the best header to use is going to be the weapon r race header... the megan stuff is just fine tho. it has held up for 30k boosted miles with no problems.

 

the weapon r street header is really nice as well

 

For high boost applications, I think it would be a safer move. Though high compression is good, it's only good up to a certain point. And considering how the L15A's compression is already high, you'd be more prone to detonation.

From what I could gather, lowering the compression a bit will help keep the reliability in tact.

Please correct me if I'm wrong...I kind of rushed my thoughts on this one because it's late.

 

yes but with such a small engine lowering the comp with require much more boost or nitrous to get it going. If you run golden eagle sleeves, forged rods, and 11:1 pistons you make tons of power on 10lbs kwsc.

 

^I understand that, but I wouldn't want to risk detonation for power, unless the car is going to be a fully built race car. Also, given the "spool" characteristics of a super charger, my opinion is that you'll be able to add more boost and get the car going just fine. Again, just my opinion...so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

 

With the Rotrax supercharger that uses a traction drive constant velocity transmission the boost is consistent from the time it starts up throughout red line..... Lowering the compression and adding boost would require more power to produce higher revs or larger supercharger and would be counter productive..... With a turbocharger the higher the engine revs under power the more the boost increases until the waste gate opens usual at the peak of the power band.... An engine that is tuned with rational air to fuel ratio and ignition timing should be fine with a high compression ratio provided too much boost isn't used causing over stress of the moving parts..... Methanol/water injection raises the octane rating of the fuel and lowers combustion chamber temperatures allowing for leaner A/F ratios, more timing advance, higher compression ratio and (or) an extended combustion chamber life..... I think a lowered compression ratio when using boost is a thing of the past, though that was a common practice on turbocharged engines for a long time.

 

i also have a question, with the high boost kit, would i need to have a custom tune after installation?

or it can be just simply all plug and play?

 

My High Boost upgrade arrived yesterday.... The main reason I got it instead of trying to get the same results from a stand alone tuner is the Hondata reflash that is part of the package..... The Hondata tuning is only available on the KWSC High Boost package and was researched and tested for a very long time before it was made available to the public..... After having the Base Kit on my car for a year with the only maintenance required being a single belt adjustment shortly after installation and the fun I have had with my car since getting it.... I went without spending money for things I could do without and it didn't hurt me at all and now I will soon be driving with an additional trouble free 40 horsepower.

 

Highboost comes with Hondata... PLUG AND PLAY.

 

i love how everyone here always throws around the word PSI as if it was exact... 10PSI.. 12PSI why not? it should be that simple right?

I had a supercharged car for 3 years, and on the forums i was on you would get chewed out saying stuff like that. because each car has different boost even with the same or simular setups.

if you had EXACT same setups the difference can be between if it was dyno tuned or using a tuner kit. I remember i had mine dyno tuned and everyone always PMed me telling me how lucky i was that i was dyno tuned and thats why i had so much power for the modifications i had.

i changed my pulley 3 times to get my ideal boost i wanted which was 10~PSI, i ended up going with a 3.2 pulley which generally gives a 8 PSI for the kit i used, but i had 10PSI with it.

i kinda wanna see someone try and max out these honda fit motors.. i curious to see what it can hold maximum before motor's and transmissions need rebuilding.. good luck on your journey


sorry for the long lecture.. its just hard for me to read something like this with my experience being boosted for a while.

 

Did you have a Rotrex with constant variable ratio traction drive?

 

funny how my boost gauge readings increase with higher rpm (full throttle)

 

Several people above said to get the block sleeved....I did a search and didn't find anything out there for the L15a...I hope since it being recommended that it indeed exists....

 

How much of an increase in boost at higher RPM at WOT??? Base Kit or high boost???

 

Corky Bell 'taught' me that tensile stress on a stock piston/rod/crank is much much greater (up to 3x) than compressive stress. The man says poor air/fuel/heat (ping of death) is more likely to kill an engine than too much boost. But if there is no way to tune at higher than 10 psi then indeed there is no hope.