Boss 302 comes with red and gray key

After your dealer installs the red key tune, once the red key is used, you are basically changing around 300 parameters in your engine.
What you will feel is this:

1) sharp throttle response
2) remarkable engine braking
3) launch control function enabled
4) lopey idle sound, just like a race car

And other little things that I don't yet feel

 

Man, that is WAY cooler than having to buy a $700 tuner and dial it in with the help of some one else like I'm doing

Man, pretty awesome OEM hot rod right there!

 

That's pretty awesome. I'd leave the grey key at home as a spare.

 

I drive with red key almost always
And yes it an OEM hot rod
Imagine, in the owner manual they tell you how to prepare your car for the track!

But I am really seriously considering taking my Fit to a HPDE.
By the way I still could not find Hawk HP + to fit my 13, some people on the forum were saying, they fit but you have to scarify the metal clip?!

 

Why do I feel like the steering wheel got heavier? Is that expected?

 

Heavier? As in on turn in? What did the toe end up at?... I would expect zero toe and negative camber to feel lighter and "darty" especially at freeway speeds...

 

Darty that one becomes accustomed to. Combined with 205's all is well.

 

Agreed! 100% How that should turn out...

 

Heavier steering ftw. The heavier feel is most likely a result of the tires. More grip and friction and such.

 

Heavier while turning, toe is zero and 0.01 ( almost zero)
I am going to post 2 pictures of my strut bolt ( spc installed)
Spc told me that the tap should be facing the engine to get the most negative camber, I emphasized this point to the 2 belle tires I went to, and guess what! The tap is facing the tires lol

One more observation, both upper and lower bolts on driver side are inserted from the rear, so the head of the bolt is facing the rear of the vehicle, however on the passenger side, they are inserted from the front, so the head of the bolt is facing the front of the vehicle, is this the way they are supposed to be??

Pix taken to the driver front tire from behind /rear of tire:
http://postimg.org/image/cutntlewl/7bdc6da3/

Pix taken to the passenger front tire from the front side:
http://postimg.org/image/pl0521nxv/62279da4/

 

Not sure it matters weather the bolt is inserted from the front or back, but the tab needs to be inboard for neg. camber. Here's our spec's;

 

My alignment

http://postimg.org/image/76z63u4kf/

 

What is the sweet point in between performance and tire wear?
I am now at -0.6

 

Just max it out, anything below 2 degrees will probably not make much difference especially since you LOSE camber when you turn with this suspension. In those situations where your tires are wearing the most you'll be closer to zero anyway.

 

To clarify, by "GAIN camber" you mean that when the suspension compresses positive camber occurs yes?

When I was at -2.0 up front with the softer Swift springs, during hard cornering I was loosing SO much negative camber due to body roll and suspension compression that I had people observing POSITIVE camber on the outside tire

 

Correct, it is confusing now that I re-read it.

I suppose "losing camber" would be more accurate if the camber angle is starting negative and you define "camber" as inherently a negative measurement, which is almost always is. Thanks for pointing that out, I will change the OP

 

Here is what I will do tomorrow, get -1 negative camber so that all the wheels have -1, front and rear, because the rear wheels are already at -1

 

I took to belle tire and told them to direct the camber bolt TAP toward the engine and sure enough they were able to achieve up to -1.5, but I asked for -1 only as a sweet point in between tire wear and handling.

Thnx for your help

 

-1.5 camber will not hurt tire wear.

 

Agreed. I had my "daily" setup at -1.5° for over 2 years and still got near 30K out of my factory Dunflops

Still I bet the -1.0° feels better than the -0.6° did!!! How is the car now?