I'm looking to get a set of Polk MMC6500s to replace my front speakers (I will be amplifying them). Will these fit in the stock speaker mounts without a lot of cutting? Will I need to buy an additional spacer from somewhere, or will the mounting brackets included with the speaker work?

edit: Polk's website lists the mounting depth as follows:


Top Mount


2-11/16" (6.83cm)
Bottom Mount
2-13/16" (7.14cm)

I'm also wondering if I'll need to buy a capacitor. I have a 12" sub that will be powered by an old Soundstream Reference 300sx (250-300 watts), and I plan to find a 100w x2 amp to power the Polks. Is this going to be enough wattage to strain the Fit's battery/alternator?

Thanks

 

Crutchfield's super duper speaker selector tool says that they will fit without modification. There's an adapter mounting bracket that you need to use. You might want to call up Crutchfield and see if you can just buy that bracket from them if you're not buying the speakers from them.

Here are Crutchfield's install details for these speakers in your car:

Installation Details

You're probably going to need to figure out how much amperage your set up will draw. Upgrading your battery would be a good step to take, but unless you're running a huge multi amp system, you might be fine with just upgrading your battery with no cap. I've been running a 2800 watt system in my car with an upgraded the battery and haven't had any problems. I was running a cap with my old set up, but didn't notice much of a difference. I'm probably killing my alternator, but if you're running about 350-400 watts, you should be fine with a better battery.

 

The factory speakers in the Fit have special mounting brackets molded around them. They have two tabs at the bottom that fit into square holes in the door panel, and a spring-loaded tab at the top that holds them into the door. Standard speakers won't drop in without drilling. There actually is an aftermarket speaker bracket that fits the Fit: Scosche's SAHR6, meant for the Ridgeline, has the necessary mounting tabs. However, it doesn't have the spring-loaded tab at the top; you still need to drill three holes in the sheet metal of the door, and screw the bracket down. The Scosche bracket has standard mounting holes for a 6.5" speaker. I also had to trim the plastic ring that surrounds the speaker on the inside of the inner door skin, so that the thicker (and slightly larger diameter) replacement speaker would fit. Besides that, they went in without trouble. Mounting the tweeters behind the original Sport tweeter grilles is another matter, however, requiring considerable modification.

 

I had no idea that drilling would be involved to get after market speakers to fit. I knew that the stock speakers had some kind of weird bracket, but that's it. I really don't want to have to drill anything at all so I may just leave the stock speakers in there.

 

Someone in another thread mentioned somehow removing the actual speakers from the factory brackets and reusing them. The speakers aren't screwed into the factory brackets, I think they're molded in, so I'm not sure how that was done, or how they secured new speakers into the original brackets. If someone made an aftermarket bracket that had the spring clip to lock it into the door panel like the factory speakers do, that would be the ideal option.

 

I think I'm going to take my door panel off sometime soon and have a look. Maybe I can figure out how to get the speaker out without pulling out the factory bracket.

 

that would be me. Yes the factory speaker is MOLDED into the bracket that CLIPS into the door panel. I took my dremel and cut out the factory speaker at the little "legs" that holds the magnet of the speaker together. I then cut out the terminal and soldered those onto the new speakers. I then took the speakers and lined it up to the stock bracket and just put 4 screws in every corner. I then just took the speaker bracket and clipped that back into the car, no new screws to drill and fits like oem.

 

I can see the advantages of cutting out the OEM speaker and re-using the bracket, but doesn't that seem like it's more trouble than it's worth when you can just drive in a few screws instead. I cut a good amount of metal away when I installed my speakers in my Accord because I wanted good speakers where the size wasn't dictated by what would fit without modification. I guess I just didn't want to settle for less.

 

The problem is that its a thin door and anything will hit the window.. I got some 1" spacers yesterday from Best buy and im going to do a test fit tonight on them..

 

Hack solution (0$ spent on mounting spacers etc):

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself, nor FITFREAK.NET take any responsibility for the outcome of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

STEP 1
DESTROY the crappy stock speaker

that is the crappy base model speaker...(I'm not sure if the sport has better ones or not.)

STEP 2
CUT old speaker out of it's mounting bracket like so...



STEP 3
PLACE new speaker inside mounting bracket



STEP 4
SECURE new speaker into old speaker using ZIP TIES!!

note: zip ties on top and bottom of unit.
you probably want to use some sort of double sticky foam tape or something between the bracket and the speaker, it will prevent viberating/rattles.

STEP 5
MOUNT the new speaker into it's new home



STEP 6
now the tricky part, the speaker unit thingy now sticks out too far for the door panel to go back on so it will require a "trimming"

unfortunately the only tool I could find for the job was this knife . I would suggest a tool desined for jobs like this.... such as a dremmel.
after cutting the panel a bit on the inside the speaker will fit perfectly. I put a foam material (similar to the one showed above) around the part I cut away to eliminate rattles etc.

 

Heh, I used zipties to secure the aftermarket speakers in my old Civic. I was really hoping to be able to return everything to stock in the future if the need ever arose, but it looks like I don't have any choice but to cut up the factory bracket. Thanks for the pictures!

 

The sports speakers are actually pretty impressive, do you have pics of the magnet on the base speaker?
The sport has to be a neodynm (sp?) magnet or simular as it is VERY small.
The whole speaker is also VERY light.
I have the stock speakers still running off deck power of my Kenwood X715 and it's darn impressive imo.

 

 

I'll have to get pics of mine when i take them out but I think the sports may have smaller magenets than that. The cones are also plastic of some sort not paper iirc.

 

I did the same trimming of the ring on the inside of the door skin, using a Dremel. The sport speaker cones are thin plastic, though the magnets are similar in size to the ones pictured above. The magnets are really small and weak compared to most decent aftermarket speakers.

 

Im gonna do a writeup with using the 1" rings.. I did a test fit on one of the rear doors lastnight and it worked great..

 

Nice, I did something similar to rushlow. Here's the thread.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...peaker+install