definitely need a heat wrap to protect the piping and connectors...
But yeah, Leonine, I know you have the Mugen headers, how close are they to the intake inlet to the SC? The T1R headers are only a few mm away and will definitely need a heat wrap to protect the piping and connectors...
#333
A few of the bolts attaching the alternator are difficult to get it. Definitely the hardest part is bending those lines without kinking them. Would recommend having some extra self tapping screws on hand as the frame is extremely strong. Ummmmm installing the serpentine belt is not too bad if you use a 19mm socket for leverage. Two people would be best for this, but you can do it alone. If you get upgraded injectors, they are a pain to get in. The new ones are quite large. Even with the new studs and spacers, we could only thread maybe one rotation of the nut onto the stud. It's tight in there! What else...just make sure you check you have everything when it arrives. Check the hoses, clamps, etc. and make sure everything is there.
But yeah, Leonine, I know you have the Mugen headers, how close are they to the intake inlet to the SC? The T1R headers are only a few mm away and will definitely need a heat wrap to protect the piping and connectors...
But yeah, Leonine, I know you have the Mugen headers, how close are they to the intake inlet to the SC? The T1R headers are only a few mm away and will definitely need a heat wrap to protect the piping and connectors...
#334
i'm waiting on hondata kit to release and i'll more than likely go for the kit then
i'll keep you guys updated
i plan on running t1r header>t1r testpipe>spoon n1
Illusive & DynamicFit: if you get the chance can you post pics of your setup??
Thanks,
Ricky
i'll keep you guys updated
i plan on running t1r header>t1r testpipe>spoon n1
Illusive & DynamicFit: if you get the chance can you post pics of your setup??
Thanks,
Ricky