Agreed! Brake or lift and let the rear come around till its where you want than flat to the floor and let it pull you out!

I'm running -2.9 up front and soon to be the same in the rear. I actually am aunning some toe out in the rear, and depending on the tire a few psi higher in the rear. Also FULL stiff dampers in the rear and FULL soft in the front.

 

Full Stiff In Rear And About 2/3 Stiff In Front. As Far As Pressures It Depends On Track And How The Car Is Acting That Day. Lol.

 

Haha yep. Track side conditions and temps count! The toe out on the rear and the front at zero made a BIG difference... We still want more rotation as well LOL Thinking of fabricating a BARSB...BigAssRearSwayBar

 

I Keep Rear At Zero And A Lil Toe Out Up front

 

Haha. Yep definitely different setups then!

 

Big disappointment...

So today I got swift springs, SPC camber bolts and progress rear sway bar installed at a " performance " shop and they took to Belle tres to get my alignment spec done which were zero toe angles and front -1.5.

But Belle tire were able to give me positive 1.3 camber, wow I am impressed, the technician did not know I had camber bolts installed!

My car now has a fricking annoying tapping /clunking noise from the rear and the shop is telling me it takes time for new springs to break in...blah blah.

Big mistakes and malfunction process at all sides and directions!

I have a feeling that the shop does not know why that clunk noise is there and they are talking BS
And the Belle tire technician is...I really don't know what to say.

What do you guys think about the tapping/clunky noise?

It comes when hitting small road imperfections, it feels lime as if the sway bar hitting something...

I am disappointed

Tomorrow will take to Belle tire to align the car correctly, I mean come on guys, for God sake, you can look at the front tires and see clearly a huge POSITIVE camber!!

Help me please, you are my real source of info, I need to know what to tell the shop about the possibilities of noise source

 

Hmmm...

Pics of the rear end? Can you check if the bolts are lose for the sway? Is the bottom spring rubber mount still there and between the spring and the perch?

Get a flash light and a friend, have them sit on the bumper and see if you can see anything making contact...

FYI DO NOT pay for a "4 wheel alignment" on a GE. The rear is NOT adjustable.

Also, if they did not put the camber bolt in the lower hole, you will be lucky to get more than -1.0 to -1.2 camber...

 

did they install rear bushing and washers on correct u got pics of rear tops hats

 

Running -2.3/0 toe. Camber bolts top & bottom.

 

I don't know about whether they installed them correctly, shall I take a picture from underneath the car?

 

Please. As many pics as you can provide might help us figure it out...

 

On a GE? Gotta do this for the ladies car sooner rather than later

 

How to post pux, shall i upload them in a different website?

 

Image codes: image

 

Image codes: image

 

My rear sprigns dont have a piece on top. they simply sit around that short cylinder thing.

The piece that connects to the spring is on the bottom, its rubber.

My guess is they did not reinstall the bottom rubber piec. It has a small push tab that is like a smashed capital T that holds it in the bottom

grip the rear tire with your hands on 9 and 3 oclock. do you hear any rattling or clunking while trying to shake car?

 

#8



My bad, yes there is a spring clip thing on top. The cylinder thing I was talking about is part of the top alignment thing

 

Image codes: image

Image codes: image

Image codes: image

Image codes: image

 

 

I first thought the bottom rubber perch has been placed on the top when it should be on the bottom:




But it looks like in the OEM parts guide there is an upper rubber piece Part number 6 here:


The one that I cannot see is part number 8 from this diagram which is the important one for the bottom:



FIND OUT what happened to the bottom Rubber perch pieces...