When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
... I'm not a fan of resurfacing rotors. Removing metal makes them more susceptible to warping. I usually replace pads & rotors together.
A friend in a nearby state owns two automotive service shops and he agrees. I asked him about turning rotors and he replied that he recently sold his lathes. He decided that his customers were best served with new rotors. It just wasn't worth the time and liability messing with resurfacing.
I changed my oil for the first time yesterday and confirmed that a 1-1/4" socket also works perfectly on the filter casing. I did spend $8.99 and bought the Werkzeug drain plug removal tool from Deutsche Auto Parts along with my oil change kit. I see that a flat-bladed screwdriver works too, but I worry about this sort of thing and the Werkzeug tool seats deeply and securely, and works really nice.
Interestingly, with the prescribed 5.7 to 5.8 QT replaced, the dipstick shows only 3/4 full in the crosshatched area with a cold engine after a drive. Weird. I always let my oil drain for several hours to get everything out, so it's pretty much a clean fill.
The oil change was easy and the cleanest I have ever done.
Nice to hear about the socket and oil change success!
I used a flat head screw driver since I was changing to a different type of plug and was going to throw away the original. You were smart to buy the tool. The flat head mangled the plug a bit and got stuck in the plug. Had to use pliers to hold the plug to remove the flat head.
Pretty sure it's 6 quarts with filter change? I used 6 and it's right at the full mark on the dipstick.
.... Pretty sure it's 6 quarts with filter change? I used 6 and it's right at the full mark on the dipstick.
I added a splash of oil this morning, so we'll see what change it makes.
The owner's manual says to check the oil at operating temperature after stopping the engine and letting it sit for a few minutes. If I were to use that technique, my dipstick reading would be even lower because some oil would still be in the head. From the factory, my oil was just above the max mark with a cold engine.
In any case, it'll likely take 6 QT just like yours.
What's amusing is that our EA888 1.8Ts require as much or more engine oil than the 4.0L in my Nissan Frontier which wants 5.7 QT.
I changed my oil for the first time yesterday and confirmed that a 1-1/4" socket also works perfectly on the filter casing. I did spend $8.99 and bought the Werkzeug drain plug removal tool from Deutsche Auto Parts along with my oil change kit. I see that a flat-bladed screwdriver works too, but I worry about this sort of thing and the Werkzeug tool seats deeply and securely, and works really nice.
Interestingly, with the prescribed 5.7 to 5.8 QT replaced, the dipstick shows only 3/4 full in the crosshatched area with a cold engine after a drive. Weird. I always let my oil drain for several hours to get everything out, so it's pretty much a clean fill.
The oil change was easy and the cleanest I have ever done.
sounds good! great job. :D yah, i suppose i could get this tool you mentioned since i like collecting tools.. but i did not have an issue using just a screw driver. i i thought a phillips head fit in there too? cant remember wat i used.. and as GAFIT mentioned, i just used a new plug after draining as it came with the DAP oil change kit.
not sure how different my GTI engine is to your Golf, but i just poured in all 6 liters and it was perfectly on the mark..?
I just took a look at the jugs I put the old factory fill oil in (before I take it to be recycled) and it indeed looks like a good 6 QT to me, so I'm not sure where VW gets the 5.7 to 5.8 QT quantity in the owner's manual.
This makes me feel better, that I haven't messed up somehow. I'll top it up to 6 QT and should be good to go. Thanks for your help guys.
When I was beneath the car changing the oil, I saw this plate on the (5M) transmission. I'm not sure what it covers, but I thought it was cool. How many manufacturers bother to cast their logo into their parts these days?
Wife stopped by VW dealer on way home from work last night. Service adviser said the rotors looked fine. Wife was displeased with his surely attitude and overall lack of care.
She asked to speak with someone else with more automotive knowledge (I'm sure that got him good) and the adviser had a mechanic come out to look. Mechanic immediately agreed that they were in really bad shape given the miles, but warned her that VW is very difficult to get ANY help from with warranty. Said they will only allow him to measure the depth and replace if beyond spec. They will also only change the rotors despite the fact that the pads will have been worn into the grooves.
She has an appointment to bring it back next Monday for them to be measured.
Seeing as how I've never had a problem receiving full warranty service on a Honda, Nissan, or Ford I will just see how this plays out and it will affect my likelihood of purchasing a VW in the future. Ford even repaired the cylinder head gaskets on my modded Superduty because it was a known problem.
I feel like I'm reliving the past I had with a '99 Jetta. Problems with no dealer support.
