TRS LED Headlight Assembly
One thing I’m noticing with the headlights is when I move the left light cutoff to the right it also travels down....so I have to adjust the height afterwards, doesn’t do this on the passenger side one, I’m weary about cranking it anymore as I’ve read that the adjustment components can fail if manipulated too much.
It should do this on the passenger side, but more likely in the opposite direction.
The adjustment components are basically a loosely mounted bolt and nut. And just most nut & bolt pairs, if you over crank it when its tight, it'll strip the threads. This is made even easier because the nut is likely plastic too. Of course, if you over crank it in the opposite direction, it could simply pop out. That isn't "as bad," but not very easy to fix unless you're comfortable taking headlights apart.
When I lived in San Diego, I had drove a Mitsubishi Mirage (aka Lancer) and swapped out the H4 headlight for a H1+H3 headlight. And for one of the bulbs, one adjuster came completely off, so I had to use a piece of coat hanger wire to hold it in place.
The two adjusters are basically two of three mounting locations that hold the inner headlight to the outer shell. So, it should be easy to imagine that a particular adjuster moves the headlight around an imaginary line that goes through the other two mount points. So, like a triangle, no matter what orientation you put it, at least one will cause it to pivot in both horizontal and vertical directions.
That said, while I'm purely guessing, it should be okay so long as the angle isn't extreme. Though I suppose it could be a tight fit with little room for it to move to begin with. If you feel it getting a little hard to turn, you might be at the limit.
The adjustment components are basically a loosely mounted bolt and nut. And just most nut & bolt pairs, if you over crank it when its tight, it'll strip the threads. This is made even easier because the nut is likely plastic too. Of course, if you over crank it in the opposite direction, it could simply pop out. That isn't "as bad," but not very easy to fix unless you're comfortable taking headlights apart.
When I lived in San Diego, I had drove a Mitsubishi Mirage (aka Lancer) and swapped out the H4 headlight for a H1+H3 headlight. And for one of the bulbs, one adjuster came completely off, so I had to use a piece of coat hanger wire to hold it in place.
The two adjusters are basically two of three mounting locations that hold the inner headlight to the outer shell. So, it should be easy to imagine that a particular adjuster moves the headlight around an imaginary line that goes through the other two mount points. So, like a triangle, no matter what orientation you put it, at least one will cause it to pivot in both horizontal and vertical directions.
That said, while I'm purely guessing, it should be okay so long as the angle isn't extreme. Though I suppose it could be a tight fit with little room for it to move to begin with. If you feel it getting a little hard to turn, you might be at the limit.
Last edited by Goobers; Oct 22, 2020 at 05:46 PM.
I took one of the lamps out to the car and plugged up the adapter harness.
The H4 connector on vehicle harness side plugs in to an adaptor that splits off into two connectors on the headlamp harness. Connectors are nice and have water tight seals.
The DRL plug on car harness side isn’t used. You use the harness they sent to connect and run between both headlights and to the fuse box. It plugs into 30. Remove the 10A fuse that is there and replace with the plug with the kit. Fuse box lid will need modified to fully close.
The last connector is for the turn signals. It just plugs in.
You can only tell so much looking at a headlight lit up at 6pm pointing at your good, but in my opinion they look freakin sick and I can’t wait to install.
edit: after actual install I corrected my wiring walkthrough.
The H4 connector on vehicle harness side plugs in to an adaptor that splits off into two connectors on the headlamp harness. Connectors are nice and have water tight seals.
The DRL plug on car harness side isn’t used. You use the harness they sent to connect and run between both headlights and to the fuse box. It plugs into 30. Remove the 10A fuse that is there and replace with the plug with the kit. Fuse box lid will need modified to fully close.
The last connector is for the turn signals. It just plugs in.
You can only tell so much looking at a headlight lit up at 6pm pointing at your good, but in my opinion they look freakin sick and I can’t wait to install.
edit: after actual install I corrected my wiring walkthrough.
Thanks a million for this info, i will upload pics after i finish this install. Again many thanks.
Can you please send a picture or something that clarifies where the DRL harness plugs in to the fuse box and in to the headlights, i cant seem to find where position 30 is in the fuse box; well i did find it but i dont trust the source because their location 30 isn't headlight related. Also, my headlight set from TRS didnt include any instructions.
Thanks a million for this info, i will upload pics after i finish this install. Again many thanks.
Thanks a million for this info, i will upload pics after i finish this install. Again many thanks.
what’s the purpose of the harness and where does it plug the exterior or interior fuse panel?
TRS headlights for GK5
Also I heard the DRL stays on about 5 mins after you turn off the car, would this merit a yellow top battery upgrade?
or maybe some coilovers? I dunno. Lol.
Last edited by Wht_GK5_Tx; Nov 29, 2021 at 07:23 AM.
do your low beams stay on along with the DRL, because mines do and I my understanding was only the LED strips should stay on.
I had the same thought when i bought mine but, got them anyway. its been 4 months now and no issues so far. they do have warranty and from what ive heard these bulbs are long lasting. If they go bad in 2 -3 years just chalk it up to the price u pay for being cool.
I’ll email them back and see if they can just swap them for a projector kit as I didn’t really want to do that since these were plug and play. I also went back to the listing and they compared them to their fog lights as they are also built in the same and seem to hold up after 5+ years but I wished they had actually be more specific about it. The warranty it’s at 5 years but does it cover the LEDs as they are wear and tear if we can say regardless of it they are pretty good compare to those $300 cheap projector headlights.
So right now i haven’t hooked up the DRL plug bit but, yes you are right only the strips should stay on. Maybe you have your head lights set to auto?
i ended up removing the fuse as they would keep on but regardless of it I ended up returning the headlights back
Well, now you can look at those taillights with the waterfall effect.
Another fun project that will bring frustration, maybe a cut on the finger and then pride. . . Lots of pride.
Last edited by Wht_GK5_Tx; Dec 10, 2021 at 11:01 AM.
But wil definitely be doing a retrofit next year.
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