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Would seem that a head / valve train would be a little less expensive versus whole engine.
Engine delivered to me was 550AUD / 425USD. (could have even found something cheaper) So wasnt that expensive. I dont trust a replaced head and headgasket either. Given I did the clutch too, removing the engine wasnt too much drama.
Checked my plugs today after 2800 miles since I had things apart to adjust the valves. All four plugs were still tight after using blue thread locker. The plugs were hard to to rotate so I didn't remove any of them. I just checked the plugs for tightness and they were all good. No loose plugs. The blue thread locker does make the plugs harder to rotate but that's not a real problem since they last 100 thousand miles. If you're removing plugs treated with blue thread locker you may want to lubricate the threads as you remove them to ease them out of the head. Best of luck.
2009 Sport 66k miles. Only # 2 plug loose. The rest were tight. Also # 4 has oil on plug. Plan to change all plugs. Do you think # 2 coil still good?
Car drove fine with 33mpg. 
Didn't know about this spark plug issue until researching it today after my cylinder blew during the start of a road trip. Ended up towing my vehicle to the Honda dealership and took a different car on the road trip. Pretty much looking for a new car at the worst possible time because the costs of engine replacement or repair are too high, and I would still be having a spark plug issue in the future.
Didn't know about this spark plug issue until researching it today after my cylinder blew during the start of a road trip. Ended up towing my vehicle to the Honda dealership and took a different car on the road trip. Pretty much looking for a new car at the worst possible time because the costs of engine replacement or repair are too high, and I would still be having a spark plug issue in the future.
The engine doesn’t need to be replaced, the repair can be completed in an hour or two max by a competent mechanic and maybe $100-$200 worth of parts. You just need an insert put in the spark plug hole, new plugs and a new coil I got a coil for $30.00 from a local auto parts store made by spectra no issues. The job is basically the same as replacing the plugs plus installing the insert. Call around, dealerships are the worst place to go try a smaller local shop that specializes in imports.
2009 Sport 66k miles. Only # 2 plug loose. The rest were tight. Also # 4 has oil on plug. Plan to change all plugs. Do you think # 2 coil still good?
Car drove fine with 33mpg. 
thats not oil on the coil, it’s burnt from the plug being so loose. If the car still runs with no misfires it will be fine, just make sure to check your plug once in awhile as it will come loose again.
I was able to get the dealership to cover 80% of the repair. As I did not have another vehicle at the time of this happening, and was unsure of the cost of getting repairs done, I ordered a new vehicle to replace the Fit. I ended up trading in my repaired Fit a couple days ago and got a 2022 Honda CR-V Hybrid.
I was able to get the dealership to cover 80% of the repair. As I did not have another vehicle at the time of this happening, and was unsure of the cost of getting repairs done, I ordered a new vehicle to replace the Fit. I ended up trading in my repaired Fit a couple days ago and got a 2022 Honda CR-V Hybrid.
Hope that puts you on a better track. Come around some time, and let use know how the CR-V is working out.
2013 Jazz has been in family since new, serviced only by Honda dealers up to 100,000km, then 2 independents.
In 2018 plugs were replaced at 74,000km by Honda dealer with the NGK iridiums- IZFR6K13.
58,000km later (about 35,000miles) same symptoms as in post 116 by Dxs on this thread. Flapping sound on highway, engine light, lost power.
Plug 2 found loose, plug 3 ejected after unscrewing itself. Coil destroyed, compression low on cylinder 3. Replacement engine and installation cost Aus$4400 , then towing costs on top!
Worst part is repairing mechanic said plug washer was not completely crushed, raising doubt over correct tensioning at plug replacement by Honda dealer.
Reading all the posts here I'm pretty annoyed that this was a known issue in the 'Honda World' with that Honda Tech article posted in 2016 (ATS 160714) but something still went wrong!
Before I searched online I was surprised in discussion with local Honda mechanic (not at dealer who replaced plugs)- he confirmed loose plugs on the 1.5L GE is not unusual, and said they check by touching the top of the coil with engine running - if you can feel a small vibration it indicates a loose plug which they then 'Nip up'.
Last service at a small independent place in Sydney was only 3000km (1800 miles) before the plug came out. After service the car had a lot of driving over hilly areas down the coast, then 3 weeks driving up and down hills in Tasmania before engine failed. Carrying a good load of camping gear too! Maybe more load on the engine than it usually had running around Sydney?
Is it possible that there were NO significant symptoms at the last service to get the mechanics attention, and the plugs unwound a lot in 3,000km ??
Outside of our specific generation of Fit and some ford engines a few years back: "For those who have Ford trucks from this era, the offending engines are the 3-valve 5.4-liter from 2004 to 2007, the 3-valve 4.6-liter from 2005 to 2007, and the 3-valve 6.8-liter from 2005 to 2007." May 31, 2011
I dont know of other ones that "spit spark plugs like sunflower seeds" - Fordproblems.
The mechanic should have noticed some rough running, but I wouldn't expect them to think plugs were falling out. Even our camp here is divided regarding the legitimacy of the problem.
That tapping method mentioned would make more sense if it was done checking for completely loose plugs.. or a coil that's backing out. I think I'd need a demonstration to determine if that's a viable method.
Recommendations vary. From what I read, sludge is from never changing your oil, sitting cold for long interval/s. Got the truck used, an 09 with 45k miles purchased ~3 years back
bleh. its had regular oil changes every 3-5k with full synthetic and premium oil filters since.
Well, I think the timing is off. got bad idle vibration, ect. Cam gear marks aren't lining up perfectly, but it is a chain so I dont know how close they should be. regardless, I'm replacing the chain, tensioners and cam gears with a ~$250 kit. the cover will come off and I'll wipe it clean, then do the same with the oil pan, check the oil pump screen for clogs. Follow with a single flush with liquimoly (spelling?) sludge cleaner and another oil change.
others say to use this or that, kerosene, diesel, atf, other brands, or just reduce oil change intervals.
I think the timing stuff just gets a oil dip down by the crank and carries the lube up, not enough to really clear it out. Best guess anyways, given how much worse that section is vs the cam shafts, valves n such which get a constant drip.
[QUOTE=Pyts;1478778] abridged.
The mechanic should have noticed some rough running, but I wouldn't expect them to think plugs were falling out. Even our camp here is divided regarding the legitimacy of the problem.
Thanks for that Pyts. I was thinking similar- that a little rough running may not get too much attention if the owner didn't complain about it. My Son has been using the car for a few years and he is not very mechanically minded, might not think much of a little rough running.
But I take it that you think 1,800miles / 3,000km from a little rough running to unscrewed completely is possible?
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