Tell me about serious n/a mods to the Fit engine.
#1
Tell me about serious n/a mods to the Fit engine.
I haven't been able to find much info. It seems there aren't many, if any, shops doing serious hp mods to the Fit. Has anyone installed all the standard hot rod mods to this engine; full exhaust system and header, intake, cams, head work, raised compression, tuneable ecu, etc? I'd think an engine modded in this way could make 130-140 hp or so at the crank. I know a lot of people have installed a few of the above mentioned parts, mostly intakes and exhaust components, but I'm talking about all of the above on one engine. Does anyone do headwork on these engines? Any cam suppliers? I don't plan on doing this stuff myself, but I'm wondering what's available and what's known about making these engines make more power.
Last edited by Greasyman; 11-05-2014 at 01:03 AM.
#2
98 views and no responses confirms my suspicions that there just isn't much info or equipment out there. I'm a bit surprised, because afaik the Fit/Jazz is a good seller worldwide, so I'd think there'd be a market for some serious parts.
#3
Add one more view, but now a response too. A member just posted about a crankshaft or cams. It started with a "c" in the "What did you do to your GD Fit today" thread recently. The Weapon-R intake manifold purports to add 10-30 or so horsepower. Check out the "Post your dyno sheet here" thread to get an idea of what everyone is running and the gains therefrom. Sadly, not a lot of people are modifying the Fits like other vehicles which may explain the shortage of parts and lack of Hondata support for the 2009+ Fits.
#4
Here's some good threads:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...p-what-do.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ec-tuning.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...40-hp-fit.html
This has been covered quite a bit, and the active GD members/drivers have all but disappeared from here. Good luck.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...p-what-do.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ec-tuning.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...40-hp-fit.html
This has been covered quite a bit, and the active GD members/drivers have all but disappeared from here. Good luck.
#7
First start with a Hondata FlashPro. ONLY worth while way to tune the GD.
with I/H/E I have gone from 89whp to 112whp
Weapon R race header combined with full length 2.25" exhaust was the biggest difference.
Running the cooler IK-22 plugs and 91 octane also made a big difference. The little L15A1 likes to pull as much as 5-9 degrees of timing at WOT. Running the higher octane and cooler plug, combined with entirely too much dyno time has let me get it to where it only occasionally pulls 1-2 degrees.
I race in SCCA Sport Touring FWD which restricts me to bolt on bits, nothing past the TB inlet, and requires i keep a "high flow cat." I plan to progress into a different class later this coming 2015 season which will let me do some porting, completely free as far as intake tract and make the switch to E85.
Still, assuming something like a 17% drive train loss, I'm easily at the 130 crank wheel horsepower.
IIRC, the Skunk2 tuner demo car had head porting done. Not anything excessive, just de shrouding and a small "pocket port" with good results. The head is relatively thin though so there was a noticeable effect on cooling.
Pistons and rods are easy and off the shelf. Cam's are the hard part. CAT Cam's is located in the UK and makes a few options, but isn't readily available. Also, an adjustable cam gear would be a huge help, but with our engine being Chain driven, and it being not easily accessible under the upper plenum no one has yet gone to the effort. Borrowing tricks from my Dad's old motorcycle tuning days, I may look into "slotting" a spare cam gear. The stock valve train is relatively stout and doesn't start to float till pushed past 8K. I daily mine and run it out to 7.5K for more than 30K miles now with no issues.
I'm sure I have more related info in my brain or build but cannot drag it out at the moment lol
with I/H/E I have gone from 89whp to 112whp
Weapon R race header combined with full length 2.25" exhaust was the biggest difference.
Running the cooler IK-22 plugs and 91 octane also made a big difference. The little L15A1 likes to pull as much as 5-9 degrees of timing at WOT. Running the higher octane and cooler plug, combined with entirely too much dyno time has let me get it to where it only occasionally pulls 1-2 degrees.
I race in SCCA Sport Touring FWD which restricts me to bolt on bits, nothing past the TB inlet, and requires i keep a "high flow cat." I plan to progress into a different class later this coming 2015 season which will let me do some porting, completely free as far as intake tract and make the switch to E85.
Still, assuming something like a 17% drive train loss, I'm easily at the 130 crank wheel horsepower.
IIRC, the Skunk2 tuner demo car had head porting done. Not anything excessive, just de shrouding and a small "pocket port" with good results. The head is relatively thin though so there was a noticeable effect on cooling.
Pistons and rods are easy and off the shelf. Cam's are the hard part. CAT Cam's is located in the UK and makes a few options, but isn't readily available. Also, an adjustable cam gear would be a huge help, but with our engine being Chain driven, and it being not easily accessible under the upper plenum no one has yet gone to the effort. Borrowing tricks from my Dad's old motorcycle tuning days, I may look into "slotting" a spare cam gear. The stock valve train is relatively stout and doesn't start to float till pushed past 8K. I daily mine and run it out to 7.5K for more than 30K miles now with no issues.
I'm sure I have more related info in my brain or build but cannot drag it out at the moment lol
#8
Thanks for the info, 23 hp is pretty significant. I think I've seen your car at Oakland. The Fit I always see is Tyler's, with the big green mustache. I run a Miata in SSM and make most of the events, next time I see your car I'll be sure to come by and say hi.
Last edited by Greasyman; 11-21-2014 at 09:15 PM.
#9
Haha yep I'm Tyler. Hoping we get some events soon! I have all kinds of crazy ideas for NA L15 power if I weren't building for a SCCA class lol
#10
That's funny, I was picturing your car as black. It's been so long since there's been an event there, I forgot. That car of yours is fast. I ran my old Scion xB a couple of times and you were quite a bit quicker than me. The Scion was stock, but I did have RE 11s on it.
#12
I'm very interested in your 'crazy ideas'. Please share! I'm all about crazy and like to think 'outside of the box' at every opportunity.
#14
Nah! I never consider myself important since I try to work as a team. If it's a benefit to us all, I post up particular mods in a thread by itself. The Fit I drive is just another Fit in the whole scheme of things.
Currently mods are in my sig but as more come, I'll try to fit more into it.
Currently mods are in my sig but as more come, I'll try to fit more into it.
#15
Nah! I never consider myself important since I try to work as a team. If it's a benefit to us all, I post up particular mods in a thread by itself. The Fit I drive is just another Fit in the whole scheme of things.
Currently mods are in my sig but as more come, I'll try to fit more into it.
Currently mods are in my sig but as more come, I'll try to fit more into it.
#16
Wonder what the possibility of swapping the l15b pistons into an l15a motor.
on an interesting side note the l15b wrist pin is fully floating rather than a press in.
Part number 4 really makes me think light weight h beam rods+l15b pistons=na l15a fun.
CRANKSHAFT/PISTON - CRANKSHAFT for 2015 Honda FIT
on an interesting side note the l15b wrist pin is fully floating rather than a press in.
Part number 4 really makes me think light weight h beam rods+l15b pistons=na l15a fun.
CRANKSHAFT/PISTON - CRANKSHAFT for 2015 Honda FIT
#17
First start with a Hondata FlashPro. ONLY worth while way to tune the GD.
with I/H/E I have gone from 89whp to 112whp
Weapon R race header combined with full length 2.25" exhaust was the biggest difference.
Running the cooler IK-22 plugs and 91 octane also made a big difference. The little L15A1 likes to pull as much as 5-9 degrees of timing at WOT. Running the higher octane and cooler plug, combined with entirely too much dyno time has let me get it to where it only occasionally pulls 1-2 degrees.
I race in SCCA Sport Touring FWD which restricts me to bolt on bits, nothing past the TB inlet, and requires i keep a "high flow cat." I plan to progress into a different class later this coming 2015 season which will let me do some porting, completely free as far as intake tract and make the switch to E85.
Still, assuming something like a 17% drive train loss, I'm easily at the 130 crank wheel horsepower.
IIRC, the Skunk2 tuner demo car had head porting done. Not anything excessive, just de shrouding and a small "pocket port" with good results. The head is relatively thin though so there was a noticeable effect on cooling.
Pistons and rods are easy and off the shelf. Cam's are the hard part. CAT Cam's is located in the UK and makes a few options, but isn't readily available. Also, an adjustable cam gear would be a huge help, but with our engine being Chain driven, and it being not easily accessible under the upper plenum no one has yet gone to the effort. Borrowing tricks from my Dad's old motorcycle tuning days, I may look into "slotting" a spare cam gear. The stock valve train is relatively stout and doesn't start to float till pushed past 8K. I daily mine and run it out to 7.5K for more than 30K miles now with no issues.
I'm sure I have more related info in my brain or build but cannot drag it out at the moment lol
with I/H/E I have gone from 89whp to 112whp
Weapon R race header combined with full length 2.25" exhaust was the biggest difference.
Running the cooler IK-22 plugs and 91 octane also made a big difference. The little L15A1 likes to pull as much as 5-9 degrees of timing at WOT. Running the higher octane and cooler plug, combined with entirely too much dyno time has let me get it to where it only occasionally pulls 1-2 degrees.
I race in SCCA Sport Touring FWD which restricts me to bolt on bits, nothing past the TB inlet, and requires i keep a "high flow cat." I plan to progress into a different class later this coming 2015 season which will let me do some porting, completely free as far as intake tract and make the switch to E85.
Still, assuming something like a 17% drive train loss, I'm easily at the 130 crank wheel horsepower.
IIRC, the Skunk2 tuner demo car had head porting done. Not anything excessive, just de shrouding and a small "pocket port" with good results. The head is relatively thin though so there was a noticeable effect on cooling.
Pistons and rods are easy and off the shelf. Cam's are the hard part. CAT Cam's is located in the UK and makes a few options, but isn't readily available. Also, an adjustable cam gear would be a huge help, but with our engine being Chain driven, and it being not easily accessible under the upper plenum no one has yet gone to the effort. Borrowing tricks from my Dad's old motorcycle tuning days, I may look into "slotting" a spare cam gear. The stock valve train is relatively stout and doesn't start to float till pushed past 8K. I daily mine and run it out to 7.5K for more than 30K miles now with no issues.
I'm sure I have more related info in my brain or build but cannot drag it out at the moment lol
Once again... Tyler killin the keyboard with wisdom. Good stuff man. You'll be hearing from me soon.
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