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New/Upgraded Battery Install 51r

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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 02:03 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by codenamezero
$20 to replace a battery...? what a ripoff...
Seriously, it takes 2 minutes to take the old battery out and put the new one in
 
Old Mar 13, 2011 | 01:42 PM
  #42  
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Just did this today, I've had it with Yuasa batteries. I've never had good luck with them, both in cars and motorcycles.

The Rayovac battery pictured fit just fine with a slight trim of the plastic battery tray and cover. It is a snug fit, but there definitely IS enough room for this battery. I picked mine up from batteries plus for $77.

Thanks for creating this thread ZX!
 
Old May 23, 2012 | 01:27 AM
  #43  
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Has anyone installed this with a T1R intake? I don't have my old stock box to compare clearances.... I am hoping this will help with my electrical woes (headlight/tailight/everylight flicker and sluggish startup)
 
Old May 23, 2012 | 07:01 AM
  #44  
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I've been dreading the day that the battery will need to be replaced. This set up is a tight one though. Hope you get an answer about your intake. I've got an 2007 too with about 29,000 miles on it - hoping the battery will last a little more longer!
 
Old May 23, 2012 | 08:05 PM
  #45  
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The upgrade did not help with the flicker when AC comes on, but the start up is noticeably stronger.
 
Old May 25, 2012 | 01:06 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Cat
I've been dreading the day that the battery will need to be replaced. This set up is a tight one though. Hope you get an answer about your intake. I've got an 2007 too with about 29,000 miles on it - hoping the battery will last a little more longer!
I'm actually on my second Honda Battery my factory one only lasted until 65K miles or so... I'd like something with a bit more juice.
 
Old Aug 5, 2014 | 09:57 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
The engine doesnt do a whole lot of rocking side to side first of all, second the intake box is plastic, and there are now a couple people who've done this with no issues. If the engine is moving that much laterally you have other problems, like bad motor mounts.

The Intake pipe and TB have a soft coupler and are able to move. If it was a "serious problem" as you claimed in the other thread we would have heard something.

Hi, I hate to bump an old thread but this is the only comment I could find on this.


I'm not sure why mine is an anomaly, but the 51R battery (specifically Costco Kirkland model) doesn't fit well at all.


FWIW it looks identical to the 100's of pictures I see of a 51R battery install. Except the battery is wedged between the intake (or TB, I'm not familiar enough with what is what, the pictures on page1 show what part it's up against) and the fuse box well enough to couple the two. Cabin engine noise increased dramatically and you can feel vibrations through the pedals and steering wheel at certain RPM's.


Has anyone else experienced this? Can the fuse box mount be bent back to give some more clearance?


Thank you
 
Old Aug 5, 2014 | 10:36 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by blakefit
Hi, I hate to bump an old thread but this is the only comment I could find on this.

I'm not sure why mine is an anomaly, but the 51R battery (specifically Costco Kirkland model) doesn't fit well at all.

FWIW it looks identical to the 100's of pictures I see of a 51R battery install. Except the battery is wedged between the intake (or TB, I'm not familiar enough with what is what, the pictures on page1 show what part it's up against) and the fuse box well enough to couple the two. Cabin engine noise increased dramatically and you can feel vibrations through the pedals and steering wheel at certain RPM's.

Has anyone else experienced this? Can the fuse box mount be bent back to give some more clearance?

Thank you
That's how it is. I removed the stock plastic that surround the battery, then I went to Home Depot and brought one of those stair step rubber mat. I cut one out that has the same size of the battery tray, and used it to cushion the 51R battery, then I cut another smaller piece out to have it sit on top of my battery where I clamp the battery holder.

It had been running like this for 6 months without any issue. I think this is better because the rubber mat actually absorb some vibration, plus without the stock battery cover, my battery is not touching the intake (only have a few mm gap though).

PS: You should push the battery to the left (fender) side as possible, and don't let it touch the engine/intake, otherwise the vibration will transfer to the battery/body and constant vibration to a battery is not good (I mean they are made to withstand vibration and pothole and stuff, but still).
 
Old Aug 5, 2014 | 11:04 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by codenamezero
PS: You should push the battery to the left (fender) side as possible, and don't let it touch the engine/intake, otherwise the vibration will transfer to the battery/body and constant vibration to a battery is not good (I mean they are made to withstand vibration and pothole and stuff, but still).

...this confuses me, because in my situation there is literally no space, moving it at all in either direction isn't possible. It's firmly wedged between the two - it's coupled with the engine vibrations.
 
Old Aug 5, 2014 | 11:06 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by blakefit
...this confuses me, because in my situation there is literally no space, moving it at all in either direction isn't possible. It's firmly wedged between the two - it's coupled with the engine vibrations.
Did you remove the OEM battery cover? Also, all batteries could be 51R, but there could be some slight variations, maybe a few mm bigger or smaller. I could take a picture tonight on mine.
 
Old Aug 5, 2014 | 11:49 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by codenamezero
Did you remove the OEM battery cover? Also, all batteries could be 51R, but there could be some slight variations, maybe a few mm bigger or smaller. I could take a picture tonight on mine.


Yes, the battery cover is gone.


I'd lean towards you being right with tolerances, because I seem to be alone with this issue... as if every tolerance on every part just happens to be working against me.
 
Old Aug 5, 2014 | 10:49 PM
  #52  
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The 51r is only slightly wider than the 151r. The tray has a "lip" that goes up around the base of the battery. I sawed off the side of the cover with my dremel tool. It is very easy, you could even do it with a basic saw. That way, my 51r battery sits snug in the tray and hangs ou the side where I cut off the lip.

I've noticed no problems at all. I've even left my dome light on all night and my car started without a hitch. The dome light burned out shortly after though but I replaced the bulb for 3$. My car starts up with confidence even in the harshest of cold canadian weather. It was my most important mod, IMO.
 
Old Mar 3, 2015 | 09:52 PM
  #53  
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I forgot about this last year, but for anyone having the same issue I thought I'd follow up.

I bent the fuse box mount a bit and REALLY wedged the battery against it. Some vibrations are still trasferred through, but it's bearable. I usually loosen the battery, wedge it against the fuse box and re-tighten the mount before long trips to keep the car quieter. It shifts back a bit over time and things get louder.

Car runs great, started great all winter. What a difference turning the engine over in -20C mornings.

Thanks everyone for your replies!
 
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