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The braided line instead of cheap rubber is a very nice visual upgrade as well!
Looking great!
Thanks!
Originally Posted by marmaladedad
The garnish looks great! Definitely worth the work you put in.
I am loving the braided lines as well. They look so beefy in our little engine compartment. I usually see the catch can modifications on the GK - do the GE suffer from the same problems?
Thanks for the compliments!
Unfortunately our engines are prone to the same fouling of the backside of the valves. I plan on keeping the car as long as possible, and realized my car burns a bit of oil....so I figured Id do what I can to try to keep the motor healthy, especially given the low cost and simple installation of a catch can setup.
Im not and expert, or even a mechanic ....but if you are considering one and have any questions on mounting or designs, lmk as I analyzed different catch cans and pondered a mounting location for like 2 months, lol. I feel I chose the optimal design, can mods and location for our cars, which also allows the catch can to be used with the OE intake box in place. The only concern, is as I stated above, the possiblity of the lines drooping onto the radiator hose. They have about 2 inches of clearance now, but Im probably going to make a little bracket that comes off the radiator bolt nearby for peace of mind.
Last edited by eulogy; 11-10-2018 at 01:13 PM.
Reason: edited erronous info regarding fuel
Thanks for the compliments!
Unfortunately our engines are prone to the same fouling of the backside of the valves, as the fuel injectors are below them. I plan on keeping the car as long as possible, and realized my car burns a bit of oil....so I figured Id do what I can to try to keep the motor healthy, especially given the low cost and simple installation of a catch can setup.
Im not and expert, or even a mechanic ....but if you are considering one and have any questions on mounting or designs, lmk as I analyzed different catch cans and pondered a mounting location for like 2 months, lol. I feel I chose the optimal design, can mods and location for our cars, which also allows the catch can to be used with the OE intake box in place. The only concern, is as I stated above, the possiblity of the lines drooping onto the radiator hose. They have about 2 inches of clearance now, but Im probably going to make a little bracket that comes off the radiator bolt nearby for peace of mind.
Sure! I am definitely interested. I always said I would not tinker with this car but everyone's ideas are so good that I cannot help but try it myself.
Got my $8 ebay cargo net in. definitely cheapy material...thin net and plastic clips, but going to see how it holds up and if it helps keep stuff from flying all over the trunk. if the idea works for me but the material doesnt, Ill considered making one out of paracord...but I really dont put much back there most of the time.
Well I guess i will be ordering a generic heater blower motor ($30) and resistor ($6) from ebay, as mine crapped out. Stuck with only level 4 and "off" on the heater control..which is better than no function. I was going to re solder the resistor, but after seeing how inexpensive the generic parts are Ive decided to give them a try. They have a year warranty, so hopefully they are ok as I dont want to spend $200 for genuine honda parts.
Brakes have finally bedded in. Nice stopping power. wish the rear brakes did more work than they do. cleaned, sanded and adjusted them when i did the fronts and full bleed, but from what i gather from FF, they dont seem to do much for anyone.
Debating on changing the look of the car with tint and black base model headlights. I like the clear glasshouse effect too though. Guess Ill think about it some more.
I took out my LED headlights and foglights. Got kind of tired of the white flooded lights. Looks clean and white, but kept getting flashes from people that thought i had my brights on also. High beams were non existent. went to ebay white halogens in the headlights and yellow halogen fogs. Kinda missed the "warm" old school light look. I forgot i also need to replace my foglights as they both have cracked lenses.
found another toy at walmart...couldnt resist. funny because i just recently started watching the whole initial d series online that i never could afford to buy when i was younger.
tanabe en route. had been considering a fart can for awhile but didnt want one bad enough to pay $300+. came across a great deal so i pulled the trigger. not a huge fan of exhausts on automatics...but hopefully this will be subtle enough sound wise. i was initially looking for an hks silent, but realized a tanabe will look better on my car since it has on almost oe+ look to it, and plan on running stock wheels most of the time.
after all the fuss with installing my phone mount and torque app, i uninstalled it. i kept needing to restart the phone due to cold temps overnight. i might reinstall it when temps warm up. i am thinking about installing an led in my front lower console pocket. seems so dark down there now.
something else i have been thinking about is a new grill. i hate cleaning all the holes in the oe grill. the mugen is clean but so damn expensive. im considering a mugen replica for 1/3rd the price (~$130), but not sure how cheap it will look. and then theres the "sport" grill...which seems less sporty to me. i thought i could cut out the bars in the middle and leave the "H" emblem. not sure if it will look ok...and its still almost $200. then theres the idea of cutting out the entire center of an oe grill. idk if i would sand it smooth n leave it black or paint it red. i suppose i need to see exaclty what would be exposed behind the grill and if it will end up having a hacked look.
overall car has been good. planning on changing the oil and measuring/examining the catchcan contents next month. i was concerned as i was burning a bit of oil...but realized it was from vtec'ing the hell out of my car after the intake install. the last month or so i have been driving normally and oil consumption has drastically reduced. it still is burning a bit but theres a huge difference in blowby in vtec apparently.
Install went through without any hangups. I bypassed my regular socket wrench and went straight at the springbolts with my harbor freight breaker bar (one of the best $10 I ever spent btw). They didnt give me a problem but judging from the moderate force needed they probably were too tight for the regular socket wrench. I was making it harder than I needed to by trying to pry the hangers off with a screwdriver (memories of my scion exhaust) but all I needed to do was pull with my hands and off slid the old muffler, with a bit of wd40 as lube of course.
I always wanted a Tanabe exhaust. Now I got one! Only problem now is I feel a bit old to be having noises come from my muffler, lol. Sound wise its.... borderline....too loud for me. The sound has a real nice tone, Im just use to having no noise coming from the back of my car. Ill give it a few days to break in before I give an official opinion. I got a few minor cloud puffs and gurgles that are subsiding as the packing burns in. Im glad I saw the paper in the box reminding me its ok for it to smoke during break in, otherwise I probably would have freaked out. Cosmetically, I really like it.
mine has a baby bird chirp from the passenger side dash...that usually happens in cold weather going over random road imperfections. ive reached under the dash and tried wiggling different things to replicate the sound but cant track it down. i plan to go under there with my socket wrench and give every nut i see a tightening, as the sound is really annoying.
give a heads up if you track your noise down and ill do the same!
Originally Posted by eulogy
ok, so a couple of weeks ago my blower motor resistor went out, leaving me with "off" and "4" available settings on my climate control....which is the result of a failing blower motor. i stuck my hand in the cavity where the blower motor filter resides, and attempted to spin the motor by hand since i have read threads that if its going bad it should be hard to turn. it spun seemingly normal, so i resoldered the resistor (without using any additional solder) to see if it would fail again. it did.
i ordered a new resistor and motor (ebay aftermarket items, $35 combined), but have been using my heater on high in the mean time. so yesterday when driving to work i got a few low sounding buzzes from the blower motor, which tells me it really is going bad. then after work, after i started my car and warmed it up a minute, sitting in the parking lot idling... i turned the heater on high speed and got about four consecutive "baby bird chirps"!
my plan was to try to tighten every bolt and nut i could under the dash when i change the blower motor out later this week, in an attempt to rid myself of the haunting intermittent chirping i have been experiencing the past 9 months. im convinced it has been the blower motor this whole time thanks to it chirping while i was parked last night. weird thing is it never chirped before while idling, it was always while i was driving so i was sure that it was a loose dashboard problem.
i should have the resistor and blower motor changed this week, ill confirm my findings here after driving for a few days.
Last edited by eulogy; 12-30-2018 at 12:59 PM.
Reason: edited quote to reflect correct information ...blower motor "resistor" to "filter"
Blower Motor, Resistor, Wiper Stalk Fail, Red Front Emblem
Blower Motor & Resistor
Replaced my blower motor and resistor last night. Blows about twice the air it did before. Old motor wasnt super tight, but did have a slight bit more resistance than the new one. Was enough to reduce airflow and pop resistor i suppose.
Blower motor has funky star screws that also accept a flathead screwdriver. 3 screws and unplug it and it drops out the bottom of dash. Resistor can be pita, use a stubby screwdriver on bottom screw through the bottom side of dash....and regular length driver on top screw through glove box opening. resistor plug is hard to remove while installed...i removed resistor first then unplugged.
Total cost was about $35 shipped using ebay parts. total cost for oem would have been $300 shipped with current prices online.
Total time = 30 minutes in the dark and 15 degree weather.
OEM Part Numbers:
Motor # 79310-TF0-G01
Resistor # 79335-TF0-G01
Aftermarket on Left.....OEM on Right
Main visual difference is oem has copper contact and aftermarket has silver colored contact (the one that dislocates and causes it to "fail") also coils inside have bit different arrangement and cage has more holes on OEM.
Replica Type R Front Badge
Going to try this out on the front. Got a replica because I didnt want to spend money for a "real" one because i wanted to ensure i liked the look . Wasnt in a rush to replace the rear since my garnish is red and it would be less noticable. If it doesnt hold up and i like the look, ill consider real ones. Overall impression it seems decent...aside from the chrome "H" has some pitting on the left side under certain light. Probably not noticeable when on the car. ill install it after the snow stops.
Last edited by eulogy; 01-01-2019 at 07:11 PM.
Reason: add info and last pic
10-25-2018, 12:48 PM
