I've learned a bit here at FF, and saved myself some hassle and money with other instructables, so I figured I would document my driver's window swap.

In my case, I just replaced whole driver's door, and I was too cheap to pay someone to re-tint the new window. I also wanted an exact match to my existing tint, and I didn't want to scratch the tinted glass going into the new door!

This write-up assumes you are already fairly familiar with removing the driver's/passenger's front door panels, and with disconnecting the power window controls, etc.

My freshly-replaced 2009 fit driver's door with un-tinted glass...GOTTA FIX!!!

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:
1)Door panel pull or flat putty knife
2)Phillips Head Screwdriver
3)Socket set with extension
4)Soapy water
5)A friend, if applicable

I've tried to focus on TINTED glass and preventing any scratches to the tint, so some steps will be a bit easier with non tinted glass (such as the piece I remove in step 1 below).

 

Step One: Get that old #*@^% window outta' here!

Assuming you've had some experience in door panel removal, simply unscrew the retaining screw in your driver's door latch/handle. It's a single screw behind the release handle. There is one more screw hidden under the "arm rest"/window switch panel. You must pull the front piece off and be careful not to break off the plastic hook at the rear (Fig1):

The screw is easy to see once this panel is off. Simply unscrew and save for reassembly.

Next, use a panel popper or putty knife to pry the lower panel away from door, and pop the rivets gently, from bottom to top. Fish the door release handle through the door panel (or remove the handle properly via the release clamps, which is a major hassle).

Gently pull the panel from the door, and release the plug for the power windows.

Keep the door panel nearby, as you'll need to use the window switch several times during this installation! (Yes, if you're wondering, you can remove the window switch from the door panel and keep it plugged in during this process. It is a major PITA to repair it if you strip the little screw sockets, however, and it is far easier to just keep it on the door panel, in spite of the panel being bulky.)

Now that we have the door panel off, it's up to you to salvage the plastic insulator that's glued to the inner door with the world's nastiest gunk. I suggest being VERY careful here, and having some rubber gloves, approximately 500 clean pairs.

Peel the insulator away from the door. If you're savvy, you can roll it up like a poster without completely removing it, then unroll it when the job is being completed...BE WARNED - that gooey adhesive will get all over your hairy arms, your new Justin Beiber tour shirt, and your wife's (or mom's) favorite sofa if you are not VIGILENT in keeping it wiped-up/off your hands.

Once the insulating plastic is out of your way, plug the window switch back in. (You did wipe the goop off your hands before you grabbed the door panel, right?) Flip the key on to power-up your windows, and unroll the window partially, until the two regulator/window screws are aligned as shown in...
FIG 2:

LOOSEN THESE TWO BOLTS. DO NOT REMOVE YET!

NOTE: Be sure to cut the ignition switch back off each time you are done using power window switch. We don't want to burn-out the ignition of the car to save $40 in labor on this window job. Leaving the ignition on will also drain your battery, and you'll be forced to call your buddy for a jump start...This favor will undoubtedly result in YOU being asked to return the favor by painting his entire living room next Summer. Avoid this at all costs.

With the window in the same spot, it's time to pull the entire gasket/track for the window out. Be careful not to pry from the molded corners, but from the vertical strips, as in the following images:



THEN POOF!

Out comes the whole thing!

Next, leaving the window in same spot, remove the two bolts from the regulator completely and save them for the new glass:


Now, it's time to pull the old window out. NOTE, it only fits out of the frame 1 way. Tilt the glass as pictured, and pull up as shown:



Now, the glass is removed, and we need to lower the regulator by powering up the window switch again, and rolling DOWN the regulator as shown below. This will prevent the tint from scraping against the regulator and motor cables, as well as allow a clean path to drop the new glass in USING THE SAME, TILTED POSITION...see step 2 in next post below "Re-installing glass." (OH! Don't forget to cut off the ignition switch after...Yeah? You got it? Okay...)



Be sure to lower regulator, or you'll scratch the tint! Note it is about even with the impact beam in the door...(With no tint, you can skip this step and proceed to the remainder of step 2...)

 

STEP 2, Install the tinted glass!

We're through with most of the hard stuff...now we move on to the impossible - installing the tinted glass without scratching the window film.

IT REALLY HELPS TO HAVE A FRIEND HERE. If you're like me, and have no friends, you can use a piece of cloth or an old wife beater to cover the metal edge of the door frame/window sill.

Replace the glass at the exact angle you removed the old piece. ***BE SURE TO PUSH THE GLASS TOWARD THE OUTSIDE OF CAR, as your friend guides it slowly downward. In other words, you want the outer piece of the glass pressed outward, so the tint film on the inside does not scrape the metal door frame its whole way down.

Once you and your friend (or you) manage to place the glass properly, bolt-in the LEFT regulator/glass bolt only, and tighten it FINGER TIGHT ONLY. (You can't reach the right one yet, but don't fret.)

Next, you guessed it, power-up the window, and BEING CERTAIN YOU KEEP the tint side PRESSED AWAY FROM THE SHARP METAL, roll the window up until the RIGHT regulator bolt is aligned with the access hole from before. Now, install the RIGHT bolt, and TIGHTEN THE RIGHT AND LEFT BOLTS COMPLETELY.

Now comes the hardest part ever, but I've done this for you 1st, so it's gonna be a BREEZE!

See step 3: Final installation of the glass and window gasket/track.

 

STEP 3: Get the gasket back in (without kicking your dog, kid, or grandma in the crotch due to mental breakdown)

Okay, there are probably 1 ways to do this right, but I'm gonna' show you the only way. First, reinstall the SHORTER vertical piece, which runs down by the driver's side mirror. This will center the glass properly, and as important, it lines-up the top of the gasket with top of door frame.

HINT: Lube this thing up with a bit of soapy water at the tip. TRUST ME! Save yourself the agony of trying to cram it there in dry (take it from a married man).

Guide the gasket into the channel, ensuring the glass is sandwiched properly in the rubber frame:

1st part of gasket is properly installed. Now comes the urge to kill baby seals (unless you lube the long section next, and ONLY at the tip).

Lube the long, vertical section at the lower tip only. Too high up, and your hand will slip all over the rubber and you'll embarrass yourself in front of the crowd that's now gathered to marvel at your handywork. Slip the long section down, just as you did with the shorter one. IT's gonna stop about 4 inches in, and you're going to think, "I should have let someone else do this!" Don't panic, now is when the crowd is gonna shit themselves at your ingenuity...

Even though the gasket is hanging out all half-ass, you can still start to install it up the vertical frame:

Now, you can roll the window up a couple of inches, and then push the gasket back down as you ROLL THE WINDOW GENTLY BACK DOWN IN SHORT INCREMENTS:

Rolled-up a bit...


Pushed down a bit...

Pretty soon, the top of the gasket will be aligned perfectly, and you simply pop it up into the frame, and then roll the power window up and down several times to seat the gasket tightly.

YOU PRETTY MUCH JUST REPLACED YOUR WINDOW DUDE! AWESOME!

The final steps are reverse of the removal of the door liner plastic and door panel.

Re-seal the plastic.
Place the door panel back in by hooking the top over the door frame/window sill.
Pop the rivets back into place. (BE SURE THEY'RE LINED-UP CORRECTLY!)
Screw the door handle screw and door release screw back in, and pop the door handle cover back on.
IF REQUIRED: Re-install the Vent Visor (TM) rain guard.
Clean the glass with AMMONIA-FREE/tint-safe window cleaner.


Marvel in your studliness:




Next instructable = "Let's rip out the rear wiper and install a rearview camera, ON DRUGS!"

 

Nice writeup and good job.

HINT: Lube this thing up with a bit of soapy water at the tip. TRUST ME! Save yourself the agony of trying to cram it there in dry (take it from a married man)..... never try skipping the foreplay.

 

With all due respect to the wonderful spirit, skill and results created by many of the very talented DIY Fit Owners, there are a great percentage of these "How To" posts, that serve only to instruct me, that if I'm ever in a similar situation, I need to, Step One: Pay somebody to do that for me.

 

Lol. Yes, I could've paid to have that done for me. It's only a forty-minute job if you stop for pictures. I was more concerned with keeping the tint scratch-free and matching.

Plus, it was a great excuse to get out of the house on a Sunday, and the feeling of doing it by yourself is often far more tingly than having someone do it for you.