When are you doing your first oil change?
The oil life monitor in my Corvette has an algorithm that uses just 2 variables. Oil temperature and engine revolutions. The more you run the engine cold the harder it is on the oil, and the more high-rev driving (like at the track) the harder on the oil.
I wonder if Honda uses the same algorithm? I understand that GM has licensed it to other car makers.
I wonder if Honda uses the same algorithm? I understand that GM has licensed it to other car makers.
Last edited by SilverBullet; Jul 22, 2010 at 04:37 PM.
When I was at the dealer last weekend, I saw the Honda oil and Mobil1 oil stacked next to each other. They have similar packaging, but the definite proof... both say made by Exxonmobil.
Exxon oil is not the same recipe as Mobil, I heard Exxon is more overseas and probably what Honda uses. I was told by the service that they use Mobil oil, but I dont think they know the difference if its Exxon.
Exxon oil is not the same recipe as Mobil, I heard Exxon is more overseas and probably what Honda uses. I was told by the service that they use Mobil oil, but I dont think they know the difference if its Exxon.
from my expierience each honda dealer can use what ever oil they want, at the dealer i worked at for 13 years we used conventional valvoline, and we did and still do oil changes as cheap as 14.95 but average oil change price was 24.95, when i lived in WA. state the dealer there used pennzoil, and one just up the road in seattle used quakerstate, mind you that if a customer asked for honda oil or anything else they got it they just paid more and had to wait longer, we promised oil changes in under 30 min or thier next one was free. i had a customer that would call a day in advance and we would have ams (sp) oil waiting when he pulled in.
also we stocked
honda oil, valvoline con., valvoline syn., valvoline dura, mobil1.
but we went thru about 100 oil filters (genuine honda) a day (weekdays) and almost 200 on a saturday
also we stocked
honda oil, valvoline con., valvoline syn., valvoline dura, mobil1.
but we went thru about 100 oil filters (genuine honda) a day (weekdays) and almost 200 on a saturday
At this point, I think it is more likely that it's the same.
The oil life monitor in my Corvette has an algorithm that uses just 2 variables. Oil temperature and engine revolutions. The more you run the engine cold the harder it is on the oil, and the more high-rev driving (like at the track) the harder on the oil.
I wonder if Honda uses the same algorithm? I understand that GM has licensed it to other car makers.
I wonder if Honda uses the same algorithm? I understand that GM has licensed it to other car makers.
The dealers and mechanics may make up something saying it's a sophisticated complex algorithm and wave their hands around, but really it could be as simple as what I proposed above.
While temperature and all those other factors that might make a scientific difference, I'd think in real life it'd more or less average out and won't yield too much more of a range of results over than just straight fuel consumption monitoring.
The engineers can just alwways use a fudge factor on when to tick over the light and use a worst case to account for any range of difference caused by any other factors.
Last edited by raytseng; Jul 22, 2010 at 07:25 PM.
They do have a different oil, but its probably generic compared to Mobil.
Miles to oil change
Reading this thread is making my head hurt. Please make the pain stop.
It's all pretty simple - you either follow the maintenance minder or you don't. Even though I am a mechanical engineer, I don't pretend to know more about my Fit than the folks who built it. if they come up with an algorithm that tells me when to change my oil, I follow it. They are going to honor the warranty, and they certainly know how the car was designed (tolerances, materials, heat up distortion, etc.).
My first change was at about 10,200 miles. I switched to synthetic 5W-20 (it gets about 20 below zero here in Nebraska and I want fast lubrication during cold starts). i also use a WIX filter, since the newer model Honda filters are made by Honeywell (Fram equivalent) and are pretty lousy. The WIX is an upgrade.
Back in the day, we broke in engines and changed the oil at 600 miles and then every 3K or so. But we also changed points and plugs about every 5K as well and adjusted carburetor floats. A lot has changed since then, including oil quality and oil change intervals. Oh, we also used to run 20W-50, compared to the 5W-20 common today.
It's all pretty simple - you either follow the maintenance minder or you don't. Even though I am a mechanical engineer, I don't pretend to know more about my Fit than the folks who built it. if they come up with an algorithm that tells me when to change my oil, I follow it. They are going to honor the warranty, and they certainly know how the car was designed (tolerances, materials, heat up distortion, etc.).
My first change was at about 10,200 miles. I switched to synthetic 5W-20 (it gets about 20 below zero here in Nebraska and I want fast lubrication during cold starts). i also use a WIX filter, since the newer model Honda filters are made by Honeywell (Fram equivalent) and are pretty lousy. The WIX is an upgrade.
Back in the day, we broke in engines and changed the oil at 600 miles and then every 3K or so. But we also changed points and plugs about every 5K as well and adjusted carburetor floats. A lot has changed since then, including oil quality and oil change intervals. Oh, we also used to run 20W-50, compared to the 5W-20 common today.
Here is the deal. Honda dealerships (and any other dealership) will tell you that you should do everything sooner than what the owners manual states. You can imagine the reasons (more income primarily). But people forget one thing. These cars are designed and tested by actual engineers (you know, the guys/gals who actually know what they are talking about). They design and test these engines and automobiles from bottom to top, and test the crap out of them. They have designed the oil percentage based on engine thermal cycles, accelerator cycles, hours, driving to idling ratios and so on. Honda is who you should listen to when it comes to maintenance on your vehicle, not the dealer.....after all, you bought that Honda for its superior reputation for reliability, and that didn't happen with shady engineering...
Now there are SNAFUS (i.e. MPG display), but now that isn't going to destroy your automobile is it?
Now there are SNAFUS (i.e. MPG display), but now that isn't going to destroy your automobile is it?
Here is the deal. Honda dealerships (and any other dealership) will tell you that you should do everything sooner than what the owners manual states. You can imagine the reasons (more income primarily). But people forget one thing. These cars are designed and tested by actual engineers (you know, the guys/gals who actually know what they are talking about). They design and test these engines and automobiles from bottom to top, and test the crap out of them. They have designed the oil percentage based on engine thermal cycles, accelerator cycles, hours, driving to idling ratios and so on. Honda is who you should listen to when it comes to maintenance on your vehicle, not the dealer.....after all, you bought that Honda for its superior reputation for reliability, and that didn't happen with shady engineering...
Now there are SNAFUS (i.e. MPG display), but now that isn't going to destroy your automobile is it?
Now there are SNAFUS (i.e. MPG display), but now that isn't going to destroy your automobile is it?
Reading this thread is making my head hurt. Please make the pain stop.
It's all pretty simple - you either follow the maintenance minder or you don't. Even though I am a mechanical engineer, I don't pretend to know more about my Fit than the folks who built it. if they come up with an algorithm that tells me when to change my oil, I follow it. They are going to honor the warranty, and they certainly know how the car was designed (tolerances, materials, heat up distortion, etc.).
My first change was at about 10,200 miles. I switched to synthetic 5W-20 (it gets about 20 below zero here in Nebraska and I want fast lubrication during cold starts). i also use a WIX filter, since the newer model Honda filters are made by Honeywell (Fram equivalent) and are pretty lousy. The WIX is an upgrade.
Back in the day, we broke in engines and changed the oil at 600 miles and then every 3K or so. But we also changed points and plugs about every 5K as well and adjusted carburetor floats. A lot has changed since then, including oil quality and oil change intervals. Oh, we also used to run 20W-50, compared to the 5W-20 common today.
It's all pretty simple - you either follow the maintenance minder or you don't. Even though I am a mechanical engineer, I don't pretend to know more about my Fit than the folks who built it. if they come up with an algorithm that tells me when to change my oil, I follow it. They are going to honor the warranty, and they certainly know how the car was designed (tolerances, materials, heat up distortion, etc.).
My first change was at about 10,200 miles. I switched to synthetic 5W-20 (it gets about 20 below zero here in Nebraska and I want fast lubrication during cold starts). i also use a WIX filter, since the newer model Honda filters are made by Honeywell (Fram equivalent) and are pretty lousy. The WIX is an upgrade.
Back in the day, we broke in engines and changed the oil at 600 miles and then every 3K or so. But we also changed points and plugs about every 5K as well and adjusted carburetor floats. A lot has changed since then, including oil quality and oil change intervals. Oh, we also used to run 20W-50, compared to the 5W-20 common today.
08 Honda Fit FF 5W-20 - Bob Is The Oil Guy
Not sure, but check out this guys oil analysis....Looks good for break in.
08 Honda Fit FF 5W-20 - Bob Is The Oil Guy
08 Honda Fit FF 5W-20 - Bob Is The Oil Guy
I don't know! I bet your Honda dealer doesn't know either. So what do we do now?
Just change it when its below 5% with an oil of your choice. I have rebuilt many engines (to include turbine engines) and even turbine engines use synthetic.
I am no engineer though, so the debate goes on. The only true way to see how "good" your oil is, is to have it analyzed and compared to a "standard".
The bottom line here is as long as your oil meets the manuals specifications (to include the API ratings), you wont have any problems.
Premium Protection
Mobil Clean 5000 5W-20
Mobil Clean 5000 5W-20 is a conventional motor oil that delivers proven protection of critical engine parts from lubricant-related failure for 5,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first. It is designed to exceed most engine warranty requirements.
Also Consider:
Superior Protection
Mobil Clean 7500 5W-20
Mobil Clean 7500 5W-20 is a synthetic blend motor oil designed to exceed engine warranty requirements. It delivers guaranteed performance and protection for up to 7,500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. Mobil Clean 7500 has 18 percent more cleaning agents than Mobil Clean 5000 to keep your engine cleaner longer.
Ultimate Protection
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20 fully synthetic motor oil is designed for today's longer service intervals. It provides guaranteed performance and protection for 15,000 miles or one year. Mobil 1 Extended Performance products with the Advanced SuperSyn System contain extra performance additives to help deliver outstanding engine protection.
Mobil 1 5W-20
A fully synthetic motor oil, Mobil 1 5W-20 with SuperSyn Technology exceeds the industry's toughest standards and outperforms all conventional oils. Mobil 1 is recommended by leading car manufacturers as initial fill.
Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy
For improved fuel economy, consider using Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy which is engineered to deliver outstanding engine protection and to offer improved fuel economy in vehicles where SAE 0W-20 or 5W-20 oil is recommended.
Mobil Clean 5000 5W-20
Mobil Clean 5000 5W-20 is a conventional motor oil that delivers proven protection of critical engine parts from lubricant-related failure for 5,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first. It is designed to exceed most engine warranty requirements.
Also Consider:
Superior Protection
Mobil Clean 7500 5W-20
Mobil Clean 7500 5W-20 is a synthetic blend motor oil designed to exceed engine warranty requirements. It delivers guaranteed performance and protection for up to 7,500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. Mobil Clean 7500 has 18 percent more cleaning agents than Mobil Clean 5000 to keep your engine cleaner longer.
Ultimate Protection
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20 fully synthetic motor oil is designed for today's longer service intervals. It provides guaranteed performance and protection for 15,000 miles or one year. Mobil 1 Extended Performance products with the Advanced SuperSyn System contain extra performance additives to help deliver outstanding engine protection.
Mobil 1 5W-20
A fully synthetic motor oil, Mobil 1 5W-20 with SuperSyn Technology exceeds the industry's toughest standards and outperforms all conventional oils. Mobil 1 is recommended by leading car manufacturers as initial fill.
Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy
For improved fuel economy, consider using Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy which is engineered to deliver outstanding engine protection and to offer improved fuel economy in vehicles where SAE 0W-20 or 5W-20 oil is recommended.
I don't know! I bet your Honda dealer doesn't know either. So what do we do now?
Just change it when its below 5% with an oil of your choice. I have rebuilt many engines (to include turbine engines) and even turbine engines use synthetic.
I am no engineer though, so the debate goes on. The only true way to see how "good" your oil is, is to have it analyzed and compared to a "standard".
The bottom line here is as long as your oil meets the manuals specifications (to include the API ratings), you wont have any problems.
Just change it when its below 5% with an oil of your choice. I have rebuilt many engines (to include turbine engines) and even turbine engines use synthetic.
I am no engineer though, so the debate goes on. The only true way to see how "good" your oil is, is to have it analyzed and compared to a "standard".
The bottom line here is as long as your oil meets the manuals specifications (to include the API ratings), you wont have any problems.
FF in the honda fit is NOT mobil 1, my memory of cold starts at -14 F tell me it is DINO oil with a crack-a-lac amount of moly.
What oil to use:
This is topic is more charged than religion or male circumcision, just buy the cheapest name brand syn if you are worried about oil being in there too long.
I get QT Syn from wallys.
What oil to use:
This is topic is more charged than religion or male circumcision, just buy the cheapest name brand syn if you are worried about oil being in there too long.
I get QT Syn from wallys.
From all that I've found Honda does not use any special oil on the first fill out of the factory. 5W20 dino. Who's is it, who knows. We all agree they make first class engines and why second guess them on it, or their recommendations.
Did find this:

The AO1 is the most sought after Honda oil filter. Who's is it, who knows. Why shouldn't I use it, no reason what-so-ever.
A lot of this discussion concerns how 'we feel' about doing things. That's okay, however, it's got little to do with the mechanics of the engine. It ain't really about how we feel, it's a whole lot more objective than that. That's why their are engineers in the first place - to make those hard-ass objective decisions for a subjective world. The marketers have tapped into our subjectivity and make a huge amount of $$'s off us touting their products. That's okay as well. Just don't get the two confused, that's all.
The subjectivity keeps this forum alive and we all seem to enjoy a good discussion, so that's okay too.
K_C_
peacandlove baby
Did find this:

The AO1 is the most sought after Honda oil filter. Who's is it, who knows. Why shouldn't I use it, no reason what-so-ever.
A lot of this discussion concerns how 'we feel' about doing things. That's okay, however, it's got little to do with the mechanics of the engine. It ain't really about how we feel, it's a whole lot more objective than that. That's why their are engineers in the first place - to make those hard-ass objective decisions for a subjective world. The marketers have tapped into our subjectivity and make a huge amount of $$'s off us touting their products. That's okay as well. Just don't get the two confused, that's all.
The subjectivity keeps this forum alive and we all seem to enjoy a good discussion, so that's okay too.
K_C_
peacandlove baby
That's most unusual. Would have to think they're after your money to contradict what is clearly stated in your owners manual.
K_C_
K_C_
No doubt about that. What stealership doesn't want your money?


